Pinhole swirls

[Perry Way]

So, look for example at the effect of the strong street light in right section of this image (Zero Image 4x5), very much comparable to the rays caused by the sun in the images of 1SharpMonkey, you just have to accept it...:

Marco

That is no streetlight! That is a wicked Tesla coil spitting out tendrils of high energy plasma! Actually, on a serious note, that is very very cool. If the effect I noticed on my sample shot I uploaded was limited to a tiny area then it would be awesome. Average people would be drawn to it thinking it was some kind of special effect or special filter or something.

Okay that settles things. I'm buying a Zero Image 4x5 75B Deluxe. Marco was this shot taken with only one body section? (25mm) Also, do you have one of the regular shutters or do you have the remote shutter system? I'm really thinking about the remote shutter so I don't have to fumble with bending over the camera to work the shutter. Just curious about feedback on quality/workmanship since you're the first person who mentioned having the 4x5 model.

 

[Marco B]

That is no streetlight! That is a wicked Tesla coil spitting out tendrils of high energy plasma! .

Hehehe, yes, I got a free X-Ray in the process of making this photo

Okay that settles things. I'm buying a Zero Image 4x5 75B Deluxe. Marco was this shot taken with only one body section? (25mm) Also, do you have one of the regular shutters or do you have the remote shutter system? I'm really thinking about the remote shutter so I don't have to fumble with bending over the camera to work the shutter. Just curious about feedback on quality/workmanship since you're the first person who mentioned having the 4x5 model.

Yes, it was just the 25mm section. Be sure to buy a good supply of elastic bands(?) to couple multiple sections. Also note that there is huuuuggggeee light fall off to the corners, which I did combat in these shots using a printing method described in one of my postings in (there was a url link here which no longer exists). Scroll down to see my second post with photos and explanation how I printed them to combat the light fall off.

The workmanship of the camera is very good, of the shutter system a bit less, but I have the version with the remote shutter. Just be aware that the thread the remote release must be screwed in, only allows it be screwed in a little. Therefor there is the risk of breaking of from the shutter system and the need to buy a new remote release...

Is it handy? Well, depends. If you intend to shoot under strong light, with exposures of less than maybe 4 seconds, the remote release is probably handier than using the normal shutter system (sliding down of a small piece of wood covering pinhole - which still can be used in the version with shutter!).

With long exposures, it is no problem. You can just as well slide the cover down. All in all, I have used the remote release quite a lot though, maybe just out of habit...

One last tip:

I made only one tiny adjustement to the camera. The pinhole plate that you can turn to allow for the changing depth of the camera when adding additional sections, is hard to turn by hand since you don't have "grip" on it. I glued a tiny (0.2x0.4 inch) section of fine sandpaper onto the plate, which makes it much easier to turn it.

Marco

 

[Marco B]

Oh yeh, for those interested. The night pinhole photo was on TMax 400 and had an exposure time of 25 minutes, printed on Ilford Warmtone RC and selenium toned. I recommend anywhere from 20-45 minutes for night time photos with the Zero Image 4x5 camera in 25mm configuration (and probably also in the other configurations, as contrary to the stated F of 138, you need to overexpose in 25mm configuration by about 1 stop, due to the light fall off, to get a decent exposure) ON TMAX 400! On other film types, it may be hours...

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Marco, I'm actually thinking about buying one of those 4x5 Zeros. I would use it with a roll film back to make 6x7 images. Mostly just so that it's easier to wind film from frame to frame, and getting the negative to stay flat in the transport. It's also much easier to load a roll film back than the flimsy Zero 6x6 camera.
220 film is another reason. Or even using Ilford Delta 3200 for night shots. And finally, it would give me the opportunity to shoot sheets if I really wanted to.

Miles Nelson (MVNelson) posts images from his 4x5 Zero once in a while, and they are very good also. I believe he uses the triple extension to 75mm focal length. The 25mm seems awfully wide for 4x5, but obviously has some applications where it's beneficial (re: Marco's excellent photograph).

- Thomas

 

[Marco B]

Marco, I'm actually thinking about buying one of those 4x5 Zeros. I would use it with a roll film back to make 6x7 images. Mostly just so that it's easier to wind film from frame to frame, and getting the negative to stay flat in the transport. It's also much easier to load a roll film back than the flimsy Zero 6x6 camera.

The back of the 4x5 Zero Image is very well designed and takes the normal 4x5 holders and I have also had no problems at all with the Fuji Packfilm holder for 4x5 instant film. Just buy some good elastic bands to hold your holders or back! The ones that come in the package, are not the best, and it is just a few.

The 25mm seems awfully wide for 4x5, but obviously has some applications where it's beneficial (re: Marco's excellent photograph).
- Thomas

Thanks for the compliment Yes, it takes some getting used to, framing the 25mm version. Actually, you may not have realized it, but the structures disappearing in the shadows in the upper left corner of the night shot, are actually some 40 to 50 meters high up in the sky. Only by using the super wide angle version of the pinhole, was I able to capture it all in one shot.

My tip: get in close, closer, closest! That's the only thing I can tell you. It's super wide, maybe 120 degrees. Another nice example of where it can be stunning and give a super weird perspective:

Marco