provia 100f with tetenal e6 3 bath questions

[Raphael]

The proof of the pudding, is in the pudding !

Hello all,

When we had this discussion, I promised myself to test different FD development times for Provia 100F, using my Jobo ATL-1.

So, I taken my GF Camera and tripod on my shoulder, and expose a few 4x5 sheet-film of Fuji Provia 100F...

Here are the resulting scans (sorry, it's a little quick and dirty, I'm afraid)

Ex 1:

FD Time : 7m30s; CD Time : 6m; BX Time : 6m
(Theses are times I used to...)
Freshly prepared working chemicals, two 4x5 sheets processed at a time in a 2523 tank.


Ex 2:

FD Time : 6m15s; CD Time : 6m; BX Time : 6m
(Booklet recommended time)
Reused chemicals (2 4x5 sheets already processed), two 4x5 sheets processed at a time in a 2523 tank.

Shots data : Film rated @100Iso, handheld incident lightmeter (Gossen Lunasix 3).
Scans data : Epson 4990, using profiling generated with Wolf Faust target for Provia 100F.

The #2 image, is a bit "burned" in the sky, although this is not that obvious, when on the light table.

So it's now clear for me, even with my Jobo, the "good" FD time for Provia (and for the other Fuji film) is rather on the 6m15s side that to the 7m30s.

Any comment welcome,

Regards,

Raphael

 

[Photo Engineer]

Raphael;

These are very good, but without references to a true E6 process we cannot be sure of overall image quality. I think it is good, but I cannot prove it.

Nevertheless, good work.

PE

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

So it's now clear for me, even with my Jobo, the "good" FD time for Provia (and for the other Fuji film) is rather on the 6m15s side that to the 7m30s.

Any comment welcome,

Regards,

Raphael

It could be that you need a shorter first developer time in a Jobo than I use with an inversion tank, because of the difference in agitation methods. It's also possible that underdevelopment is compensating for overexposure, which could be due to metering method or a sluggish shutter, so you may want to check that. In any case, this demonstrates that everyone needs to test these things for themselves to be sure they're getting the best results with their own methods.

 

[Raphael]

Thanks

Hi all,

@PE : I am most flattered of theses words, from whom I consider a guru Thanks you.

@David : I tried to keep the exposure very controlled : The light that sunny day was pretty equal and steady, almost stunning for Brittany ; I double each shot, with a different f-stop/shutter couple, for the same EI of 20 (with my handheld meter). Then each pairs was processed with the different FD time. I notice no difference between shots from the same pair, at least over the light table.
However, to be sure, I will test my Copal-1 shutter, I tinkered recently a speedmeter with my PC. Thanks for your reply.

I made a mistake writing my above post : please read "The *#1* image, is a bit "burned" in the sky,...".

Seeing now the scans within Firefox, I am not very satisfyed with #2 image color rendering. I think I messed up with color space somewhere in PS

Regards,

Raphael

 

[vanspaendonck]

Tetenal E-6 in HP tanks anyone?

I am completely new to processing color slides, but my local lab in Amsterdam doesn't do my 4x5 Kodak Ektachrome 100 Plus Readyloads anymore and I have about 56 left. So I got myself a Tetenal E-6 three bath kit.
The manual gives times for inversion and rotary processing, which may work for my Honeywell Nikor 4x5 metal tank, but it's a dog to load properly and it always produces undeveloped spots where the film hits the retaining spring on the outside of the cage.
Can anyone tell me whether, and how, I should correct the times given by Tetenal and/or the inversion frequency when using 4x5 sheets in HP tanks? And while I'm the subject: Tetenal says that the pre-wash and first developer must be used in total darkness, implying that the color developer etc. can be used with an open tank and the lights on. To someone who has only done B&W it seems a little scary to develop film in anything else than total darkness. So, to lend a quote from Marathon Man: "Is it safe?".

 

[stefan4u]

High vanspaendonck.

Have you ever done a light reversal step by holding a 1000W spotlight over the reels ? That’s not scaring but somehow magic… After the first wash / better if the Film is in the CD, light does not matter anymore. It is safe.

The color developing time will be unchanged 6 minutes; no need to shorten this in tray processing.The first developer time may need slight adoption due other agitation. Take a picture of a precise metered Grey step pattern and compare the result with the desired, than change FD time. Standard FD time (6:15-6:30) will be very close/will nail it, if temperature and agitation are in limits. 2 minutes more equals push 1, 2 minutes less equals pull1. Deviate in 20-30sec. increments (45 sec= 1/3 aperture) in the desired direction to nail your process.

This is a Kodak link but quite useful Look at page 9.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j83/j83.pdf


Jobo link:

http://www.jobo.com/jobo_service_analog/analog_frei/bedanleitung_pdf/E-6/E-6_Handbuch_GB.pdf

Regards stefan

 

[vanspaendonck]

Thanks. I will start by using the times and inversion data for inversion developing and see how it turns out.

 

[Raphael]

Hello,

I am completely new to processing color slides, but my local lab in Amsterdam doesn't do my 4x5 Kodak Ektachrome 100 Plus Readyloads anymore and I have about 56 left. So I got myself a Tetenal E-6 three bath kit.
The manual gives times for inversion and rotary processing, which may work for my Honeywell Nikor 4x5 metal tank, but it's a dog to load properly and it always produces undeveloped spots where the film hits the retaining spring on the outside of the cage.
Can anyone tell me whether, and how, I should correct the times given by Tetenal and/or the inversion frequency when using 4x5 sheets in HP tanks?

Just to be sure : HP tanks = Combi-Plan tanks ?
Do you plan to use several tanks, or only one, then changing chemical ?

Not sure that is actually a good solution for E6, especially when you read such webpage like this, but I have no real experience with combi-plans (as you may have read early, I use Jobo rotative process), so it's just my two cents !

And while I'm the subject: Tetenal says that the pre-wash and first developer must be used in total darkness, implying that the color developer etc. can be used with an open tank and the lights on. To someone who has only done B&W it seems a little scary to develop film in anything else than total darkness.

If Tetenal says it, I would trust on this ! But personnaly I found this scary too...

So, to lend a quote from Marathon Man: "Is it safe?".

Arhg, Lawrence Olivier playing a Nazi Dentist, a great moment of film !

Give us feedback of your experiences, please.

Best regards,

Raphael

 

[Rudeofus]

And while I'm the subject: Tetenal says that the pre-wash and first developer must be used in total darkness, implying that the color developer etc. can be used with an open tank and the lights on. To someone who has only done B&W it seems a little scary to develop film in anything else than total darkness. So, to lend a quote from Marathon Man: "Is it safe?".

If you did B&W reversal you'd have the same thing, i.e. after the first few steps you can work in daylight! Think about it: the first step does developing, after you washed the film there is (ideally) no developer left in the film, these are the two steps which need to happen in complete darkness. The next step in Tetenal's procedure, the CD bath, develops the parts of the film which were not developed during the first step and forms color dyes where silver halides get developed. Note, that this bath also contains a chemical which simulates an exposure, i.e. the bath behaves chemically just as if you used it in bright daylight.

In other words: it doesn't hurt to do CD, BLIX and STAB in broad daylight, but if it makes you feel better you can do these steps in complete darkness. One consideration may be whether it is easier to pour the chems into and from a closed or an open film tank.