Pentax lenses

[James-EG]

Just a couple of questions for the MX, how do I use the little lever in front of the shutter button? and what does it do?
Also, does the MX have a metering system like the K1000 that tells me if I have the right setting for the light levels?

Thanks, James

 

[Les Sarile]

Lever in front of the shutter button must be the shutter lock.
Good copy of the manual -> Pentax MX

 

[PentaxBronica]

The hotshoe may be an easy fix, two of mine had the same problem.

You'll need a set of jeweller's screwdrivers. First use the smallest flathead driver to gently lift the sprung inlay up at the front and slide it out backwards. This will reveal four crosshead screws. Undo these and the hotshoe will lift off (the MX doesn't have any internal nuts to drop into the camera AFAIK - the screws go into tapped holes in the top plate).

Underneath you'll find a brass tongue which is supposed to touch the contacts extending down from the hotshoe. Bend it up slightly and check the contacts now touch. Reassemble (making sure that the sprung inlay goes back properly - it needs to be held firmly against the hotshoe as you slide it back in to make sure that it hooks over at the back), fit a flash and try it.

The Cosina lenses may or may not be good, only advice I can give is to try them. Some 3rd party primes were pretty decent lenses.

Not sure which lever you mean - if it's the one on the front of the camera then it's the self timer and depth of field preview. Push it toward the lens mount for DOF preview, for self timer pull it away from the mount. To trigger the timer press the little circular button at the 12 o'clock position, providing the camera is wound it will fire when the timer runs out.

There is also a locking collar around the shutter button to stop you from accidentally firing it, although I tend not to leave mine wound on as it's hard on the shutter springs if you leave it that way for weeks or months at a time.

Metering - you have LEDs on the right hand side of the viewfinder, to turn it on half press the shutter button. If you pop the winder lever out (rather than having it stowed against the body) then half press the shutter it will click at the halfway point and keep the meter turned on. Push the winder lever back in to switch it off. A green LED means correct exposure, yellow means over or under by a stop, red means over or under by more than a stop.

The meter uses two button cells in a compartment in the baseplate, just like the K1000. The other similar fitting is for a motor wind. Use a 2p coin to unscrew them, not a screwdriver (wish the last owner of my K2 knew that, I wouldn't have had to replace the battery cover then!)

 

[James-EG]

Thanks for the replies, a lot of information, regarding the hotshoe I will try that when I can get the screwdrivers but the contact that goes on the flash looks pretty badly damaged so I may have to find a spare one. With the shutter lock, if I turn it either way it doesn't stop the shutter from being pressed, am I doing something wrong?
Yet another question, does anyone know of a supplier of spare parts for the Pentax MX? I really want to replace the base plate, the hotshoe, the cap on top of the winder and maybe even the top part of the camera with the dials, winder etc., also the battery cover. All these parts are quite badly damaged and I would love it if the camera could look like new again. Furthermore, is there any way of reparing the grip on the film door? It has started to peel off on one corner, and is there any way of repainting the camera so that all the bits that are supposed to be black are black and not copper? The paint has rubbed off.

Sorry for even more questions but it is the only way for me to learn...

Thanks, James

 

[Les Sarile]

Grip on the film door . . . the leather cover? If so then look into Camera Leather and others.

 

[James-EG]

Grip on the film door . . . the leather cover? If so then look into Camera Leather and others.

Yes That's what I mean, thanks very much

 

[PentaxBronica]

Your best bet for spares is probably Asahi Photo, they can also do a complete overhaul if you want. Other than that it's a case of haunting ebay for spares or repairs examples, problem there is that MXs tend to be fairly easy to repair so most people bid accordingly.

The yellow metal you can see is brass rather than copper, the panels on these cameras are brass with either chrome plating or black paint. You can repaint them but the panels need to be prepared carefully - see if you can find someone able to do very fine bead blasting to take them back to bare metal, then primer, top coat, and a couple of coats of lacquer. Halfords car paints are excellent quality and produce a lovely fine spray. You will have to go back after with a fine brush and acrylic white paint to re-do the lettering, then another coat of lacquer over the top to seal that in. Obviously the top and baseplate need to come off in order to do this, and the top plate will need to be stripped of its various fittings. If there are any major dents I'd leave it as-is - black cameras with brassing have a wonderfully worldly look IMO, mine looks great with a winder and small prime.

 

[Photo-gear]

And get the genuine ones only. I once bought a Chinese clone of the genuine Pentax adapters and it refused to release no matter how hard I tried. I ended up carefully cutting it with diagonal cutters to remove it.

I think I got caught by a Chinese clone, although I thought the mere fact that "Pentax/M42" written on it was a good sign. And i had a real hard time to take it off. So how do you get the confirmation it is a genuine one?

 

[lxdude]

I think I got caught by a Chinese clone, although I thought the mere fact that "Pentax/M42" written on it was a good sign. And i had a real hard time to take it off. So how do you get the confirmation it is a genuine one?

The best way is to buy it from a reputable place like B+H. They have it for $24.95. I can't find it on the Pentax USA website now, but it used to be on there for about $30. That website as usual needs some work

The actual Pentax product will also have an instruction sheet, and it is not hard to take off.

 

[PentaxBronica]

Mine (which I believe to be genuine due to the quality of the machining, it came to me holding a Super Takumar 35mm f3.5 to a KM) has "Asahi Pentax" and "Japan" engraved and painted black on the front face, no other markings (aside from the engraved orange dot on the side indicating where to align it with the body). The back is painted matte black, presumably to reduce the risk of internal reflections. The spring is held on by a lone flathead screw with a little evidence of threadlock being used.

The really stupid ones are the Chinese knock-offs with a flange to give the lens locking pin something to fit into. Thanks to this they're unable to get infinity focus as the lens is held a millimetre or so too far away from the film plane. Would love to know what nitwit came up with that one!

 

[Photo-gear]

Thanks lxdude & PentaxBronica for your comments. I might go check out on B&H soon.

On my adapter it is said "M42-Pentax Japan"... It might be the right one but after using it on and off, the spring got twisted out quite a bit, so I had to straighten it out... Since then I hadn't tried out yet.

Also, I must admit that my very first adapter was a genuine Chinese one. The one "with the flange to give the lens locking pin something to fit into". What a joke! I made that mistake, no sweat. I dare not sell it back to anyone coz there is a limit to rip-off a buyer.

 

[PentaxBronica]

I think whoever came up with the useless M42-K adapter may have been looking at the Canon ones for too long. Those can get away with the flange as the register distance for a Canon DSLR is longer.

Back to topic, just fished my slightly scruffy MX out for some exercise. Loaded with HP5 and ready to go when I decide what to point it at.

 

[Felinik]

Also, I must admit that my very first adapter was a genuine Chinese one. The one "with the flange to give the lens locking pin something to fit into". What a joke! I made that mistake, no sweat. I dare not sell it back to anyone coz there is a limit to rip-off a buyer.

+1 on that!

 

[James-EG]

Thanks for the replies, I have looked at Asahi Photo before, but the only spares they have at the moment is a focusing screen.

I just found a website selling Pentax equipment, is £30 or £49 a good price for a SMC Pentax 28mm f/2.8 m series? And is £42 a good price for the 135mm f/3.5?

Thanks, James

 

[Excalibur2]

Thanks for the replies, I have looked at Asahi Photo before, but the only spares they have at the moment is a focusing screen.

I just found a website selling Pentax equipment, is £30 or £49 a good price for a SMC Pentax 28mm f/2.8 m series? And is £42 a good price for the 135mm f/3.5?

Thanks, James

The Rikenon 28mm f2.8 is worth considering as it gives good results.

 

[James-EG]

The Rikenon 28mm f2.8 is worth considering as it gives good results.

Thanks, I'll have a look

 

[PentaxBronica]

Depends on the version...

There are two Pentax-M 28mm f2.8s, the earlier one has a chrome ring on the front (like the other M lenses) and isn't considered particularly good. The later model doesn't have a chrome ring and looks suspiciously similar to the Pentax-A version aside from the aperture ring not including the "A" setting.

Personally I'd still hold out for a Pentax-M 28mm f3.5, you won't notice the half stop difference and the image quality is much higher. I managed to find a nice one for £35 or so a while back, they are out there so keep looking. The 28mm primes are holding their value as they make superb standard lenses on the Pentax DSLRs, and with Pentax new prices having been hiked recently people are looking for used kit.

Assuming that's the Pentax-M 135mm f3.5 I'd keep looking, you should be able to find one for less with a bit of hunting. Can't remember if I suggested earlier but try a daily ebay search for "Pentax" showing newly-listed items first and only showing Buy It Now listings, that's about the only way to find real bargains now.

Pentax made loads of 28mm and 135mm primes as they were the standard kit (along with the 50mm sold with the cameras). There's also a 75-150mm f4 zoom which is pretty compact and has excellent image quality, London Camera Exchange have one listed for £19.99 at their Worcester branch at the moment. Might be worth a phone call?

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Depends on the version...

There are two Pentax-M 28mm f2.8s, the earlier one has a chrome ring on the front (like the other M lenses) and isn't considered particularly good. The later model doesn't have a chrome ring and looks suspiciously similar to the Pentax-A version aside from the aperture ring not including the "A" setting.

Personally I'd still hold out for a Pentax-M 28mm f3.5, you won't notice the half stop difference and the image quality is much higher. I managed to find a nice one for £35 or so a while back, they are out there so keep looking. The 28mm primes are holding their value as they make superb standard lenses on the Pentax DSLRs, and with Pentax new prices having been hiked recently people are looking for used kit.

Assuming that's the Pentax-M 135mm f3.5 I'd keep looking, you should be able to find one for less with a bit of hunting. Can't remember if I suggested earlier but try a daily ebay search for "Pentax" showing newly-listed items first and only showing Buy It Now listings, that's about the only way to find real bargains now.

Pentax made loads of 28mm and 135mm primes as they were the standard kit (along with the 50mm sold with the cameras). There's also a 75-150mm f4 zoom which is pretty compact and has excellent image quality, London Camera Exchange have one listed for £19.99 at their Worcester branch at the moment. Might be worth a phone call?

Agree about the 28mm f/3.5 - it is a truly superb lens, and I much prefer it over the 2.8.

 

[James-EG]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely look for the 28mm 3.6 and I will also have a look at that zoom. I'll also keep looking for a 135mm on eBay, cheking every day of course

I have to opportunity of buying the 135mm f/3.5 SMC M for £21 on eBay, it is in very good condition, is that a better price? and should I only buy the zoom if I find that I want a smaller/larger focal length after using the 135 for a bit?

Thanks, James

 

[darinwc]

I cant find it now but I once found a good comparison tests of k and screw mount 50mm lenses. Of the K-mount lenses, the 50mm f1.7 was a hair better than the f2 and f1.4. I think the 55mm f1.8 was best in the screw mount group.
-Did you buy the MX? -if not, can you PM me where you found it? I may like to buy it.

 

[James-EG]

I cant find it now but I once found a good comparison tests of k and screw mount 50mm lenses. Of the K-mount lenses, the 50mm f1.7 was a hair better than the f2 and f1.4. I think the 55mm f1.8 was best in the screw mount group.
-Did you buy the MX? -if not, can you PM me where you found it? I may like to buy it.

Thanks, I'll see if I can find it, and I did buy the MX in the end.

 

[PentaxBronica]

Yep, that's a lot more sensibly-priced, I'd pounce on that (assuming it's in good condition with no fungus).

I've seen a suggestion that the M 50/1.7 was a development of the 55/1.8. I know it replaced it as the cheapest 50mm when the M series were released (the 50/2 came a bit later).

 

[James-EG]

Ok, I'll buy it, it is in very good condition