PSA - 120 to 35mm adapters

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Ariston

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I never bought these because people were charging $20 for something so small, printed with FREE plans available online. Well, this is a PSA that someone is selling these for $3.50 plus $3.50 shipping right now, if you want to pick them up at the auction site. I did.
 

CMoore

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I never bought these because people were charging $20 for something so small, printed with FREE plans available online. Well, this is a PSA that someone is selling these for $3.50 plus $3.50 shipping right now, if you want to pick them up at the auction site. I did.
Not much of a PSA if you do not supply any info.......:wondering:
 

BrianShaw

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I actually appreciate the PSA and found what you are talking about in about 4.7 seconds.
 

MattKing

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I had to struggle to guess the meaning of "PSA"!
I eventually figured it out - "Public Service Announcement".
IMHO, it is problematic to use an acronym that begins with "P" and ends with "A". :blink:
 

pentaxuser

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Looks neat. Will this work with any 120 camera? I ask because I take it you place both ends on the 35mm cassette and the ends are exactly the same size as the 120 spool ends so the camera "thinks" it a 120 spool in it but will there be a problem with the more sophisticated 120 cameras like the 645N which sets the distance it makes the film travel for each frame and then rewinds at 16 frames?

It may be that the adaptor only works with fully manual 120 cameras like the old folders but with those how do you tell when you have wound on to the next frame? The window is set for 120 backing paper only

I may have made several wrong assumptions here and I am looking to be educated so I'd be grateful for a "lesson " in how this adaptor works

Thanks

pentaxuser
 
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Ariston

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Looks neat. Will this work with any 120 camera? I ask because I take it you place both ends on the 35mm cassette and the ends are exactly the same size as the 120 spool ends so the camera "thinks" it a 120 spool in it but will there be a problem with the more sophisticated 120 cameras like the 645N which sets the distance it makes the film travel for each frame and then rewinds at 16 frames?

It may be that the adaptor only works with fully manual 120 cameras like the old folders but with those how do you tell when you have wound on to the next frame? The window is set for 120 backing paper only

I may have made several wrong assumptions here and I am looking to be educated so I'd be grateful for a "lesson " in how this adaptor works

Thanks

pentaxuser
I made some adapters myself shaving down some 120 spools and it worked fine in my RB back - but the RB back is automatic and does not use a window. I'm not sure how you would use it in an old folder or anything that uses windows - though you may just pay attention to how many turns it takes your normal 120 film to advance and guess long. I expect it to work fine in my Hasselblad back.

I have never used a 645N, but I would check Youtube. There are lots of videos of people using these adapters for cheap 35mm panoramics. A 645 camera is not going to give you as much of a panorama view, anyway.

When you are finished (at least for my cameras), you have to put the back into a dark bag and manually rewind the film back into its cartridge. I had no issues whatsoever, and I enjoyed the look of the images with the sprocket holes exposed.
 
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Ariston

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Well I had no idea what you were talking about either, helps to be more specific

Do you mean these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marvellous...rds=35mm+to+120+adapter&qid=1572544257&sr=8-1

Loads if you google them on ebay and amazon
Yes, but I had not seen them below $20 in the states until now.

This is a good price - I missed this post. Thanks for sharing! I am going to put the link in this thread, too.

Here is a good option suggested by another Photrio user:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35mm-to-12...0?hash=item3aef8562b6:g:chIAAOSwol5YzsJw#rwid
 
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Ariston

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By the way, I have read that you need to use 220 backs because 35mm film has no paper backing. I just stopped down my camera to f16 and had no sharpness issues. I am not sure how wide you can open you aperture, but you certainly don't HAVE to have a 220 back.
 

MattKing

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By the way, I have read that you need to use 220 backs because 35mm film has no paper backing.
Not an issue.
The image is focused to the front of the film, not the back of the film.
The pressure plate on a 220 back applies slightly more pressure to the back of the film, but the plane of focus is determined by the film gate, not the pressure plate.
 

abruzzi

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Thanks for the link.

Now for a takeup reel...

I think normally, you'd buy two kits, and use a spent 35mm casette on the takeup. That way you could also leave ~12 inches or so, since cameras expecting rolls of 120 are going to be designed to advance past the paper leader, that that action would just waste film at the beginning of the reel.
 

Cholentpot

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I think normally, you'd buy two kits, and use a spent 35mm casette on the takeup. That way you could also leave ~12 inches or so, since cameras expecting rolls of 120 are going to be designed to advance past the paper leader, that that action would just waste film at the beginning of the reel.

Cassettes don't fit in my cameras.
 

MattKing

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Cholentpot

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Will the central spool from a 35mm reloadable cassette fit?

Yep. I've done it before, it's just a pain. I need a list of 120 cameras that can just take the whole thing no issues. My TLRs won't nor will my M645 or S2.
 
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Ariston

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Thanks for the link.

Now for a takeup reel...
I just use an old 120 reel. When I'm finished, I take the whole lot out in the dark and rewind the film back into the original cassette with my hands.
 

Pieter12

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I just use an old 120 reel. When I'm finished, I take the whole lot out in the dark and rewind the film back into the original cassette with my hands.
Is there a reason you wouldn't just snip off the end from the cassette and load it right on to a developing reel? You're already in the dark.
 
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Ariston

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Is there a reason you wouldn't just snip off the end from the cassette and load it right on to a developing reel? You're already in the dark.
I only have one tank (2 reels), and usually about eight rolls (color and b&w) that need to be developed, so I like to leave my reels free in case there is something I want to develop in the moment. I hold onto rolls (especially color) to develop as many at once as possible in freshly mixed chemicals.

Good point, though - it would be more efficient to go ahead and load the reel. No one ever accused me of being very efficient, though!
 

Cholentpot

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I just use an old 120 reel. When I'm finished, I take the whole lot out in the dark and rewind the film back into the original cassette with my hands.

I find when I do that the film tends to slip off center.
 
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