Prepend a custom leader to 135 roll film

[jernejk]

I'm a slow shooter and usually repackage a roll in multiple shorter rolls. Of course, by doing so, I'm wasting a lot of film for leader.

How could I attach an (expired) piece of film to use it as a reusable leader to reduce the waste?

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

Probably hard to do, you need a camera that doesnt use the sprockets or would not mind the film jumping the sprockets from tape covering them or misalignment with two pieces of film. There are a few cameras such as the canon elan that can use film without perforations.

 

[john_s]

Maybe you could do something like what's done to splice movie film. The film pieces are held in place in a device makng sure the perforations are spaced properly and film cement is used to glue the pieces together. Prior to that the emulsion is scraped off one piece of film (as the lap join is one emulsion surface to one film base surface). Do a search for splicing movie film. The film cement works as a solvent as well as a glue, and I think I'm right in saying that it would work only on acetate films which are soluble in whatever solvent is used.

You might even pick up a 35mm movie splicer.

I'm not sure I'd bother, but I'm lazy.

Edit: since the 35mm film has identical sprocket holes on both sides (unlike most movie film) you wouldn't have to scrape emulsion, just join base to base.

 

[jernejk]

I use EOS, so sprocket holes are no problem. Maybe the counter could get confused, but that's it.
I could make the connection by overlapping sprocket holes of the leader and the roll. Leader is just leader, so the quality of joint is not critical - it just needs to be reliable. I'd use a sellotape, but not sure it'll hold. I guess I need to try.

 

[fotch]

Since you are doing most of the work anyway, why not start with a 100ft roll? You will save a lot more than what you are doing now. You don't have to load all of it until closer to shooting it so you can have the most flexibility.

 

[Xmas]

Since you are doing most of the work anyway, why not start with a 100ft roll? You will save a lot more than what you are doing now. You don't have to load all of it until closer to shooting it so you can have the most flexibility.

Yea or 400 foot can or 'short ends'...

 

[StoneNYC]

Why not just splice and load in the dark? So you start with the frame already unexposed and don't have to advance it after closing the back.

But I agree, getting a 100 foot roll is probably the smartest move, unless the film you shoot isn't available in 100 foot rolls and then of course doing what you do is the only option.

 

[jernejk]

Why not just splice and load in the dark? So you start with the frame already unexposed and don't have to advance it after closing the back.

Not an option with EOS.

Anyway, the solution is simple and it works:

 

[StoneNYC]

Not an option with EOS.

Anyway, the solution is simple and it works:
View attachment 79252

Ahh yes true...

For someone that shoots so few frames, why is he using an EOS camera? Lol

 

[jernejk]

Because that someone has EOS lenses from the digital system and EOS cameras are actually very good...

 

[StoneNYC]

Because that someone has EOS lenses from the digital system and EOS cameras are actually very good...

Lol, I know they are good I have a 1V

 

[AgX]

Since you are doing most of the work anyway, why not start with a 100ft roll? You will save a lot more than what you are doing now. You don't have to load all of it until closer to shooting it so you can have the most flexibility.

And you may get more film into the cartridge.
(However the camera release must not be stopped by frame #36 and one must be able to handle the longer strip in the developing tank.)

 

[David Brown]

Let us know how bad the tape residue mucks up your camera when there is a failure.

 

[jernejk]

Let us know how bad the tape residue mucks up your camera when there is a failure.

Well... when it comes to innovation:

 

[StoneNYC]

Let us know how bad the tape residue mucks up your camera when there is a failure.

I reroll all my 35mm using standard scotch tape, though it doesn't actually go on the leader but just at the end, however it's never bled any kind of goo that would mockup anything so far as I can tell, that said I wasn't shooting in adverse heat conditions.