Pentax K1000 problems

[Ces1um]

I was hoping someone could help me troubleshoot this problem. I have a pentax k1000 that is intermittently producing a darker band on the far right of the photo. Now before everyone jumps up and says it's a flash sync issue I'll tell you that there's no flash involved here. My flash was 30km away in a drawer at the time. I'm finding it's showing up on the right side of the photo, taking up about a 1/3 of the frame. Sometimes it produces a near black image, sometimes it is much less pronounced underexposure. It hasn't done this before and it's not every time either. That being said it's probably ruined 1/3 of my roll of 36 frames. It seemed to correct itself by frame 20 and didn't show up again. Any ideas?

 

[Chan Tran]

Either the first or second curtain of the shutter is not travelling evenly or too fast or too slow.

 

[Ces1um]

Thanks for the quick reply! I had a CLA done less than a year ago but the camera has probably had about 25 rolls through it since then. Wondering if this could be a sign of a major problem with the shutter or would another CLA be in order?

 

[Pioneer]

I would have to guess that you are seeing shutter capping where one of the curtains is not properly closing.

This is usually the result of dried up lubricant in the shutter bearings and would indicate the need for a good cleaning and then lubrication. It may also indicate weak springs in the shutter.

Since you say the camera was already cleaned and lubricated, it may be worthwhile to get in touch with the company/person who did your CLA and see what they think. Since it has been some time since the camera was serviced you will most likely have to pay for the repair.

 

[naeroscatu]

If you had a CLA done less than a year ago you should send it back to the technician to have it fixed. It may be something he overlooked the first time. A CLA on such a camera should last for many years IMHO.

 

[Ces1um]

If you had a CLA done less than a year ago you should send it back to the technician to have it fixed. It may be something he overlooked the first time. A CLA on such a camera should last for many years IMHO.

I think I'll do exactly that. They've been excellent to work with in the past so hopefully they can get things working. If they can't I may sell off my lenses and use that cash towards my first large format camera.

 

[daliborwalk]

Hello, do you know about some fix for this issue please?
Pentax K1000 exposure metering issue - Metering needle does not move/react when an aperture ring is being rotated.

(when I move TAB ON DIAPHRAGM-METERING RING manualy then the needle also moves correctly, rotating time exposure knob works properly with the metering needle.)
#aperture #ring #metering #K1000 #issue #problem

 

[tezzasmall]

From what you are saying, I would suggest putting the lens ONTO the camera and then try turning the aperture and the needle should move when you open and close the aperture.

Just turning the 'DIAPHRAGM-METERING RING' WITHOUT a lens on, I would think that wouldn't make any difference.

Terry S

 

[daliborwalk]

Yes, it does make the difference when you move TAB ON DIAPHRAGM-METERING RING manualy (in the blue circle) - checked now once more - needle moves as it should, confirmed. There are no pins/sensors for the check if the lens is on the body - there is no reason why it should not works without the lens off the body.

 

[tezzasmall]

Yes, it does make the difference when you move TAB ON DIAPHRAGM-METERING RING manualy (in the blue circle) - checked now once more - needle moves as it should, confirmed. There are no pins/sensors for the check if the lens is on the body - there is no reason why it should not works without the lens off the body.

By using a lens on the camera and then adjusting the aperture ring, you are letting more or less light onto the meter. Having last used one decades ago now, I am not sure how it all works but without a lens on the camera you are letting in much more light than necessary and think, when would you take a picture with the lens not on the camera anyway? So there is no need for the meter to work WITHOUT a lens on, which you have found out, do I can only think that this is all part of how the camera was made.

The bit of text that I found on a search says what I mean = 'The light meter uses two CdS cells and is fully coupled to the aperture.' ie as said above, the meter won't work without a lens on the camera.

Also, from what I've read, the cameras are quite old now and a lot of people recommend getting an EXTERNAL / handheld meter, from which you transfer the readings across to the camera, especially with anything other than print film, which has a larger latitude in exposure terms when compared to slide film say.

I hope this helps,

Terry S

 

[bstark]

The K1000 has open-aperture metering, and the tab tells the meter how much to adjust for the aperture pre-set on the lens, so yes, moving the tab should change the reading.

Two things I would check:

1. Does the tab on the camera body always snap back into the default position after you move it and let go? IIRC the default is the "closed" position. If it stays wherever you put it or moves slowly/reluctantly, the camera needs repair.

2. Does it make a difference whether the lens is set to f/2 or to f/22 while you mount it? I have had combinations of PK lenses and cameras where you always had to mount the lens in one particular way or it wouldn't register.

 

[daliborwalk]

Tab on the camera smoothly goes back to the upper position. I try to attach lens many times, also I have tried to put it with f2 or f22 but still the same - no reaction of the metering needle.

But I have noticed that exposimeter itself has often issues also.

So I will probably use my mobilephone to meter the light as I use it for Mamiya RB67.

Thank you all for your posts!

Have a great weekend guys.