Plus-X green base

[StoneNYC]

Just developed 2 rolls of Plus-x and one roll of ilford pan f+ TOGETHER as the pan f+ needed a little push anyway.

I've never used Plus-X and only have 2 rolls left, but it came out with a really green base, I use brand new developer mixed and recent stop/fix. After I noticed the green I RE-FIXED one of the rolls for an additional 3 minutes, it didn't seem to change anything.

So is this normal? I was using Ilfsol 3. And ilford stop and rapid fix.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[StoneNYC]

Example, I did my best, it's hard to show it properly...

Ilford pan f+ nest to plus-x

The ilford was a slight bit pink?, but green was more noticeable.

I really only fixed one other film in it before about 2 weeks ago, the fixer should last longer... And I already fixed it 1 minute more than normal.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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[RalphLambrecht]

looks like the early 'safety' film of the 1960s. probably normal,but try two-bath fixing,followed by hca and a complete wash next time.

 

[artonpaper]

My experience with Plus X is that it always retained some color after fixing. The color will not affect the print or scan quality. It sometimes can be reduced by using a hypo clearing agent.

 

[JLP]

I still have few rolls left of Plus-X in 35mm (Exp 2004) with a green base so i would say it is normal. Newer Plus-X in 35mm does not have the green base.
As Artonpaper is saying printing or scanning is not affected by the color.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I've had that happen to me as well, when processed in HC-110.

 

[StoneNYC]

Thanks guys, it expired in 2002 so I'm not sure if its new or old in terms of Plus-X history. But good to know.

I'm unfamiliar with two bath fixer...

I don't own any hypo clear, I've only recently been aware of it, and some say they never use it, others always, and so it's just another step to make the whole thing take longer, but I'll pick some up next time I'm any B&H...

Hypo makes the wash time shorter right? Can you use it in the tank or is it like wetting agent where it can affect the tank plastic so you have to use it in another container?

Thanks guys.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattKing]

Thanks guys, it expired in 2002 so I'm not sure if its new or old in terms of Plus-X history. But good to know.

I'm unfamiliar with two bath fixer...

I don't own any hypo clear, I've only recently been aware of it, and some say they never use it, others always, and so it's just another step to make the whole thing take longer, but I'll pick some up next time I'm any B&H...

Hypo makes the wash time shorter right? Can you use it in the tank or is it like wetting agent where it can affect the tank plastic so you have to use it in another container?

Thanks guys.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

2002 means it is the second most recent version of Plus-X - you need to be sure that you use the older times that apply to it.

And Stone, I have a request.

Please do not refer to Hypo Clearing Agent as "Hypo". "Hypo" is an old name for fixer. "Hypo Clearing Agent" is still the name for what should be referred to as "Fixer Clearing Agent" or Wash Aid. If you call something "Hypo", all of us "older" photographers are likely to become confused, and think you are talking about fixer.

 

[BradS]

Thanks guys, it expired in 2002 so I'm not sure if its new or old in terms of Plus-X history. But good to know.

I'm unfamiliar with two bath fixer...

I don't own any hypo clear, I've only recently been aware of it, and some say they never use it, others always, and so it's just another step to make the whole thing take longer, but I'll pick some up next time I'm any B&H...

Hypo makes the wash time shorter right? Can you use it in the tank or is it like wetting agent where it can affect the tank plastic so you have to use it in another container?

Thanks guys.


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, Hypo Clearing Agent (Hypo is another name for fixer) does allow for less time washing.
Regarding the green color cast...Its been a very long time since i used any Plus-X but, I do not remember it having a green tinted base...which doesn't mean anything. I would guess however, that the color may wash out with extended washing/soaking in slightly warmer water (eg around 30 degrees C).

 

[Terry Christian]

Are you using a pre-wash step before developer? If not, then the green (or any other color) is simply the film's antihalation dye. It will mostly come off in a couple of prewashes. If not, the rest should come off during the fix and HCA steps.

 

[StoneNYC]

2002 means it is the second most recent version of Plus-X - you need to be sure that you use the older times that apply to it.

And Stone, I have a request.

Please do not refer to Hypo Clearing Agent as "Hypo". "Hypo" is an old name for fixer. "Hypo Clearing Agent" is still the name for what should be referred to as "Fixer Clearing Agent" or Wash Aid. If you call something "Hypo", all of us "older" photographers are likely to become confused, and think you are talking about fixer.

Ahhh!!! I knew that! Sorry, I just had this discussion in another post and learned that, my mistake sorry.

I ALWAYS pre-wash, I like to get all color out before developing.

And I washed for much longer than normal and I RE-fixed (re-hypo'd hehe) one of the rolls because I worried I hadn't fixed it for long enough but that didn't change the base after 3.5 additional minutes of fixing... And then washed it Again... And both films looked identical.

Perhaps it's the dev times? I was using Ilfsol 3 but I can't look up the times for that since I'm pretty sure it didn't exist when the "older" second most recent version was out.

What was the time difference between the second newest and the newest version? I still have 2 more rolls. I shot them at 1 to 1/2 slower than box (125ASA) speed because of the '10 years one stop slower' rule, unless its one of those films that is supposed to be shot different than box speed, it should have been ok, I found it slightly under exposed as opposed to my pan f+ which was perfect. (Except my macro shots which I compensated for the extender tubes but stupidly forgot to compensate for bellows extension doh!!).

Could it just be that the film fogs green from age?


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattKing]

Here is the data sheet for the older, Plus-X Pan.

Not to be confused with the more recent, Professional Plus-X.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f8/f8.pdf

 

[StoneNYC]

Here is the data sheet for the older, Plus-X Pan.

Not to be confused with the more recent, Professional Plus-X.

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f8/f8.pdf

OH I think the film digits on the top said PXP... I'm not home but I can check tomorrow, so I think that means its plus x professional...

I followed the times on the massive dev chart app/website.

Hmmm mystery continues...


~Stone

The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic

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