Pt/Pd printing out

[Stephen Samuels]

Have read Mike Ware's exposition on his alternative approach to pt/pd printing - ie printing out - but have not found/read other users' experiences of the method. Is it generally ignored or are users of this method given to printing rather than writing?

Any views would be appreciated before I take the plunge.

 

[photomc]

Good day Stephen, over on the other side of the pond I think most use the Ziatype POP process from Bostick and Sullivan. Not exactly like the Ware method, but quite similar. Seem to recall some that use the Ware method, but can't recall where I read it now.

I found it a nice introduction, but it was not as easy as the DOP process for Pt/Pd IMO.

 

[nze]

Mike ware approach of the process is as good as ziatype but in opposite to Sullivan which keep to the POP part of his process (He talk of the DOP also but present it as a POP) MW talk also of the DOP part of his process. If you keep The RH @70% you wont need any developer but if you go under you'll need some for the Ware version. Sullivan method is less sensitive to humidity and you can go down to 50% as lithium palladium seems to absorb more humidity than ammonium salt.

What ever you MW is really a good and scientific reading. And when I want to make similar seris in Ziatype I use his Humidifing method to keep my Ziatype paper at the same RH to obtain the same Speeds and tone.


I think that many user of the ware just use both method depending on the tone they want. I prefer to keep both this process POP . Even if some great tone can be achieve if you dry them well and develop ad DOP.

Ware/sullivan/ Willis/pizzigheli are all good but you should choose your modus operandi to obtain perfect image.

Platinum printing an be boggling if you start playing with all the parameter so keep in mind to change only one parameter at time.

Best

 

[Ian Leake]

The MW process is very straightforward and produces cleaner prints than the B&S process (i.e. no nasty black spots). But, and it's a big but, you've got to have close control of the humidity of your coated paper (which is not necessarily the same as the room humidity). With accurate humidity control you can achieve pretty much any tone you want between blue/black to very warm with pretty much any combination of Pt/Pd.

His approach for clearing prints works very, very well for either process.

As you're in London, Stephen, you're welcome to pop over some time and see some prints made with both processes if you like.

 

[Stephen Samuels]

Thanks everyone. I just want to be sure I make the right choice before jumping in with both feet (and my wallet!)

 

[Loris Medici]

...If you keep The RH @70% you wont need any developer but if you go under you'll need some for the Ware version. Sullivan method is less sensitive to humidity and you can go down to 50% as lithium palladium seems to absorb more humidity than ammonium salt....

In any case adding few drops of glycerin (2 is good to start with) per 1 ml of coating solution will help much in keeping moisure in paper - hence the print out ability of the sensitizer - even in the driest conditions. You can get interesting colors too... (This works for POP Pd and also for Argyrotypes.)

Regards,
Loris.