Polaroid 669 vs 690 and image transfers

[jasonjoo]

Hey folks,

I was wondering what the differences between Polaroid 669 and 690 was. I've shot a few 669 polaroids, but never 690. I found the colors not too accurate with the 669 film. I'm mainly interested in using these films for image transfers. Good color reproduction would be nice, but not crucial.

Also, while I'm asking, how long do you usually develop your polaroids when doing image transfers?

The particular instants films that I will be using are:

Polaroid 667, 669 and 690
Fujifilm FP-100C (I read on a flickr thread to develop for 20 seconds. Any other suggestions?)

Lastly, I would appreciate any advice or tips when doing an image transfer. It seems like Arches 88 is a paper that some people like to use (at least thats what I gained from the flickr thread I read through). Either Arches 88 or watercolor paper that has not been sized. Are there any other techniques that might be useful to know? Also, whats a good way to coat these image transfers so they can keep their colors and last for a few years?

Thanks,

Jason

 

[jasonjoo]

Yikes no one eh?

Hmm well I have yet another question. Is it possible to do an image transfer with Polaroid 667? I would try on my own, but I have about 9 sheets of 669 left in my Land camera and I really don't want to waste any of my 667 polaroids on experimenting :X

Thanks,

Jason

 

[ann]

i have not tried the667, why not just call the polariod customer folks and they can tell you.

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks Ann, I haven't thought of that (duh!). I'll give them a call later this week

 

[ann]

they have always been very helful and have a lot of technical knowledge, at least they did. I hope they haven't all throw in the towel.

 

[HerrBremerhaven]

I have done both 669 and 690 emulsion transfers. I do the 690 transfers dry, peeling at about 30 seconds then placing onto paper. The other trick is to peel apart away from direct light (I do the peel upside down). If light hits the 690 prior to getting to your paper, you can get an overall yellow cast to the image. If you get that yellow cast, then you can run water slowly over the image and very gently rub your finger across the yellow areas. That action can also be used to lighten areas slightly.

The main difference is that 690 is more vibrant and slightly better contrast than 669. So instead of muted emulsion transfers, you get much more saturated colours. Overall I like the 690 transfers more than the 669 transfers.

After trying many papers I have stuck with one for all my Polaroid manipulations. That is Fabriano acquarello Artistico Extra White Grana Satinata Hot Pressed Watercolour. This paper comes in blocks, though it is easy enough to cut to size with an Xacto. I usually get the 23x30.5cm 300g/m2, which gives 20 sheets, or roughly 80 Polaroid sized pieces of paper.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks Gordon,, that was very helpful! Do you happen to know if working with a safelight will prevent the yellow cast from appearing?

Thanks,

Jason

 

[HerrBremerhaven]

I suppose if 690 was used with Safelight, or the Fuji FP100C method of in the dark pulls, then there might be no yellow cast. I haven't really tried it that way. I do roller it for a longer time period than 669 film; when I tried shorter duration rolling I found 690 had more tendency to not stick to the paper.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat Photography