Pictorico media setting on canon printers

[nmp]

I decided to redo the HSB print with the "matte" setting. EDN is now giving me H=40 as optimum, so it's all over the place. I've seen H=330, H=270, H=220, etc. I'll have to do more samples to make sure this is right, but here's the scan:

View attachment 342757

OK....so it does look like the densest color is indeed black, as the cleanest blocks are the one in the top row - which are all RGB = (0,0,0). At least to the accuracy of 10% steps.

I also ran the Color Blocker 3.0 on Mhrar's site with your scan without any problem (so earlier failure on my part must be something to do with the file I was using to simulate.) It gave me Max Blocking Color HSB of (0,100,0) which is RGB = (0,0,0). And Optimum Blocking Color HSB of (340,100,0). I downloaded the two LUTs. And they both are give a reddish step wedge starting from black - the utility of which I don't completely understand. To me, the all black strip in the above scan (H=360, all the way to the right) looks the best.

:Niranjan.

 

[jarane]

Hi, zuluz
did you solve your Pro-100 issue?

I am starting in this journey and have the same printer and would like to print my negatives for palladium or carbon printmaking.

Thanks in advance,
E.C.

 

[MMH]

I was hoping to get some input on this as well.

I am printing cyanotype on Hahnemule platinum rag paper using a Quans 395nm 50W LED light approx 12 inches above the contact print.

I print on my Canon Pro-100 using the Apple Preview Program, Photo Glossy II, high quality, printer manages colors. (I found I was getting some weird color issues when printing from Lightroom or printing from Photoshop.)

I ran EDN color blocker and got an Opt LUT of HSB 340 (H),100(S),0(B) and Max LUT of 360,100,0.

I have never really figured out getting the EDN curve working well. But in the past I got some decent results with eyeballing a correction in monitor, inverting, applying Opt LUT color only, adding 20-30 intensity in the print setting.

After redoing some D-Max tests I have arrived at 6'30 exposure time under the Quans light.
I applied OptLUT to the inverted 256 wedge, and got the print below:

But the curve it generates after scanning the positive print of the 256 wedge looks really weird:

Patrick, I am having trouble following your suggestion:

"Print out a target that is 0-255. There are some on the internet. Then use it to establish a few parameters. Find your exposure (if you want max blue) by printing for the time that there is no difference between the edge of the Pictorico and the paper blue. Once you have established that printing time, you can look at all of the squares and figure out your printing range. Find where the shadow areas start to separate, and where the highlights do as well, and those are your end points. Hopefully you will still have some white otherwise your ink isn't dense enough. Once you have established your end points, put them in your curve or levels in Photoshop. You'll want to use output levels. Easier with a levels layer. Once you have your parameters set print a new target with the new parameters to make a curve. I've found the simplest way is to just use gamma, 1.8 to 2.2 works well usually for my Canon pigment printer. The higher the setting the brighter the print. I stopped using curves a while back. There is very little difference in the end print.That is all you have to do. Easy peasy. No complicated math or LUTs or anything else. Maybe I should start a website....."

 

[MMH]

I made a negative on top using the EDN curve applied to the positive image (generated by a scan of my 256 wedge that had the Opt LUT color blocker applied to it) and adding the OptLUT color blocker to the inverted image.

The negative on bottom is just the EDN curve.

I end up with a flat print (EDN + OPT LUT) with no midtowns or a contrasty print (bottom, EDN curve only). Any thoughts?

 

[koraks]

I see no paper white in your print. When trying to linearize digital negatives, first make sure the process works consistently. How are your results with a Stouffer step tablet?

 

[MMH]

I have not used a Stouffer step tablet. I just have the 101 and 256 files from easy digital negatives...

 

[koraks]

I understand; well, I'd recommend getting a step tablet, like the Stouffer T2115. It's the best investment one can make within the entire alt. process domain, IMO.
Lacking one, I'd start by masking around your digital/inkjet negative with something really opaque to UV (tinfoil works great) to verify the borders clear properly. I think you've got a truckload of staining or fogging going on, and that makes it impossible to linearize your negatives.