Polaroid or Fuji?

[Twiggy]

In the context of affordable cameras and films, it seems Instax film has better color (doesn't look washed out) and better contrast.

There are some cameras made for instax films that have glass lenses and many more settings then stock fuji cameras and can take some truly amazing photos. For example lomography instant sqaure.

 

[Kino]

In the late 2000's, I bought a case of wildly out of date Type 55 Polaroid and had a great time with it. Even a decade out of date, most of the packs still worked to a degree.

I have two SX70 cameras, a Sonar and an original Tan SX70 that I enjoy for their engineering, but the film today is not so hot. The new formulation of B&W SX70 film might persuade me to drag them out and try again...

 

[xya]

I think something important changed with Polaroid film between mid and late 2023. It improved a lot. It still takes more time to develop than Fuji film, but colours and contrast are great. Since then my Polaroid camera are in service again. And yes, Polaroid film is still more expensive than Fuji. But I have no complaints about quality.

 

[GregY]

For me Polaroid Type 55 in 4x5 was a bigger loss than Kodachrome

 

[xya]

For my Polaroid Type 55 in 4x5 was a bigger loss than Kodachrome

yes, it was. I would easily pay 10€ per photo if I could have new stock...

 

[Angarian]

I'm looking for an instant camera to shoot square images in color and perhaps B&W, but the choices are daunting. I need a camera that renders sharp pictures, but many that I see are blurry, fuzzy or funky. Polaroid or Fuji? A refurbished SX-70? Mint? I need help.

I really like the quality of Fuji's instax film. But I have to admit that I was really astonished how good the current Polaroid I-type film is when used with the new I-2 camera! I could try it last year on a photo fair.
The film quality has come close to instax. The camera is much better than all the Fuji instax square offerings, and Polaroid's square images are also a bit bigger then Fuji square.

 

[xya]

You are right, Polaroid film has improved a lot. I own the I-2 camera, it's fine, but not cheap. Polaroid film is still very expensive. A pack only has 8 photos.

It's true that Fuji cameras for Wide and Square film are no good. However there are solutions for better results as a back for the Mamiya RB67 for Square or a back for the Mamiya Universal for Wide or conversions of the Fuji 300. Have a look at my website if you are interested https://www.instantphoto.eu/other/other_instant.htm

 

[Donald Qualls]

there are solutions for better results

Not to mention the LomoGraflok that mounts on a 4x5 Graflok back. I have one, and I'm the limitation on it (I don't get it out much, so I'm still learning how to expose the Fuji film manually). A good lens, however, makes a HUGE difference.

 

[Angarian]

You are right, Polaroid film has improved a lot. I own the I-2 camera, it's fine, but not cheap.

Considering what it offers, I think it is reasonably priced.

Polaroid film is still very expensive. A pack only has 8 photos.

It's true that Fuji cameras for Wide and Square film are no good. However there are solutions for better results as a back for the Mamiya RB67 for Square or a back for the Mamiya Universal for Wide or conversions of the Fuji 300. Have a look at my website if you are interested https://www.instantphoto.eu/other/other_instant.htm

Thanks for the link, but I already know your page . Lots of excellent info! I highly appreciate your work.
One question:
now after several years of usage: What is your long-term assessment or final verdict of the Mint Instantkon RF 70 for Instax Wide film?
Has anything changed in comparison to your initial test report?

 

[xya]

Not to mention the LomoGraflok that mounts on a 4x5 Graflok back. I have one, and I'm the limitation on it (I don't get it out much, so I'm still learning how to expose the Fuji film manually). A good lens, however, makes a HUGE difference.

Yes, that one a marvel, it's also on the page I mentioned. What makes me use it less is the 30mm offset, so it's installing the frame under the ground glass, focus, changing the ground glass for the back and pray that nothing has moved. On my camera I can't squeeze the back under the ground glass.

There is an easy gemeral rule to expose Instax film, ISO 400 in low light, 800 in ordinary situations and 1600 in bright sunshine. The only camera I know of to take this into account is the Instakon RF70, second version.

One would wish a Graflok back without offset. I have such a solution for Mamiya Univeral, dark slide included, so it must be possible...

 

[xya]

Considering what it offers, I think it is reasonably priced.

Thanks for the link, but I already know your page . Lots of excellent info! I highly appreciate your work.
One question:
now after several years of usage: What is your long-term assessment or final verdict of the Mint Instantkon RF 70 for Instax Wide film?
Has anything changed in comparison to your initial test report?

Thanks for your appreciation. The Instakon is still the best after some years, seen how easy it is to handle. But there is only one focal length. So most of the time I take either the Mamiya Universal and its Instax back or a modified Instax 300 which takes the Mamiya optics. And as I love wide angles, there is the superwide Instax that option8 made for me.

Seen the resolution of Polaroid and Instax film, I would wish another Fuji Wide camera, a tele and a wide adapter for it and the exposure system of the Neo 90. That one gets it right, so Fuji is capable to do it.

 

[Angarian]

Thanks for your appreciation. The Instakon is still the best after some years, seen how easy it is to handle.

Thank you very much for the reply. Very helpful info!

 

[OrientPoint]

Yes, that one a marvel, it's also on the page I mentioned. What makes me use it less is the 30mm offset, so it's installing the frame under the ground glass, focus, changing the ground glass for the back and pray that nothing has moved. On my camera I can't squeeze the back under the ground glass.

One would wish a Graflok back without offset. I have such a solution for Mamiya Univeral, dark slide included, so it must be possible...

The LomoGraflok works well with cameras like Speed Graphic where you can offset the front standard 30mm rather than using the spacer.

 

[Donald Qualls]

What makes me use it less is the 30mm offset,

The LomoGraflok works well with cameras like Speed Graphic where you can offset the front standard 30mm rather than using the spacer.

Exactly. When out with the LomoGraflok, I reset the infinity stops to account for the offset and use the Kalart rangefinder that came with the camera (already calibrated for the 135 mm Tessar I keep on that camera). Like shooting a big, heavy, manual Polaroid 350 -- but one I can buy film for and costs about the same to feed as a 6x9 on 120.

Honestly, my biggest complaint about Instax is that the super-glossy surface makes it hard to digitize the prints to show on the web.

 

[hsandler]

Honestly, my biggest complaint about Instax is that the super-glossy surface makes it hard to digitize the prints to show on the web.

I put the Instax prints in an empty cartridge to scan on a flatbed. It keeps the glossy surface just off the platen so no Newton’s rings. And I like the black border.

Ford by Howard Sandler, on Flickr

 

[Angarian]

I put the Instax prints in an empty cartridge to scan on a flatbed. It keeps the glossy surface just off the platen so no Newton’s rings. And I like the black border.

Ford by Howard Sandler, on Flickr

Wow, that looks indeed very good!!

Both the photo and the scan.
Which camera have you used for this shot?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I've been quite happy with my Grandpa's SX-70 from the 70's, and current SX-70 colour and B/W films. But be sure to use them well before the expiry date.

 

[hsandler]

Wow, that looks indeed very good!!

Both the photo and the scan.
Which camera have you used for this shot?

Thanks. Crown Graphic with Schneider Xenar 135mm f4.7. I can focus with the rangefinder, but I usually stop down to at least f16 with Instax.

 

[Angarian]

Thanks. Crown Graphic with Schneider Xenar 135mm f4.7. I can focus with the rangefinder, but I usually stop down to at least f16 with Instax.

Thanks!
It demonstrates once again how excellent Fuji instax film is in combination with a good lens.

 

[eli griggs]

For me Polaroid Type 55 in 4x5 was a bigger loss than Kodachrome

Ditto

 

[fstop]

The LomoGraflok works well with cameras like Speed Graphic where you can offset the front standard 30mm rather than using the spacer.

Been playing with a Lomograflok back and there are a few things that are inconvenient but with a little thought most of these issues can be over come.
I adapted a digital dial indicator to clamp on the rail Cambo square rail. Probably need another clamp for round rails, just zero it and dial over the amount you need. I read somewhere it was 21.86mm, haven't brought the backs in to the inspection room to measure for myself yet.
(I run a manufacturing company )
It can go on the front or rear.Cost less than 40 bucks at Amazon (where else)
Camvate clamp 1122 and 20 dollar indicator
Doesn't interfere with movements. Gives precise measurement. works well but my next move is to make a dedicated clamp.

 

[xya]

Yes, that one a marvel, it's also on the page I mentioned. What makes me use it less is the 30mm offset,..

I have to correct a mistype, it's 20mm, not 30mm. So sorry...