Photoflow in C-41 stabilizer?

[Tony-S]

It's been a while since I've done color negative film. I have a Unicolor powder kit with Blix and I cannot recall if the consensus is to add a little Photo-Flow 200 to the stabilizer.

 

[jamesaz]

As best I remember, C-42 stabilizer is photo flo and formaldehyde. Regardless, I add some to the unicolor stabilizer to help eliminate drying spots. I have not noticed any harm. Good luck.

 

[jamesaz]

C-41. iPad typing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

PE always said no PhotoFlo for C-41 film, use stabilizer which is different.

 

[iandvaag]

See the definitive thread by PE. I don't know if the Arista stab is pure hexamine, or if it already contains a something like Photoflo (since it is a powder, it won't contain actual Photoflo or Triton X-100). If it does contain a surfactant, the MSDS doesn't mention it.

It won't hurt to add Photoflo to the stab. Mix as directed, 1 part Photoflo to 200 parts stab. Do not rinse after stabilization.

 

[halfaman]

Excessive surfactant can leave stains in film, it happened to me once when I used by mistake 10 times the recommended dosification processing B&W. Don't add anything.

 

[ozphoto]

Never used Photoflo in the lab when processing film: Dev, Blix, Stabiliser, Dry.

The only time we ever got drying marks was when the stabiliser was low or exhausted. Mixing a new batch solved that problem instantly and any marks were easily removed with film cleaner before printing.

 

[MNM]

Just checked the label on the stabilizer from an Arista liquid C-41 kit. Says it contains hexamine and Photoflo.

 

[mklw1954]

For many years now, I have used 1/2 teaspoon Photoflo concentrate in 1 liter of Unicolor stabilizer, repeating after every 8 rolls of film processed. This took care of water drying film on my negatives.

 

[Helios 1984]

PE always said no PhotoFlo for C-41 film, use stabilizer which is different.

If Ron were here, he'd tell you that you don't add Photoflow to Kodak Final Rinse because it already has a certain amount of surfactant in the formulation.
However, Unicolor's stabilizer is just plain hexamine powder which when it decomposes in water forms Formaldehyde. This solid form of CH2O can leave spots of the film when it dries, so not a good route to go. He would advise to purchase a bottle of Kodak Final Rinse or to make your own stabilizer by preparing 1L of PhotoFlow as directed on the bottle and to add 3 - 10 ml of 37% Formalin solution.

 

[Sirius Glass]

If Ron were here, he'd tell you that you don't add Photoflow to Kodak Final Rinse because it already has a certain amount of surfactant in the formulation.
However, Unicolor's stabilizer is just plain hexamine powder which when it decomposes in water forms Formaldehyde. This solid form of CH2O can leave spots of the film when it dries, so not a good route to go. He would advise to purchase a bottle of Kodak Final Rinse or to make your own stabilizer by preparing 1L of PhotoFlow as directed on the bottle and to add 3 - 10 ml of 37% Formalin solution.

+1

 

[Kilgallb]

If Ron were here, he'd tell you that you don't add Photoflow to Kodak Final Rinse because it already has a certain amount of surfactant in the formulation.
However, Unicolor's stabilizer is just plain hexamine powder which when it decomposes in water forms Formaldehyde. This solid form of CH2O can leave spots of the film when it dries, so not a good route to go. He would advise to purchase a bottle of Kodak Final Rinse or to make your own stabilizer by preparing 1L of PhotoFlow as directed on the bottle and to add 3 - 10 ml of 37% Formalin solution.

Yes, probably ok if you can get the formalin. (Hard to get in Canada).

I use the unicolor kit and put the stabilizer powder in 1 litre of water. Then I add 5 ml of photoflo 200. This works well on 4x5 Ektar sheet film but not so well on 35mm. I send out my 35mm to London Drugs. They use Kodak Chemicals so grain is better and no spots.

 

[foc]

Has anyone tried these?