Please need help. Hasselblad 500cm doesn't fire and cant remove lens
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- Thread starter galupi20
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Did you try it with the back off?
First step - as campy51 said, remove the back and see if it fires. If it does, then the problem is with your interlock, likely in the back, not the body. A fairly easy repair, and can be done by any reasonably handy DIYer. Search YouTube or find another back.
If it still doesn't fire (I'm betting this is the case) then you might have the dreaded lens jam. Try, GENTLY, to remove the lens from the body. If it doesn't come off easily, and you feel a strong resistance, you are probably there.
Here's a good video on the DIY process to fix this, if you don't want to send it off for service. The subtitles are awful, but the procedure is shown quite clearly.
Unlike the guy in the video, you should wear cotton gloves when you're pushing the rear shutter in to get at the cocking screw mechanism. You need to be very careful in this part of the operation as the rear shutter is quite fragile.
Once you have jammed an uncocked lens on a Hasselblad body, you will never forget to check the positions of the lens and body cocking system to make sure they're both in the correct place. Don't ask me how I know this.
Andy
If it still doesn't fire (I'm betting this is the case) then you might have the dreaded lens jam. Try, GENTLY, to remove the lens from the body. If it doesn't come off easily, and you feel a strong resistance, you are probably there.
Here's a good video on the DIY process to fix this, if you don't want to send it off for service. The subtitles are awful, but the procedure is shown quite clearly.
Unlike the guy in the video, you should wear cotton gloves when you're pushing the rear shutter in to get at the cocking screw mechanism. You need to be very careful in this part of the operation as the rear shutter is quite fragile.
Once you have jammed an uncocked lens on a Hasselblad body, you will never forget to check the positions of the lens and body cocking system to make sure they're both in the correct place. Don't ask me how I know this.
Andy
Also, use a correct sized screwdriver, if you do no have a set, Harbor Freight sells just about any sort of screwdriver you could want and most od it is very good quality, with a lifetime warranty on most if no all.
The 'give away' screwdriver sets that you can pick up from time to time free, with a purchase are good enough and less than $4 but two other options you might visit is the plastic protected "electricians" set, as the plastic shaft will make interior contacts no big deal, but they still have metal heads exposed.
Getting these for about $10 might just save your life of the life of someone using them in the future, as they are rated up to1,000 volts and who amongst us does no need a insulated screwdriver around the house, truck or for a Vivitar Flash repair, but never actually buy one, risking electrocution with the wrong tool, forever?
Get the full sized set, they also offer a precision set for about $9 but it's too small for this game.
The third set you might look at, especially if you never need to fool about with electricity, and electrical gadgets, is the blue, bolstered set, which is a good general set with fine enough smaller fathead (3/16" up in slotted) to do the job you need and, you'll have a set drivers that can be torqued in place with a socket or pliers for frozen screws on non-camera kit.
$12.
Make sure you magnetize the head of the screwdriver you'll be using to remove/return screws, and if you cock the lens with a driver, first set the lens, face down on a rock solid surface and cover the opening to the lens interior with your 'free' hand so no slip of the screwdriver will stab into the inner glass/workings, advance the mechanism.
It's an easy repair and you'll be fine, just take your time.
IMO.
The 'give away' screwdriver sets that you can pick up from time to time free, with a purchase are good enough and less than $4 but two other options you might visit is the plastic protected "electricians" set, as the plastic shaft will make interior contacts no big deal, but they still have metal heads exposed.
Getting these for about $10 might just save your life of the life of someone using them in the future, as they are rated up to1,000 volts and who amongst us does no need a insulated screwdriver around the house, truck or for a Vivitar Flash repair, but never actually buy one, risking electrocution with the wrong tool, forever?
Get the full sized set, they also offer a precision set for about $9 but it's too small for this game.
The third set you might look at, especially if you never need to fool about with electricity, and electrical gadgets, is the blue, bolstered set, which is a good general set with fine enough smaller fathead (3/16" up in slotted) to do the job you need and, you'll have a set drivers that can be torqued in place with a socket or pliers for frozen screws on non-camera kit.
$12.
Make sure you magnetize the head of the screwdriver you'll be using to remove/return screws, and if you cock the lens with a driver, first set the lens, face down on a rock solid surface and cover the opening to the lens interior with your 'free' hand so no slip of the screwdriver will stab into the inner glass/workings, advance the mechanism.
It's an easy repair and you'll be fine, just take your time.
IMO.
For $20 at BH get a camera key. Remove the back and see what position the reset screw is in. If not in correct position turn it with the key. See if you can gently/easily remove the lens. If so cock the shutter curtain and press the shutter button. Try it a few times to see if it is working properly. Then check the set screw on the lens and reset if necessary. If you have another lens check that screw and if it is okay cock the shutter and put it on the camera. Try releasing the shutter. If okay try it a couple of times. If it works cock the shutter, remove the lens and try with the original lens. If it works the the lens and body are okay. Cock the shutter and replace the back. If it all works it was just one of those Hasselblad quirks. If not you know it is the back. If you already took it apart as in the video, hopefully you get it back together. Don't lose any parts.
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