Or spend a couple decades doing off n'on duplications like I did, and you get a good feel for what films and developers are the most appropriate for any given project. When in doubt, go with something in the mid-range of characteristics, like FP4 these days. Sometimes the big labs would substitute DK50 for HC-110 for sake of cost saving. Good ole D76 has certain bad habits if you don't understand it needs to be used at pH equilibrium. It's the basic Ford/Chevy developer - certainly no Ferrari. And I'd never use it for serious straight line applications like matched color separation negs. HC-110 can be diluted and modified into way more configurations than 76. But now the duplication and restoration trade have gone almost entirely digital. And that's the only application where I optionally use a digital camera myself - at the copy stand. A sneaky little trick I sometimes employ to shorten the toe and make it steeper is to add a tiny amount of 1% benzotriazole to the HC-110, which acts as a "toe cutter".
But, Lachlan, the official published curves I was just viewing a day or two ago were specifically for BOTH 2127 and 4147, and done in 76, and showed a rather long toe. How do you explain that? In fact, it's the same set of curves you linked in the duplicating manual (which I also own). That is a long toe. Period. Just compare it to the Super-XX page. This is all academic of course, since both of those films are now obsolete.