Please help with an old beast: ilford 400HL trouble

[amandahuginkiss]

Hi all,

I have two issues with my Ilford 400HL multigrade enlarger head.

Most importantly: one of the two bulbs is no longer illuminating and I believe the problem lies with the lamp-holder (the bulbs themselves are fine as I've tested them on the still working holder - unless it is something to do with wiring/circuitry in the timer, which is beyond my current knowledge).

If it is the lamp-holder that has stopped working, the exact replacement (QCX-34-12") seems to be discontinued and only available in the states with pricey shipping fees. The original lamp-holder actually seems to have much higher max capacity wattage and voltage (750w 300v) (see ebay listing here) than the bulbs specified in manual - 30v 80w.

So my question is, what voltage and wattage should I be looking for in a replacement lampolder? Will a 25V, wattage unspecified one do? (here) I also assume high temperature wire/ceramic/halogen would be preferable, but is there anything else I need to be aware of.

My second subsequent issue is whether it will be okay to power this set-up from the mains. Before one of the lamps stopped working, I was powering the enlarger from the mains via the ilford 400C control unit. As far as I can tell this is what the manual recommends, and it worked happily for 6 months. I am just checking I do not need a transistor for this?

Many thanks for your help in advance - i would appreciate any advice!

thank you!

 

[koraks]

Welcome aboard @amandahuginkiss !

Will a 25V, wattage unspecified one do? (here)

Sorry, that link doesn't work; please try posting it again.
In general, the socket will need to have equal or higher ratings for, voltage, current and power to the actual application parameters. So if it's actually a 30V bulb, the socket should be rated for at least 30V. However, I don't expect a 25V-rated socket will present a problem if it's run at 30V since there's not a whole lot to go wrong in that sense. Current and/or power ratings are more important for both the leads and the contacts in the socket.

As far as I can tell this is what the manual recommends, and it worked happily for 6 months.

So that should be fine; if the head is rated for your mains voltage, it should be OK.

I do not need a transistor for this?

You mean a transformer. This can be required if you run e.g. a device rated for US mains of 115V from a 230V outlet or vice versa. Again, if the device is rated for the outlet voltage, you don't need a transformer.

I can't help you on the specific options for the bulb sockets other than voicing my expectation that there are likely plenty of suitable sockets on the market that can be had for a pittance. It's been ages since I got rid of my Ilford multigrade head though.

Edit: a quick search shows that the bulbs fit into a GX5.3 socket, you might want to search for that and purchase a couple of porcelain sockets that seem to fit the bill and then install/transplant those.

PS:

The bulbs themselves are fine as I've tested them on the still working holder - unless it is something to do with wiring/circuitry in the timer, which is beyond my current knowledge

Failure of the contacts in the bulb socket is indeed a likely scenario, but by far not the only possibility. However, it's a decent enough place to start as a replacement socket is fairly cheap and easy to install. You might also try cleaning the contacts in the present socket as a 'failed' socket is often a problem of corrosion/oxidation/fouling of the contacts. Ensure that the enlarger is unplugged from the outlet and take a sharp implement (a sturdy needle etc.) and try to remove whatever muck is on the contacts. Sometimes the contacts can be physically removed from the socket, making it a little easier to clean the contact surface. I don't recommend this as a permanent solution, but it can temporarily work to demonstrate if the socket is indeed the problem.

 

[Ron789]

The specs of the lamp holder are irrelevant, except the type/size. The lamp holder is a very simple thing, when it fits, it works. I replaced a lamp holder some time ago in one of my Ilford 500H heads; just make sure it has the right size.
The head must be powered through the original Ilford power supply. No transistor or transformer required.
But.... the power supply is the weak part of this system. I had one burning out a couple of years back; dead, no repair possible. That's why on eBay you can find lots of replacement units for this system, except the power supply!
Nowadays I have 3 complete 500 systems but I use only one power supply on a regular basis, I connect the enlarger head I need to use by switching cables. The other 2 power supplies are spares, I power them on once or twice a year. To do so I use a Variac, slowly powering up. Switching power on for an electronic device not used for a long time and aging may blow up electronic components.

 

[Melvin J Bramley]

The bulb holders are inexpensive on Amazon, I bought a package of them and used them on my old Durst and more recently a Ilford 400 lamp house.
Given that the two bulbs are independently controlled I suggest checking the voltage on the connector strip at the back of the lamphouse. I think the neutral wire is common and the power has two connections.
Mine had an issue with the bulb holders not making good contact and the voltage surge blew one bulb. Fortunately it was a cheap easy fix.
Bulbs are difficult to find!
Hope this helps.

 

[amandahuginkiss]

@Melvin J Bramley @Ron789 @koraks -- many thanks for all your replies! these are all very helpful. This clears up everything about the power supply / transformer.

Will check out the contacts and the connector strip before changing the lamp-holder. @Melvin J Bramley - if you have any further advice on changing ilford 400 lamphouse, I would greatly appreciate it. Is the idea to solder away the old lamp-holder and then solder in the new one in the same connections? many thanks again for your help.

 

[Melvin J Bramley]

@Melvin J Bramley @Ron789 @koraks -- many thanks for all your replies! these are all very helpful. This clears up everything about the power supply / transformer.

Will check out the contacts and the connector strip before changing the lamp-holder. @Melvin J Bramley - if you have any further advice on changing ilford 400 lamphouse, I would greatly appreciate it. Is the idea to solder away the old lamp-holder and then solder in the new one in the same connections? many thanks again for your help.

I purchased a pack of bulb connectors on line.
I just cut the wires and crimp connected them to the lamp holders as the wire provided were not long enough to reach the barrier strip at the back.
A good crimp connection is more than adequate.

 

[Lachlan Young]

My second subsequent issue is whether it will be okay to power this set-up from the mains. Before one of the lamps stopped working, I was powering the enlarger from the mains via the ilford 400C control unit.

I've ended up with a 400HL head as well - albeit one that has been altered to run off the 30v circuit that some of the MG500 power supplies have (for the 500HLX head for the Focomat 1c) - the controller is doing some fairly clever stuff (for the time) to get min-max contrast ('4' on the MG400 controller is really '5' with any newer paper than the version of Multigrade that the head was originally intended for), but no reason you could not rewire it to run off a suitable modern 30v power supply in split-grade form.

 

[monst]

I have a working 400 head and controller and am based in London that i will be putting up for sale shortly if that would be of any use.

 

[amandahuginkiss]

You might also try cleaning the contacts in the present socket as a 'failed' socket is often a problem of corrosion/oxidation/fouling of the contacts. Ensure that the enlarger is unplugged from the outlet and take a sharp implement (a sturdy needle etc.) and try to remove whatever muck is on the contacts. Sometimes the contacts can be physically removed from the socket, making it a little easier to clean the contact surface. I don't recommend this as a permanent solution, but it can temporarily work to demonstrate if the socket is indeed the problem.

this ended up being the solution for all interested - many thanks for your replies!!

 

[koraks]

Thanks for the feedback, good to hear this helped!