Pentax K1000 wires gauge

[brupsilva]

Hi everyone.

I want to rewire my Pentax K1000. It has a lightmeter problem in the speed resistor. I will change the resistor but I want to rewire entirely because the wires is in poor condition. But I didnt found anywhere what wire to use. What gauge? Could anybody help me?

Moderator's edit: switch guage (thickness) for gouge (deep scratch) - hope that helps!

 

[koraks]

Wire gauge is totally non-critical since it's an extremely low-current application. Any wire will do.

 

[Chan Tran]

Any size wire that you can attach.

 

[Helios 1984]

If you have a magnifier or a macro lens, the wire gauge should be written on the wires. I would assume AWG 20 28 is what was originally used.

 

[Chan Tran]

If you have a magnifier or a macro lens, the wire gauge should be written on the wires. I would assume AWG 20 is what was originally used.

I think 20AWG is too big.

 

[4season]

I purchased a set of 30 gauge wires ("heat resistant, super-flexible") in a variety of colors via eBay, and it's been an ideal size for most camera repair work. If you plan on repairing other cameras, buy as many different colors of wire as possible. I think I paid around 10 USD for the set.

Whether due to oxidation, contamination from battery electrolyte, or a reaction to the insulation material, I often find that old wiring has a dull or dark appearance and is almost impossible to solder. But new wires + shiny solder connections + flux removal really makes the job look professional.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

30AWG will work fine, though 28 is easier to work with. 26 may be a bit too large.

If you have a good vernier caliper or micrometer you can determine the gauge of the original wire

https://www.calmont.com/wp-content/uploads/calmont-eng-wire-gauge.pdf

Measuring one of the the individual wires in the strand and counting the number of strands will give the most accurate results.

The Japanese used a PVC insulation that would decompose and the products of decomposition would react with copper, resulting in the wire turning to green goo.

 

[Helios 1984]

I think 20AWG is too big.

You are correct. I misread the numbers on the wires in my camera repair box.

(Comes from a Pentax SF1n)

 

[brupsilva]

Thank you all! I messured my K1000 cables externaly and it gives me 0,8mm. Looking at the AWG table, it seams to be AWG 20, or 0,5mm² seccion. I buy some over internet. Let's see...

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but others may find it useful... The wire connecting the battery chamber in my K1000 separated and it's is so teeny-tiny. I tried soldering it, but gave up in the end. Any tips would be appreciated!

 

[koraks]

I messured my K1000 cables externaly and it gives me 0,8mm.

That sounds rather thick. Are you measuring the copper conductor only, or the entire wire including insulation? You need to measure the stripped wire without insulation.

 

[koraks]

The wire connecting the battery chamber in my K1000 separated and it's is so teeny-tiny. I tried soldering it, but gave up in the end. Any tips would be appreciated!

Sorry to hear that Andy. In general, thin wires solder just fine, too, but there can be other problems. In particular, insufficient or ineffective solder flux, attempting to use lead-free solder (just don't bother with it; it sucks!), too much corrosion still left on the wire or contact that are to be soldered...

Some general advice:

• Ensure the wire and the contact are absolutely clean and free of any corrosion. On old equipment I often resort to scraping the muck off with a scalpel etc., but be careful not to cut the wire.
• Use a soldering iron with temperature control and set it to 280C to 320C. Start on the low end and if that doesn't work, inch up a little higher.
• Use a regular 67/33 Sn/Pb solder with a flux or rosin core. Thickness doesn't matter that much, something like 1mm tends to be convenient.
• Use some additional flux or rosin for good measure, although I find this is usually not necessary in a situation like this if you use a good quality flux-core solder to begin with.
• Wet the wire and the contact with solder separately so that they're nicely covered. If the tin doesn't flow easily after heating up the part and then touching the solder wire to it, go back and clean some more.
• Now touch the wire and the contact together, press the solder iron to it and after a few seconds, touch the contact with the tip of the wire. A bead of solder should now flow into the contact zone. Take away the solder and the soldering iron and leave the contact alone for a few seconds to set.

If you could post some pics of the parts in question, maybe I can give some more hints for your specific case.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sorry to hear that Andy. In general, thin wires solder just fine, too, but there can be other problems. In particular, insufficient or ineffective solder flux, attempting to use lead-free solder (just don't bother with it; it sucks!), too much corrosion still left on the wire or contact that are to be soldered...

Some general advice:

• Ensure the wire and the contact are absolutely clean and free of any corrosion. On old equipment I often resort to scraping the muck off with a scalpel etc., but be careful not to cut the wire.
• Use a soldering iron with temperature control and set it to 280C to 320C. Start on the low end and if that doesn't work, inch up a little higher.
• Use a regular 67/33 Sn/Pb solder with a flux or rosin core. Thickness doesn't matter that much, something like 1mm tends to be convenient.
• Use some additional flux or rosin for good measure, although I find this is usually not necessary in a situation like this if you use a good quality flux-core solder to begin with.
• Wet the wire and the contact with solder separately so that they're nicely covered. If the tin doesn't flow easily after heating up the part and then touching the solder wire to it, go back and clean some more.
• Now touch the wire and the contact together, press the solder iron to it and after a few seconds, touch the contact with the tip of the wire. A bead of solder should now flow into the contact zone. Take away the solder and the soldering iron and leave the contact alone for a few seconds to set.

If you could post some pics of the parts in question, maybe I can give some more hints for your specific case.

Thanks!

 

[Bill Burk]

I purchased a set of 30 gauge wires ("heat resistant, super-flexible") in a variety of colors via eBay, and it's been an ideal size for most camera repair work. If you plan on repairing other cameras, buy as many different colors of wire as possible. I think I paid around 10 USD for the set.

I bought two sets of 30 AWG for a total 10 different colors so I could rewire an ES-II if I want. They come in handy for everything.

The electronics store near me doesn’t stock anything this thin so I gave them a couple rolls. Figure the goodwill will come back to me someday.

 

[drboone]

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but others may find it useful... The wire connecting the battery chamber in my K1000 separated and it's is so teeny-tiny. I tried soldering it, but gave up in the end. Any tips would be appreciated!

Kynar wire of an appropriate gauge will be easier to solder without major insulation meltage. This stuff is used for wire wrap, making engineering changes to circuit boards, etc. Comes in a variety of colors, gauges, and probably stranded or solid.

 

[MattKing]

Title and first post edited for clarity.