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[Paul Manuell]

Pentax 645N2, 120 macro, Kodak Portra 160

 

[awty]

View attachment 222402
Pentax 645N2, 120 macro, Kodak Portra 160

Good to see she/he came out of the desert ok.

 

[Paul Manuell]

Good to see she/he came out of the desert ok.

Yeah, it enjoyed its desert adventure but was pleased to get back to its more familiar (and hospitable) surroundings.

 

[awty]

One I took a couple of weeks ago using 4x5 and printed and toned on 8x10 paper. Just finished hanging a 12x16 print, prime viewing spot opposite the toilet.

Tea Tree Bend by Paul Fitz, on Flickr

 

[Paul Manuell]

Pentax 645N2, 120mm macro, Kodak Portra 160

 

[GLS]

Hasselblad 501CM, Distagon 4/50 CFi, Acros 100, Pyrocat-HD

 

[Paul Manuell]

Hasselblad 501CM, Distagon 4/50 CFi, Acros 100, Pyrocat-HD

Really like this, the leaves have an almost infrared look to them.

 

[GLS]

Really like this, the leaves have an almost infrared look to them.

Thank you.

 

[John Galt]

Hasselblad 501CM, Distagon 4/50 CFi, Acros 100, Pyrocat-HD

Stunning image GLS!

Am I correct that it was a slightly overcast day and the sun was behind the center tree trunks? Do you remember your exposure settings? This was a challenging shot that was done extremely well. Great highlights and great shadow detail. I aspire to do shots like this. Bravo!

 

[GLS]

Stunning image GLS!

Am I correct that it was a slightly overcast day and the sun was behind the center tree trunks? Do you remember your exposure settings? This was a challenging shot that was done extremely well. Great highlights and great shadow detail. I aspire to do shots like this. Bravo!

Thank you for the kind words.

Actually it was quite a sunny day, and the tree was backlit from this position. I rated the Acros at EI 80 (as I usually do), and IIRC I spot metered off the brighter side of the second trunk from the left, intentionally overexposing by about a stop to give a brighter tone to the wood and lend the foliage & sky more brilliance. This resulted in a 1/2 second exposure at f16, which gave a fair amount of motion blur in the foliage (it was also fairly windy that day); more than I really like, but you can't always have everything.

At these settings the foliage/sky was metering at + 5 or 6 stops obove Zone V in places, but Acros has a very gentle shoulder, and the compensating properties of Pyrocat-HD also helps in these situations.

 

[John Galt]

Thank you for the kind words.

Actually it was quite a sunny day, and the tree was backlit from this position. I rated the Acros at EI 80 (as I usually do), and IIRC I spot metered off the brighter side of the second trunk from the left, intentionally overexposing by about a stop to give a brighter tone to the wood and lend the foliage & sky more brilliance. This resulted in a 1/2 second exposure at f16, which gave a fair amount of motion blur in the foliage (it was also fairly windy that day); more than I really like, but you can't always have everything.

At these settings the foliage/sky was metering at + 5 or 6 stops obove Zone V in places, but Acros has a very gentle shoulder, and the compensating properties of Pyrcoat-HD also helps in these situations.

Thanks for the quick reply GLS.

I purchased 60 rolls of Acros 120 right at the end of it's availability from B&H Photo. I have shot 1 roll, developed in Xtol. It was just a test roll shot at ASA 100 but I liked what I saw. My next roll will most likely be developed in ADOX Rodinol. This is a shot from that roll . .

 

[John Galt]

Hasselblad 501CM, Distagon 4/50 CFi, Acros 100, Pyrocat-HD

I meant to ask . . is this a scan of the neg?

 

[GLS]

I meant to ask . . is this a scan of the neg?

Yes. I digitise my film with my D810.

I also stockpiled 120 rolls of Acros 120 before it sold out everywhere. Fantastic film. Before I developed my own B&W I used to send them to a lab which used XTOL for development. I personally found their results with Acros to generally be a little wanting, but no doubt it could be tweaked for improvement. I have developed Acros with Rodinal before too, but found the grain a little heavy for my liking.

This film really sings with Pyrocat-HD IMO, as does T-Max 100.

 

[GLS]

Here's another one from that roll, showing a different view of the same tree:

 

[John Galt]

Yes. I digitise my film with my D810.

I also stockpiled 120 rolls of Acros 120 before it sold out everywhere. Fantastic film. Before I developed my own B&W I used to send them to a lab which used XTOL for development. I personally found their results with Acros to generally be a little wanting, but no doubt it could be tweaked for improvement. I have developed Acros with Rodinal before too, but found the grain a little heavy for my liking.

This film really sings with Pyrocat-HD IMO, as does T-Max 100.

GLS, I wonder how it would develop using Microdol X? I have about 20 old cans and a couple dozen packets I acquired at an auction several yrs ago . . each of them make 1 gallon . . Not sure whether to start using it or just save it.

You digitize using a Nikon D810? How in the world do you accomplish that?

 

[GLS]

GLS, I wonder how it would develop using Microdol X?

Couldn't say. I believe Microdol X is supposed to be similar to Perceptol? The latter I haven't yet tried with Acros, but I've seen some excellent results from others, and I've been meaning to give it a go at some point.

 

[MattKing]

You digitize using a Nikon D810? How in the world do you accomplish that?

Essentially the same as the old way of copying slides using a bellows, a close focusing lens and a slide holder at the end, except you use a digital camera instead of a film camera at the "taking" end.

 

[GLS]

You digitize using a Nikon D810? How in the world do you accomplish that?

Please see my post here:

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/neg-scans-grain-with-fp4.157955/page-3#post-2137561

 

[John Galt]

MattKing and GLS . . fascinating. Thank you

 

[GLS]

And now for something completely different: some IR photography (my first ever attempt at this).

Hasselblad 501CM, 2.8/80 Planar CFE, Hoya R72 filter, Rollei IR 400, developed in DD-X 1:4 for 10 mins at 20 C.

I used the single entry for DD-X and this film on the massive dev chart, but most of the negatives came out much too dense. Fortunately some of the bracketed frames were still usable (such as the above), but the development time needs at least 1 minute shaving off it I reckon. Either that or try Rodinal next time (as Rollei actually provide times for this).

 

[Paul Manuell]

And now for something completely different: some IR photography (my first ever attempt at this).

Hasselblad 501CM, 2.8/80 Planar CFE, Hoya R72 filter, Rollei IR 400, developed in DD-X 1:4 for 10 mins at 20 C.

I used the single entry for DD-X and this film on the massive dev chart, but most of the negatives came out much too dense. Fortunately some of the bracketed frames were still usable (such as the above), but the development time needs at least 1 minute shaving off it I reckon. Either that or try Rodinal next time (as Rollei actually provide times for this).

I love infrared and I'm going to try this film this summer, having had good results with SFX200 last summer.
Tell me, please, what were your working methods when shooting this film? Getting inspiration from a post somewhere on this site about exposures with the Rollei film and an IR72 filter, I shot my SFX200 following the same procedures and got excellent results but would be very interested to hear yours.

 

[GLS]

I love infrared and I'm going to try this film this summer, having had good results with SFX200 last summer.
Tell me, please, what were your working methods when shooting this film? Getting inspiration from a post somewhere on this site about exposures with the Rollei film and an IR72 filter, I shot my SFX200 following the same procedures and got excellent results but would be very interested to hear yours.

I used EI 6 as a base value with the filter, then bracketed +/- 1 stop. The EI 12 shots were the best, but it was a very sunny day, and very clear conditions too (the moon was visible), so probably not representative of typical UK weather

The overdevelopment probably skewed these results further. I think a healthy amount of bracketing will always be a good idea with IR.

 

[Paul Manuell]

I used EI 6 as a base value with the filter, then bracketed +/- 1 stop. The EI 12 shots were the best, but it was a very sunny day, and very clear conditions too (the moon was visible), so probably not representative of typical UK weather

The overdevelopment probably skewed these results further. I think a healthy amount of bracketing will always be a good idea with IR.

So you were taking unfiltered readings at those ISOs I guess, then attaching the filter, yes? And 6 and 12 ISO would've been 6 and 5 stops respectively over box speed.
The post I referred to set out examples of photos at various stops over box speed, and 4 stops over gave the best results, so 25 ISO. I went the 4 stops over box speed route with the SFX200 (but using the method of setting the shutter speed 4 stops over the unfiltered reading with the ISO dial left on 200, rather than setting the ISO dial to 12, but that's just a different way of reaching the same end result) and got excellent results. I also luckily had very sunny days (we do occasionally get them over here ), and the speed I was getting at my chosen fstop (f11) was 1/250, so with the filter attached I simply selected 1/15.
I don't know how to provide links, but the title of the thread is 'Rollei IR400S - it's not HIE , but WOW...' The really helpful post is by ME Super, the OP of the thread, but the 5th post down, the one with comparison shots of some trees.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Love the infrared examples. Here is another of mine. This is a farm road off North Washington Street in Vicksburg, Mississippi. Kodak Ektar 25 film, Hasselblad 501CM, 250mm f/5.6 Sonnar lens, tripod-mounted. The fields in the distance are inundated because the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers were above flood stage. The Ektar was expired and the colors are a bit odd.

 

[GLS]

So you were taking unfiltered readings at those ISOs I guess, then attaching the filter, yes? And 6 and 12 ISO would've been 6 and 5 stops respectively over box speed.

Correct.