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Prescysol

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Gary Holliday

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Joined
Apr 12, 2006
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824
Location
Cambridge, UK
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As a lazy person when it comes to developer choice, I've been intrigued by some older discussions on the use of Prescysol and considering a change.

Does this dev have a particular favourite film?

Any films in particular to avoid?

My current films in use are 120 Acros, Rollei Retro 100 and Efke 25. Subject matter is often high key.
 
I've used this as my only developer to develop 4x5 and 35 mm Acros, 35 mm Neopan 400 and 120 Tri-X 400, all at the recommended 8 minutes development time. The Acros E.I. needs to be 80, the other films are at box speed. Results are fine, the 400 ISO films show restrained,beautiful grain.
 
I just start using this developer, the one I use is Precysol EF, I used it on APX100, HP5+ with very good results. I just finished developing HP5+ 4X5 sheet film, they look good while drying.

I use semi-stand method for all my films, box speed seems fine. For a lazy person like me, this developer has a thing I like is it can develop different speed film in one tank. I am pretty sure you will like it.

Alex W.
 
i think barry thornton mentions in elements of transition (not the original elements) that he likes using delta 100, hp5+ and delta 400 with his developers because they stain well.

his developers (dixactol, exactol lux) are probably very similar to prescysol, so i imagine this holds true as well.

his comment on acros was that it stains, but not as well as delta 100.

that said, i think staining is just one aspect of film choice. i'm not switching hp5 for delta even though the latter stains better.
 
When Peter Hogan first released Prescysol, I was in a state of picking a direction for film developers and decided to try it. I had great results on everything I tried it with (Acros, HP5+, Neopan 400, Delta films). It also happened that about that time, I was first fiddling with some home brew ideas and got sidetracked (again). It became the freeze season in NW Wisconsin and I didn't order more Prescysol (it's liquid concentrate) because of delivery issues at -20°F. In the meantime I had begun depending upon PyroCat-HD as my go-to developer and never got back to the Prescysol but would enthusiastically recommend it to anyone interested in trying it. I would say that with my limited testing and experience with it that results were really quite similar to PyroCat and I will happily go one using it in its various versions. I'm liking the MC variant and likely continuing with that as I like the likelyhood of its added stability and the results are consistent with other PyroCat experiences for me.
 
It doesn’t have a favourite film, or rather if there is one I haven’t found it yet. I’ve used it with Ilford Delta 100, 400, HP5, Fuji, Maco IR, and Rollie IR 120 and 5x4. The Ilford and Fuji are rated at box speed, and I use the semi-stand development because it doesn’t make my arms ache so much as the cocktail routine. I’m also happy to mix brands and grades of film. I find the staining ensures the negatives are easier to print, although generally needing a grade higher contrast than, say Rodinal would need.
 
When Peter Hogan first released Prescysol, I was in a state of picking a direction for film developers and decided to try it. I had great results on everything I tried it with (Acros, HP5+, Neopan 400, Delta films). It also happened that about that time, I was first fiddling with some home brew ideas and got sidetracked (again). It became the freeze season in NW Wisconsin and I didn't order more Prescysol (it's liquid concentrate) because of delivery issues at -20°F. In the meantime I had begun depending upon PyroCat-HD as my go-to developer and never got back to the Prescysol but would enthusiastically recommend it to anyone interested in trying it. I would say that with my limited testing and experience with it that results were really quite similar to PyroCat and I will happily go one using it in its various versions. I'm liking the MC variant and likely continuing with that as I like the likelyhood of its added stability and the results are consistent with other PyroCat experiences for me.


The formula of Presysol must be identical, or almost so, to that of Pyrocat-HD. I have compared them at the same dilution and time of development and results were for all practical purposes identical. I also measured the pH of the Presysol Stock A and B solutions and they too were the same as Pyrocat-HD.

So if you have used Pyrocat-HD and liked the results you should like Presysol.

Sandy King
 
I find the staining ensures the negatives are easier to print, although generally needing a grade higher contrast than, say Rodinal would need.

I am a little disappointed to read this, as I need a contrasty print from graded paper.

Peter Hogan states the following...

"When printing on graded silver papers it will be found that the brown stain of Prescysol filters out more of the bluewavelength of the enlarger light, and to which silver papers are sensitive, than the yellow/green of pyro, effectively increasing contrast by as much as one paper-grade."

I'm not understanding this statement. Is he saying that Pyro or Prescycol gives an increased paper grade?
 
Yes. On either graded or VC paper the contrast of a stained image from pyro, catechol or hydroquinone will increase the printing contrast by comparison with an unstained negative with the same silver density. The increase will be greater on graded paper than on VC without a filter, but a blue or magenta filter will make the VC at least as contrasty as the graded paper.
 
I have used both Prescysol and EF and had excellent results. Because I prefer higher contrast in my negatives I use it at double strength dilution with the same development times.
 
I've used Prescycol EF on Silvertone 100 (APX 100), and Fuji Acros and was thrilled with the results. I used the semi-stand method, at the ratio of 1:1:100 as recommended by Formulary (where I purchased it), and took it out to 13 minutes (1 min continuous agitation, 4 x 3 min 'periods') What can one say; it's convenient, and gives great results.
 
I just read up on prescysol on the PF site and was excited about it until I saw how little capacity one gets for the price. Wow, this stuff is expensive to use!
 
I just read up on prescysol on the PF site and was excited about it until I saw how little capacity one gets for the price. Wow, this stuff is expensive to use!

Try Pyrocat-HD. It is the same thing, IMO, except for the name. A lot less expensive, and with a much longer history.

And the Pyrocat-HD formula is in the public domain. And has been for years and years!! In fact, long before there was a Presysol.

Sandy
 
I just read up on prescysol on the PF site and was excited about it until I saw how little capacity one gets for the price. Wow, this stuff is expensive to use!

How can a developer be regarded as expensive when account is taken of all the other financial factors, and time constraints required to produce a usable negative? I suggest the material such as film and developer are the cheapest part of the equation; in fact quite a negligible part. However Sandy's comments seem pertinent for those that like to mix their own.
Mention is made in this thread of varying the development time of Prescysol, I understand that this has little effect, and Peter Hogan's recommendation is to vary the dilution; as advocated by Les'. I except that this approach may cause some further palpitations of the wallet. :smile:
 
Dave, you state: "... Peter Hogan's recommendation is to vary the dilution ...". I'd be interested in learning more about his, but have checked Peter's web site and can't find any information regarding same. I've also 'Googled' Prescycol EF and dilutions and not found anything of relevance. Can you point me in the correct direction (or dilution as the case may be)?
 
Dave, you state: "... Peter Hogan's recommendation is to vary the dilution ...". I'd be interested in learning more about his, but have checked Peter's web site and can't find any information regarding same. I've also 'Googled' Prescycol EF and dilutions and not found anything of relevance. Can you point me in the correct direction (or dilution as the case may be)?

I'm afraid I cannot, it is information that came out of a conversation with Peter a couple of years ago, at, I think, the 1st UK APUG get together. It's not something that I pursued as I have been happy:smile: (laziness?):surprised: with the results from the recommended dilution. I was only reminded of it when I read the comments posted above by Les.
 
Just a further thought. If Prescysol is the same or similar to Pyrocat-HD then the user method of that product should presumabaly apply to Prescysol. Any input on this Sandy?
 
Toadhall

If you are a user of Prescysol, a quick email to Peter himself will get you all the info you need. He is a very helpfull man

Just to add, I recently wanted to develop some HP5 rated at 800, and as has been mentioned, the advice was to alter the dilution, not the time.

All the Best

Stoo

Dave, you state: "... Peter Hogan's recommendation is to vary the dilution ...". I'd be interested in learning more about his, but have checked Peter's web site and can't find any information regarding same. I've also 'Googled' Prescycol EF and dilutions and not found anything of relevance. Can you point me in the correct direction (or dilution as the case may be)?
 
Dave

Just for info, I am literally just about to develop two films in Pyrocat-HD homebrew. 0ne roll of HP5 and one roll of Delta 100, both at box speed

I will do everything as if I was using Prescysol EF. I will post the results and any comparisons here.

Regards

Stoo

Just a further thought. If Prescysol is the same or similar to Pyrocat-HD then the user method of that product should presumabaly apply to Prescysol. Any input on this Sandy?
 
Just a further thought. If Prescysol is the same or similar to Pyrocat-HD then the user method of that product should presumabaly apply to Prescysol. Any input on this Sandy?

You can increase negative contrast with either Pyrocat-HD or Presysol by increasing time of development or by using a stronger dilution.

For printing on graded silver papers the 1:1:100 dilution will generally give the most reasonable devleoment times (10-15 minutes). For VC silver papers the 2:2:100 dilution gives more reasonable development times.

Sandy King
 
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