Primo Jr shutter question

[moltogordo]

I collect cameras, and have 3 Primo Jrs. All have a similar shutter problem . . . when fired after any kind of hiatus, the shutter is slow, maybe 1/20th second. If I fire a second shot right away, it will be fine. But any hiatus, even half a minute repeats the problem.

I have a good store of 127 film and I'd really like to have the best of the Primos I have restored. Who does such work? If I can get the shutter restored for around $150, I'll probably do it. I like this camera a lot, and I'd love to make it a regular user. I also have a Yashica 44 that needs a shutter tune, as well. I'm a total mechanical moron, and don't want to even touch any do-it-yourself ideas. A guy like me probably shouldn't collect cameras, eh?

Thanks
Gord

 

[rrunnertexas]

Were you ever able to find a solution to this problem?

I just bought a Primo Jr, same as yours. It has the same problem - the first shot will hang up - then work great. Let it sit for a few minutes, then it sticks just a bit. Ahhhhhh

I can see what looks like just a bit of oil on the edges of the shutter blades and I am sure this is what is causing this. I removed the front lens element, but can't seem to figure out how to get the next one out so that I can get to the shutter blades.

Can anyone help with this?

Thanks!

 

[rrunnertexas]

I think I answered my own question. The inner element is screwed into the shutter and it can be removed without taking the entire front apart.

After applying some Ronsonol to the shutter blades and letting it dry, the shutter seems to work like new.

Problem may be solved.

 

[shutterfinger]

All shutters in this thread need a CLA.

After applying some Ronsonol to the shutter blades and letting it dry, the shutter seems to work like new.

You may have actually done some more harm.
The slowness in the shutters (both post) is due to the grease drying out and the oil used to becoming thick and sticky from heat and age. To add to this as a shutter is used the metal contact areas wear despite good lubrication and leave microscopic particles of the metals in the oil and grease used. As the shutter ages the wear increases. Flushing without disassembling any shutter with any solvent or degreaser may soften the dried grease base and wash some of the gummy oil away by moving it around the inside of the shutter but the wear particles usually remain and contaminate other areas of the shutter. Flushing is a temporary measure to get you through a shoot or two but is not a fix.

I am backlogged, not familiar Seiko shutters, not familiar with TLR disassembly, and don't experiment with other peoples equipment.

 

[Ian Grant]

All shutters in this thread need a CLA.


You may have actually done some more harm.
The slowness in the shutters (both post) is due to the grease drying out and the oil used to becoming thick and sticky from heat and age. To add to this as a shutter is used the metal contact areas wear despite good lubrication and leave microscopic particles of the metals in the oil and grease used. As the shutter ages the wear increases. Flushing without disassembling any shutter with any solvent or degreaser may soften the dried grease base and wash some of the gummy oil away by moving it around the inside of the shutter but the wear particles usually remain and contaminate other areas of the shutter. Flushing is a temporary measure to get you through a shoot or two but is not a fix.

I am backlogged, not familiar Seiko shutters, not familiar with TLR disassembly, and don't experiment with other peoples equipment.

I totally disagree, except that I wouldn't use or recommend using lighter fuel preferring to use IPA (iso-propyl alcohol) sparingly. Lighter fuel is too aggressive as it strips away all lubrication. I've resurrected a great number of shutters that way all of which still work perfectly, some 30+ years later and in reasonably frequent use.

Quite frequently all that's needed is a few drops of alcohol to free up a sticky shutter.

It's about knowing what you are doing, I used WD40 on one shutter (an Optimo) and it worked a treat, it's the last thing you should ever think of using as it can dry to a sticky mess and is a pig to remove but because of corrosion & general filth it was exactly what was needed. I flushed the shutter with white spirits and then washed it well with hot water and detergent, then finally flushed well with IPA in a syringe, once dried I lubricated the shutter and piston and it works perfectly.

It's down to economics, sometimes a commercial CLA is going to cost far more than the shutter/camera is worth so you look at alternative means. I do use a reputable and good repair shop for my main camera/shutter servicing but minimum charges in the UK are quite high now, typically £50 ($76) so I'll usually do my own CLA's on shutters (LF lenses) I pick up in flea markets and camera fairs.

Ian

 

[rrunnertexas]

Thank you for the replies - advice and instruction are very appreciated!

Shutterfinger - All I did was use a "Q-tip" that was soaked with Ronsonol and touch the shutter blades. After it dried, the blades were clean and worked great. I let it sit last night and this morning it works as it should - no sticking. Prior to the cleaning, it would stick.

I certainly understand what you are pointing out. It may only be a temporary fix, until I can get into the shutter later, if needed.

Ian - My fingers are crossed that this will continue to work as it has for you as well. Since the CLA for this camera is at least 100 dollars, it is sometimes a challenge.... home remedies only cost some time and it is enjoyable to learn as well.

Thanks!