Positive Analog Solargraph

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NedL

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This thread is about a first attempt to make an analog positive solargraph. I chose a solargraph that I didn't care about to do these experiments. It was made on a 3.5 x 5 inch piece of Adorama RC VC paper exposed for a little over 9 months.
My goal is to make a positive image that I can legally display on APUG....:smile: Usually I scan these and invert the colors using software, not very different from handling color negative film but there is no orange "mask".

I should mention that I'm terrible at getting colors right when I scan, and although I tried to make these images look like they do in hand, some of them are a little off. Also, I don't own a film scanner, but just an el cheapo flatbed that I got on sale for $28.

Step 1, I've worked out a way to fix solargraphs, so I did that. It involves a very very slight amount of development, followed by normal rapid fixer. Here's what we are starting with:

ansolar0001.jpg

The background is just a bit lighter than this shows, but it is pretty close. The first thing I tried was a contact lumen print onto photo paper. You can probably guess what happened by the color... it was very effective at blocking the light. After 2 hours under a cfl there was an even light pink. So I put it under a UV BLB overnight, and only got a somewhat darker lavender-grey color, but no hint of any image. This background color blocks the light that photo paper is sensitive to just as well as the sun streaks.

Next try: I took my macro pinhole camera and made an "enlargement" of a portion of the solargraph onto 5x7 paper. I like the result, but part of the fun of solargraphs is all the color:

ansolar0002.jpg

Now we get to my wacko idea: I made a copy of the solargraph onto FP-100C instant film. For this experiment, I used my instant film pinhole camera to make the copy... maybe in the future I will use a lens:

ansolar0003.jpg

That actually looks pretty neat in hand. It is a little greener than my scan shows, and it does not have so strong a brownish cast on the right. It looks like a solargraph underwater in a blue-green sea!

Next I "reclaimed" the negative ( which contains a positive of the solargraph ) by removing the "black goo" with bleach. This went well but the "negative" is a bit thin and low contrast. I put it into my enlarger and projected it directly onto a pack of FP-100C on my baseboard, hoping to transfer the positive image into something I can hold in my hand and legally upload to APUG. The result was not very good but it is a positive image:

ansolar0004.jpg

It's maybe a little better than this scan shows, but not much.

Anyway, that's what I tried today. At the end of it all, my favorite is still the original solargraph, and I'm going to make some bigger cameras to try to make 8x10 or 11x14 versions....
 
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mesantacruz

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First of all, thank you for taking the time out to post this and inform us of the steps you took to make each one. I know all these take effort and persistence. I recently started reading up on solargraphs after someone posted the news about the pinhole solargraphy camera that was mistaken by a bomb. Anyway, i ended up looking into solargraphs, this by far is a more interesting read and quite informative, because analog positives through enlargements or contacts is something that i wondered about. Thanks again.
 
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NedL

NedL

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I really love doing solargraphy, and it is so simple and fun and easy there is no reason not to try it!

There are things about it that are so different from normal photography, I think of it as a totally separate and different hobby. The only thing you control is where you put your camera. Everything else is "what happens" to the sun the wind the weather the humidity... when you open it, it's like opening a gift: you have no idea what will be inside. Sometimes it's a big mess and sometimes it's an absolute jewel. It's also neat that it is the passage of months that places the image onto the paper.

I'm not an "expert" ( there probably is no such thing! ) but am happy to answer any question I can. If you want to try it, my advice is to do everything in the simplest way you can think of first, and not get caught up trying to make a perfect pinhole or anything tedious. Luck and serendipity involved... and some of my favorites came from places that didn't seem so promising...
 
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removed account4

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thanks for posting these ned !
it is great to see others working
in the formerly non-fixable medium :wink:

theylook nice !
john
 

TheToadMen

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Hello Ned,

Nice project you've got there! I like it. I'm gonna post a pinhole camera in my garden this week for the next WPPD 2015 on April 26th, 2015. This gives me 7 months to expose the solargraph.

I might even try a sheet of Harman Direct Positive paper to get a positive analogue image in the first place.

Bert from Holland
 
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NedL

NedL

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Hello Ned,

Nice project you've got there! I like it. I'm gonna post a pinhole camera in my garden this week for the next WPPD 2015 on April 26th, 2015. This gives me 7 months to expose the solargraph.

I might even try a sheet of Harman Direct Positive paper to get a positive analogue image in the first place.

Bert from Holland

Hi Bert, that sounds like a good idea to me! It's actually a good time in the next couple weeks because of the equinox. All of your sun streaks will be below the line defined by yesterday's sun. So you won't have as wide an area of the sky covered with sunstreaks, but you will have lots of places where the sun has gone by twice, and those have a special look to them and fill in more.

I have no idea if DPP would have a positive image on the surface! You might try a 1 week experiment and see first..!

Have fun!
 
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NedL

NedL

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How do you fix a solargraph? What do you do exactly?

Hi Peter,

Ilford MGIV and Adorama VC RC paper emulsions have something in them that acts like incorporated developer.

If you put the paper into alkali solution, you will get some self-limited development, and the amount of development can be controlled by how alkaline the solution is. The development is complete in less than 20 seconds. The idea is to have just enough development to retain a strong image after fixing, but not so much that the background fogs. I started with just Na2CO3 and added more and more NaHCO3 until the pH was lowered enough... It is not very critical: there is a range where after fixing it is badly fogged, then less fog, then the image is good over a range of pH, and then the image becomes weak and bleached when the pH is too low.

If you are using a different kind of paper, I don't know if this will work, but you might need to adjust the amount of bicarbonate: test by dipping little strips in jars on your desk.... cut up a lumen print....

My recipe is for MGIV and Adorama VC:

1/4 teaspoon sodium carbonate ( washing soda )
3/4 teaspoons sodium bicarbonate ( baking soda )
dissolved in about 2oz. water.

  • Swirl this over the paper ~1 minute ( quickly to avoid development streaks )
  • then a quick wash in water
  • then normal paper stop bath ( only purpose is to help preserve your fixer )
  • then fix in rapid fixer as for a normal print.
All can be done in dim light, no darkroom required, just close the curtains :smile:

The end result should be very similar to my scan #1 above. If you scan and invert this you will find all the detail still present, with a shift toward blues and browns after inverting the colors. But the solargraph will no longer need to be in a dark box. I have left some out on a sunny shelf for over 8 months with no detectable fading.

Have fun!
Ned

P.S. I've been meaning to put this in the articles section. Is the above written clearly enough that I could use it as-is? I know I have a tendency to include too many details and make what is simple seem complicated....
 
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TheToadMen

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P.S. I've been meaning to put this in the articles section. Is the above written clearly enough that I could use it as-is? I know I have a tendency to include too many details and make what is simple seem complicated....

It's totally clear to me.
Maybe one suggestion. I always get confused with measurements like "1/4 teaspoon" and "2oz".
The "oz." part I can covert to liters, but I never know what kind of teaspoons one uses. So maybe you can add a shopping list with exact measures in metric and non-metric system?
Maybe this site can help: http://www.worldwidemetric.com/measurements.html
and http://www.metric-conversions.org
 

MattKing

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It's totally clear to me.
Maybe one suggestion. I always get confused with measurements like "1/4 teaspoon" and "2oz".
The "oz." part I can covert to liters, but I never know what kind of teaspoons one uses. So maybe you can add a shopping list with exact measures in metric and non-metric system?
Maybe this site can help: http://www.worldwidemetric.com/measurements.html
and http://www.metric-conversions.org

+1

And I would add that it is/may be important to differentiate between the various types of ounces - weight vs volume, US vs Imperial.
 
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NedL

NedL

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Bert and Matt, thank you very much! I can certainly do that.

I'll try to emphasize that precision measuring is not necessary. While you can go from a completely black fogged result to a completely bleached white one by varying the pH, there is a broad range with very acceptable results. In my "recipe", anything between about 2 and 3.5 quarter-teaspoon scoops of bicarbonate will work very well. I'll convert everything to grams and ml.

I'm pretty sure you could accomplish the same thing with a weaker solution of just sodium carbonate, but since this works and is so easy I never tried it.

Cheers!
 
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