Photo paper as cyanotype substrate

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Whiteymorange

Whiteymorange

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Boy, life gets busy and you lose track of the threads you start... Sorry to have stepped away for so long, and thanks to all of you who have responded. Craig Koshyk’s book is really interesting.

I wondered what would happen if I just went ahead and coated fogged paper without fixing it out first, saving that step for later. I coated an 11x14 sheet of Spirotone gloss #3 fiber paper (I don’t really know who made it, Spirotone was, I believe, a reseller of materials manufactured for them by others). It coated well and dried without botches. I exposed four 4x5 negatives, different densities, for about 15% longer than normal. After washing, I fixed the sheet in a non-hardening rapid fixer from Photo Warehouse. There was some bleaching of the images, but less than I had feared.

On the issue of silkscreening the coating... I realize that material as thin as Cyanotype chems woud drip right through normal screen, but there are fabrics that are almost waterproof for use in certain types of technical printing, allowing the material to pass through only under the pressure of the squeegee. Still, it is unlikely to be worth the effort. I’m sticking to the glass rods and a soft Taklon brush for the projects I have underway. Thanks for the input.
 

nmp

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Ah :redface: sorry, missed the context. I've been out of town and lost the train of this thread even though I'd been following it. You're right of course!

That's quite alright. I am known to lose the train in mid-sentence...:smile: Besides I think I was confused about the issue myself.
 

nmp

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Boy, life gets busy and you lose track of the threads you start... Sorry to have stepped away for so long, and thanks to all of you who have responded. Craig Koshyk’s book is really interesting.

I wondered what would happen if I just went ahead and coated fogged paper without fixing it out first, saving that step for later. I coated an 11x14 sheet of Spirotone gloss #3 fiber paper (I don’t really know who made it, Spirotone was, I believe, a reseller of materials manufactured for them by others). It coated well and dried without botches. I exposed four 4x5 negatives, different densities, for about 15% longer than normal. After washing, I fixed the sheet in a non-hardening rapid fixer from Photo Warehouse. There was some bleaching of the images, but less than I had feared.

On the issue of silkscreening the coating... I realize that material as thin as Cyanotype chems woud drip right through normal screen, but there are fabrics that are almost waterproof for use in certain types of technical printing, allowing the material to pass through only under the pressure of the squeegee. Still, it is unlikely to be worth the effort. I’m sticking to the glass rods and a soft Taklon brush for the projects I have underway. Thanks for the input.

If you want to play with silk screen, one way you can thicken up the sensitizer is by adding some fumed silica (have to mix it in vigorously to develop the viscosity.)

:Niranjan.
 
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