... Or you could play with this and see the differences.
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/dof-calculator.htm
I'm a bit dyslexic so it looked correct to me!I clicked on that site. Pretty neat. But they've made a couple errors. They're calling 4x5 and 8x10 the wrong way. I've looked everywhere and film isn't made in 10x8, as it doesn't fit in an 8x10 holder. And the next larger size is 11x14, and that's too big.
calling 4x5 and 8x10 the wrong way.
I don't understand the question either.Why would there be a difference in f/stop between formats?Hi all
I was probably going to ge the 500CM being more compact but the Mamiya RB67 (non pro) was just so cheap it was at least worth a play around and maybe later off load it if I not like it. $150US with a back, WLF and a 90mm F3.8 (C or not not sure).
What is the equiv. f stop between 135 format and this 6x7? For my own curiosity I will shoot the same roll off my Nikon and this thing and compare them. Do I just add an extra stop? Ie F8 on the Nikon is F11 on the Mamiya?
Cheers.
I don't understand the question either.Why would there be a difference in f/stop between formats?
Yeah I was talking about depth of field. What is like a F8 on Nikon on the Mamiya?
He's questioning about DOF...as he stated. F5.6 on a Nikon 35mm (for instance) will have much greater DOF than F5.6
on a Mamiya 6x7...In order to achieve the same DOF of the Nikon with the 6x7, you'd have to stop down considerably
and some lenses are lens sharp at each end of their apertures. It's been years since I used an RB...doesn't it have
a DOF preview?
I clicked on that site. Pretty neat. But they've made a couple errors. They're calling 4x5 and 8x10 the wrong way. I've looked everywhere and film isn't made in 10x8, as it doesn't fit in an 8x10 holder. And the next larger size is 11x14, and that's too big.
Use the DOF preview to get your desired DOF and take the picture...or you can pull out a slide ruler and stare at DOF
calculation charts all day.
I suggest a bit of flexibility will allay your issue. When I want a Portrait orientation shot, I grab my 5x4 holder and insert 5x4 film. When I want Landscape orientation, I grab my 4x5 holder and insert 4x5 film. Fortunately both film holders can fit my view camera without me turning the camera on its side, as the designers of the camera had the foresight to permit the groundglass back to fit in the rear standard in either direction. Good thing they did, as the ballhead tends to slip if I try to lay my 14lb. Horseman monorail on its side because of the added weight of the lens, and the bubble levels become useless in that orientation.
I find that the selection of emulsion is today a larger issue than sourcing 4x5 film in the USA and getting 5x4 film from a store in the UK, because I am forced to use colour film rather than my preferred color film. I will admit that I seem to mix up my 5x4 holders with my 4x5 holders quite often, but a dab of paint on the corner of one keeps them sorted out, although this fails to work in the dark, which accounts for the mix up and the frustration of trying to put 5x4 film in the 4x5 holders and vice versa. But I adapt...bringing us back to simply having a bit of flexibility in our choices.
Do people still use those? When I was in High School my Trig teacher showed us how to use a slide rule because we were curious. Calculators had replaced them by that time. It was 1978.
'Good chuckle, 19.Well I got it right. Lysdexia doesn't run in our family.
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