Pink stain problems with TF-4 + HP5+

[Tumbles]

I haven't had much of a chance to mess with with film processing in the past month.

I just mixed up batch of hypoclear with 20g of sodium sulfite per liter, and I gave it a try. It didn't make much of a difference in getting out the pink stain. I had to give it second fix with TF-3, and it washed the stain out the same as before. For the first fixer I made sure to use fresh TF-4 fixer.

If I'm going to have to fix twice with TF-4 fixer and HP5+, I guess I can live with that.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I haven't had much of a chance to mess with with film processing in the past month.

I just mixed up batch of hypoclear with 20g of sodium sulfite per liter, and I gave it a try. It didn't make much of a difference in getting out the pink stain. I had to give it second fix with TF-3, and it washed the stain out the same as before. For the first fixer I made sure to use fresh TF-4 fixer.

If I'm going to have to fix twice with TF-4 fixer and HP5+, I guess I can live with that.

View attachment 355029

I think the reason TF-3 works better than TF-4 is that it is probably more alkaline. It seems that the stain washes out more quickly in a more alkaline environment. As I've posted before, when I have stain problems (really stubborn with some batches of TMY), I use an alkaline bath after the fix. I've used carbonate, bicarbonate and the spend developer. All worked better than a wash aid.

Best,

Doremus

 

[Sirius Glass]

I haven't had much of a chance to mess with with film processing in the past month.

I just mixed up batch of hypoclear with 20g of sodium sulfite per liter, and I gave it a try. It didn't make much of a difference in getting out the pink stain. I had to give it second fix with TF-3, and it washed the stain out the same as before. For the first fixer I made sure to use fresh TF-4 fixer.

If I'm going to have to fix twice with TF-4 fixer and HP5+, I guess I can live with that.

View attachment 355029

That was my experience. I used the fixer for twice the clearing time for fixer, and if necessary a few minutes more, followed by washing times with water flowing through trays or the film holding container. After working out what worked the best for me, has gotten rid of the pink stains. So twice the fixing time may work well for you.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have no issues with a 2-times fix routine.

It's actually not a sign of underfixing, even though I am a fan of the 2-fix procedure. The pink stain is a residue of the anti-halation layer in the film. thorough washing or often an added bath of hypo clearing agent will take care of it. If not, not a problem, it does not harm at all.

 

[Scott J.]

The pink stain is a residue of the anti-halation layer in the film.

Is that correct? My understanding was that the pink/magenta stain is a residue from the sensitizing dyes employed in the emulsion to increase the film speed beyond what the suite of silver halides alone could achieve.

 

[pentaxuser]

Admittedly I have nearly always used Ilford Rapid Fixer but occasionally Tetenal's similar product and have never seen in 18 years of using HP5+ any stain. Not even a trace

Is there maybe something different about TF4 fixer that causes this effect?

pentaxuser

 

[Sirius Glass]

It's actually not a sign of underfixing, even though I am a fan of the 2-fix procedure. The pink stain is a residue of the anti-halation layer in the film. thorough washing or often an added bath of hypo clearing agent will take care of it. If not, not a problem, it does not harm at all.

Besides being annoying, can the pink color change the exposure of black & white variable paper? I have often wondered that.

 

[mcarmo]

I've just returned to the darkroom after a long hiatus from darkroom work, but it's always been part of my process to fill the developer tank with water and then pour it out straight away, right before introducing the developer. I'm not sure anymore what the point of this procedure is, but could it be that it helps to avoid the stains you're talking about?
In some rolls the water comes out purple or green (Fuji Acros releases a dark purple water).
I often use the HP5+ film, and always use Ilford Rapid Fixer, observing the indicated fixing times, and I never have the stain problem.

 

[takilmaboxer]

I once ran an experiment with Tmax film that had persistent pink stain. I took a strip of the film (after normal processing, it was still pink), and divided it in two. I put one strip in fixer and simply left it there. I took the other and put in slowly running water. Both strips cleared perfectly after ten minutes or so.
The moral of the story is, plenty of fixing and washing will clear the pink.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I've just returned to the darkroom after a long hiatus from darkroom work, but it's always been part of my process to fill the developer tank with water and then pour it out straight away, right before introducing the developer. I'm not sure anymore what the point of this procedure is, but could it be that it helps to avoid the stains you're talking about?
In some rolls the water comes out purple or green (Fuji Acros releases a dark purple water).
I often use the HP5+ film, and always use Ilford Rapid Fixer, observing the indicated fixing times, and I never have the stain problem.

The halation layer is usually the cause of those colors.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Just how many threads have there been on this same subject? I used TF4 fixer for a long time, one-shot, of course, and only 5 min. Now I use TF5 instead. Same result. Within five minutes of washing after the fix, all the residual pink is gone. Of course, I wash the film somewhat longer overall.