platinum print from paper negative

[Zarr]

Is it possible to use a paper negative for a platinum/palladium print?
Or does it only work with transparency negatives?

 

[koraks]

In principle it'll work, but exposure times may be a bit long due to the blocking of light in the paper base. You could try waxing a negative to make it more transparent. There may be issues with mottling due to the texture of the paper itself depending on what kind of paper you use.

 

[Cloudy]

My experience is that you can only do contact prints, but I remember reading of people who enlarged paper negatives, I just don't know how they did it.

I photographed on 8x10 resin coated paper and I contact printed it, all of this using traditional silver based paper, not platinum, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on platinum.

If you are concerned about the texture showing up, use resin coated

 

[Zarr]

Thank you.
This was my first thought too, but I could not find any example online of someone who did this
Platinum is a bit too expensive to just try and see.
For the best results, I'd better make a transparent , digital negative of my paper neg I think?

 

[Zarr]

Thank you Cloudy,
I've tried contact printing with silver gelatin paper. Works fine with both FB and PE papernegs.
Just wondering if they used paper negatives for palladium printing in the old days, or only glass negs.
I think the latter

 

[koraks]

For the best results, I'd better make a transparent , digital negative of my paper neg I think?

That's a more feasible route, yes. Or real negatives of course.

 

[removed account4]

Thank you Cloudy,
I've tried contact printing with silver gelatin paper. Works fine with both FB and PE papernegs.
Just wondering if they used paper negatives for palladium printing in the old days, or only glass negs.
I think the latter

hi Zarr
if your paper negatives are printed on very thin paper and then you wax them yes you can do it and it works well. what I have done (sorry I i don't have scans of PT/PD to show you that I actually did it ) was either make inverted negatives on my cheap ink jet printer ( I have a epson 640expresson all in one .. cost $65 new so you don't really need to listen to people that say you need a printer that costs hundreds or thousands of dollars ) or I have sent files to a Xerox / copy shop to make basically laser printed copies ( also on overhead transparency film for like 70¢/8x10) since that is what all the copy shops use at the moment, not olde school xerographic technology ... I heat up a pan on the stove and rub paraffin on it until it a bit more transparent, and then I made alt process prints from those waxed prints... cyanotypes, salt prints, pt/pd, albumen, kaliotype, ziatype and gum bichromate. they came out fine, and in some cases the negatives from paper and the extremely inexpensive ink jet printer came out better than my classmates who were using the wide format epson the school lets us use and pictorico ink jet negative media. the trick is NOT using modern photo paper because it is too dense ( nothing around anymore that is single weight ) unless of course you do an emulsion lift / peel or coat your own .. some Japanese papers are as transparent as photographic film when waxed and super fun to coat with photo emulsion. if you go the coat your own route .. its not too hard to learn how to coat your own glass or paper with photo emulsion these days, still another skill set to master though and a lot of online resources .. nothing like the dark ages of the 1980s/1990s you can make your internegative on paper or glass or buy some of Jason Lane's dry plages which are beautiful and work very well with PT/PD
here's one of Ian Leake's from a JLane plate ... https://www.photrio.com/forum/media/calathea-–-platinum-print.64132/
here's one that I did that was a gum print from a cheap cellphone snappy printed on cheap ink jet and then printed .. 2 layers over cyanotype ... not sure if you have your own light source but having a UV light bank cuts down on exposure times and a light bank can be made these days inexpensively, or an inexpensive silk screen uv unit, or early 20th century contact printer can be re-bulbed with a lizard warming bulbs &c from a pet store.
good luck + have fun !

 

[wyofilm]

The cyanotype process is CHEAP! It also requires more exposure than Pt/Pd. So, the ideal technique for testing your idea. If it works well for cyanotype, I can't see it not working well for Pt/Pd.