Printing on old agfa / ilford paper

[imyself]

Hi everyone,
I bought a darkroom bundle that included boxes of old paper from various manufacturers and of various vintages. I thought I would post the scanned images from two of the old paper brands that I have for everyone to see and also a print from a fresh paper for comparison.
The negative is tri-x taken with my nikon f100 camera and 105mm f/2 dc lens, developed in diafine with water stop and eco pro neutral fixer with a dip in adostab. The 'fresh print' (incidentally, my first ever darkroom print) is adox MCP 310 premium glossy, 8 x 10. The second print is ilford ilfospeed 1.35m grade 1 silk 6.5 x 8.5. The third is agfa portriga speed PS 318 PE grade 2 8x 10 (the package has a date written on it; '23-11-85'). The ilford and agfa packages were still sealed and unopened. All printed 'straight' on a Durst enlarger with nikon lens with same exposure time, developer LPD 1:3 2 min, water stop bath 60 sec, eco pro neutral fixer 1:4 1 minute and two minute wash with final rinse in adox adostab. Images scanned on a cheap canon lide 210 scanner and cropped in LR4
The agfa is toast, clearly. The ilford surprised me, it looks good but has a brownish tint and I'm not sure if this is a sign of paper degradation of just how it prints. The 'silk' paper isnt smooth but almost looks like a very finely weaved canvas or fabric. Im a bit disappointed about the agfa paper but chuffed with the ilford seeing that I've got about 20, 100 sheet boxes!
Cheers
Adam
PS
I accidentally printed plastic side of negative to paper emulsion (not emulsion to emulsion), how would that have altered the print?

 

[AgX]

I accidentally printed plastic side of negative to paper emulsion (not emulsion to emulsion), how would that have altered the print?

This only would affect resolution, depending on kind of exposure lighting. But would not be of effect on a paper print in contrast to a print film to be enlarged again.

 

[bernard_L]

Suggestion to revive Portriga:
try this:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
(the second formula)
with 4x the indicated amount of bromide and/or benzotriazole. Benzotriazole might alter the warmtone character of Portriga, but that's better than dumping it. May or may not work.
Another possibility: print for shadows, then Farmer's reducer (ferricyanide) to clean the highlights, fix, wash.
I sent you a PM.

 

[MattKing]

Interesting, and thanks.

Of course, the old Ilfospeed started out as a low contrast (grade 1) paper, so the result is pretty good.

 

[pentaxuser]

I take it that "fresh" MCP means very recently made. If we call that "new" then how much older is the Ilford Ilfospeed? The Ilfospeed doesn't have quite the sparkle of of the MCP but this may simply be the Ilfospeed's lower grade which Matt has mentioned.

Thanks

pentaxuser

 

[imyself]

Ilford paper box

I bought the darkroom equipment and paper from a woman who was selling her late husband's gear (he died six years ago), so I can't get any more information about the paper. I've scanned the box so perhaps that might give you an idea of how old the paper is. I should add that when I picked up the paper, it was stored on a shelf in the water heater cupboard in the bathroom! Should I expect the paper to have that warmish hue or is the paper deteriorating? I rather like the look of the ilford print compared to the adox print (the adox paper is brand new).
Cheers
Adam

 

[EdSawyer]

1980-or so vintage I'd say.

 

[pentaxuser]

It's all down to "the eye of the beholder" I prefer the MCP but were the Ilford paper to be V.C. or Ilfospeed medium contrast then it might well match the Adox paper.

My next statement can only be anecdotal but from everything I have read and from some experience of the older Agfa MCP as opposed to the new Adox I'd say that Ilford has the edge in terms of longevity.

Thanks for your answers

pentaxuser

 

[paul_c5x4]

Pop the paper in the fridge, and when you are ready to experiment, try using it for some lith prints - I've got some vintage Ilford papers that I use, and one box that coincidentally is a 'silk' surface, produces some wonderful lith prints.

 

[doug_morse]

In the old paper I have tried I have seen similar results of fogging like the Agfa example. I used Universal PQ from Ilford to start. I tried Moersch EasyLith and found it reduced fogging considerably. I suspect this is due to the retarding agent as this come up consistently in forums. I would like to experiment with potassium bromide or benzotriazole as one post suggested but have not done so yet.


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