That would have to be BLIX, not bleach. BLIX does indeed separate out the way you described. Bleach doesn't.
We're happy to have you back!
A bottle of RA4 Champion bleach
I’m just thinking that the reason I came back to APUG/Photrio was the frank exchange of differing ideas and experiences.
That would have to be BLIX, not bleach. BLIX does indeed separate out the way you described. Bleach doesn't.
We're happy to have you back!
I've had the fixer portion of blix go bad, sulfur ppt, I substituted rapid fixer, worked fine.
Well, here's something funny. I used to use a Fuji monopart blix (so a single concentrate), which seemed to have an infinite lifetime as a concentrate. I recently switched over to CP-RA, which is a double concentrate (so bleach + fix). And sure enough, on this one, the fixer part sulfurs out pretty easily. I've had to resort to the entirely-full-glass-bottle approach for storing that part. Next time I'll go back to the monopart blix. Don't ask me why the monopart stuff is more stable; it's contrary to what I'd expected!
I have mixed fuji Hunt 5l kit and have frozen developer in 500ml plastic bottles. When I have 10 to 12 rolls, I thaw 2 bottles, makeup 1litre chemistry and use them. For the time being I have not seen any color issue and the way I test this is if the same film (like Portra 400) prints on the same RA4 paper with roughly the same filter settings without any color issue, till now I am successful. But again, I am not a Pro.
I can't help but feel that some of these formulas have some sort of "anti-oxidizing" additive???
I have quite a lot of experience from the same kit. My practice is dividing the developer concentrate in portions for a batch of 1L in small glass bottles I have bought from a laboratory supplies store. and fill them with inert gas (I still have some Tetenal Protectan left, gas for lighters will go as well). In these containers it will keep for a very long time. The part which must be protected from oxidation is the part C containing the developing agent, but I have found it easier to put all chemicals for the deceloper in batches, because it is easier when you don´t need to measure them each time you make a new batch. I usually use the chemistry 3 times developing 4 rolls at a time in my Jobo 1500 series tank, which takes about a liter if used in hand invertinh. I don´y hsve a rotary device such as Jobo, which has a water bath, so I develop films by hand. My rotary system is good for RA-4 only. Some people insist that dilm developers are for one shot use only if not replenished, but I have not experienced visible deviation in my negatives. That said, I have not tested this with a test strip and densitometer. But I do agree that you should not overuse any of your chemistry.
I would not recommend freezing developers, as the manufacturers warn about the risk of precipitation if stored in low temperatures. This is more of an issue for concentrates, but I recommend dividing the concentrates in small glass bottles instead of mixing everything. It takes much less room, and will keep well this way.
I also standardized my fixer: using Ilford Rapid Fixer for everything from b&w to C41/e6/ecn-2. Then I only need to store color developer properly in sealed wine bags. Bleach last long enough, even stored in basic brown bottles.
The s might be a very stupid question, you have my permission to laugh!
Can you preserve mixed C41 developer, bleach, and stabilizer by freezing them? At the moment I don’t shoot enough color film to make it financially justifiable to keep C41 developer at home.
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