Pentax ES II - light meter and aperture priority

[John Wiegerink]

Oh, and make sure the Auto-Manual switch on the SMC lens is set to Auto and your set to go.

 

[Bill Burk]

What if I put a lump of tape or something in that inside of the bottom plate, just to compress the plastic piece?

Great!

I think a little bit of plastic eraser would do the trick. You could even cut a small piece of wood.

I use JB Weld epoxy in the yellow tube.

 

[Baxter03]

Got it to work with the eraser! Thank you all very much.

This might be a stretch to be able to explain/ask:

So when shooting with auto shutter, the SMC lens needs to be set to automatic? I’m confused because when I switch the lens to automatic, the aperture is not wide open. Rather, it’s wide open when I set it to manual.

I tried shooting a bit today using the stop-down side switch before seeing all of these messages. Did this because that is how the camera actually displays a meter reading and logically I figured that when it determines what the shutter speed should be (by analyzing the light let in) it would set that shutter speed… I realize that’s not correct now but I’m a bit lost here since auto (on the lens) shows the dimmed image reflective of the actual aperture set.

Is the metering only to help when shooting manual?

 

[Bill Burk]

So you have the old Super Takumar lens that has to use stopdown mode that was developed for “backwards compatibility” with your lens.

The lens Automatic/Manual slider is a legacy function that does the same thing for cameras that pre-date even the Spotmatic.

When you get your SMCT lens be careful to leave the switch on that lens in “Automatic” because if the camera is in Automatic and the lens is in Manual, it will give really bad meter readings.

The manual shutter speeds do not activate the meter but you can remember what the needle was pointing at and choose that manual speed. Yes it can act as a guide like that.

 

[Bill Burk]

But if you got the SMC lens, you don’t need to use the stopdown metering mode any more. That Super Multi Coated Takumar must not be set on the lens to Manual with the ES-II. A tiny pin locks it, but you could mess it up if you play with the lens while the rear lens cap is on. Or if you push that tiny pin with a fingernail testing to see what it does.

 

[Baxter03]

Should the pin on the lens move when switching from manual to auto? I don’t see any movement from the pin. The only movement I see is that auto closes the aperture and manual opens it wide up.

 

[John Wiegerink]

Should the pin on the lens move when switching from manual to auto? I don’t see any movement from the pin. The only movement I see is that auto closes the aperture and manual opens it wide up.

Ben,
With the SMC lens off the camera and set to f8 does the aperture close when you put the lenses switch on auto? This test will tell if your SMC lens is working correctly or not. It should not be closed or stopped down.
If you have the SMC lens on the camera and it's in the "Auto" position with the lens set to f8 and it's stopped or closed down then either your SMC lens is faulty or the "stopped down switch/lever" on your camera is in the wrong position. On camera the SMC in "Auto"should be wide open when set at f8.

 

[Baxter03]

Thanks John. When my SMC is in auto, either on or off the camera, it is not wide open. It is stopped down. Not sure how the lens could be broken in a way where it functions in reverse lol im nearing my capacity

 

[John Wiegerink]

Thanks John. When my SMC is in auto, either on or off the camera, it is not wide open. It is stopped down. Not sure how the lens could be broken in a way where it functions in reverse lol im nearing my capacity

Hmmm! Maybe this old brain is working correctly. I don't have a fully functional SMC lens to check out and it's been many years since I last used my long departed ESII. I'm sure Bill or Dan will straighten my warped brain out.

 

[Pioneer]

I am not sure what is going on inside your camera but I do know that when the switch on the side of the camera itself is pressed all the way down, my SMC Takumar 55/1.8 lens is wide open on the camera before I press the shutter. When I press the shutter, with the mode dial on Automatic, the lens stops down and the shutter fires. The lens aperture then re-opens for the next shot. The switch on the lens itself is always set to Auto.

When the switch on the lens is set to manual and the lens aperture dial is turned the aperture on the lens will open or close depending of course on the direction you turn the dial. You can see that in the viewfinder so you know immediately if your lens switch is on manual because your view through the viewfinder will brighten up or darken depending on whether you are manually opening or closing the aperture.

This happens on every SMC Takumar I own with the exception of a 55mm f2 on which the switch on the lens has been disabled sometime in the past and cannot be moved off Auto. It still works fine on the ESII.

 

[Bill Burk]

I think you mixed the function of the switch with the action of switching it. When you move the switch over the word “Auto” you’re setting it in “”Man”.

You reveal the word of the function you set.

The tiny pin should normally prevent you from switching the lens to “Man”.

There is a chamfer on the lens mount of the ES-II this pin falls into.

Older Pentaxes have smooth lens mount that push the pin in because “Auto”/“Man” on the lens is useful there.

 

[John Wiegerink]

I think you mixed the function of the switch with the action of switching it. When you move the switch over the word “Auto” you’re setting it in “”Man”.

You reveal the word of the function you set.

The tiny pin should normally prevent you from switching the lens to “Man”.

There is a chamfer on the lens mount of the ES-II this pin falls into.

Older Pentaxes have smooth lens mount that push the pin in because “Auto”/“Man” on the lens is useful there.

Bill,
I think you might be right on the mixing of the manual/auto switch. It's the only thing I can think of as to why Ben is getting the opposite of what we think he should be getting. Ben, if you can read the word "Auto" on your lens you are in "auto-stop-down mode". If you can read the word manual on the lens then you're in manual stop-down mode.

 

[67Datsun]

Hi -

Sorry to rekindle an old post but I'm have the a light meter issue with my Pentax ES II. It is in almost perfect condition except for a non-working meter so it is a shame it isn't fully functional.

Here's what's going on

• Battery check does not work
• Stop down level is slightly cracked but pressing it together doesn't change anything
• I'm getting 5v to the stop down switch, however, when I press the shutter it goes to 0 v.
• Needle doesn't move

Any suggestions? @Bill Burk

Thanks and happy holidays!

 

[Bill Burk]

Hi -

Sorry to rekindle an old post but I'm have the a light meter issue with my Pentax ES II. It is in almost perfect condition except for a non-working meter so it is a shame it isn't fully functional.

Here's what's going on

• Battery check does not work
• Stop down level is slightly cracked but pressing it together doesn't change anything
• I'm getting 5v to the stop down switch, however, when I press the shutter it goes to 0 v.
• Needle doesn't move

Any suggestions? @Bill Burk

Thanks and happy holidays!

You obviously have it open. What lens are you mounting? Is it SMCT? (which works with the aperture follower. ) or Super Takumar (requires stop down). Does shutter seem to work in automatic?

Does anything happen if you make contact in the switch under the shutter releas?

 

[67Datsun]

You obviously have it open. What lens are you mounting? Is it SMCT? (which works with the aperture follower. ) or Super Takumar (requires stop down). Does shutter seem to work in automatic?

Does anything happen if you make contact in the switch under the shutter releas?

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply. Camera has a SMCT 35mm. Shutter works but in automatic mode, it does not change the lens aperture. Shutter speed doesn't change in auto mode.

"Does anything happen if you make contact in the switch under the shutter releas?"

Not sure exactly where you are referring to.

 

[Bill Burk]

It sounds like you had it apart to measure the voltages. Under the baseplate is a switch that should connect when you press the shutter release halfway down. That’s the part that always splits and makes no connection.

With SMCT lens you should keep the depth of field preview switch down.

In auto the open aperture metering mechanism should follow the f/stop on the lens.

And if that switch under the baseplate is split, you can push the metal fingers together to see if you get the meter needle to move.

 

[67Datsun]

Hi Bill,

Yes, I do have the bottom off. Sorry, just didn't understand the directions.

Can confirm, with switch down, the aperture is changing with the camera in automatic.

Here's two pictures of the switch. I've resoldered the red and blue wires just incase the joint had gone bad. Meter still doesn't move in the viewfinder.

See anything out of the norm?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Bill Burk]

When you press the shutter down half-way the "knuckles" on the two fingers should touch the gold plated pad on the switch. When the shutter is open, a bar with fingers comes under from the other side and tries to hold the shutter-release "down" until the shutter closes and mirror returns. The two fingers on the switch should stay in contact with the gold pad if you let go mid exposure of a long exposure (you can get 8 seconds by just pressing and letting go).

That's how the switch should be adjusted.

Acetone will dissolve the red fingernail polish and then you can remove the adjuster and lock ring.

But I think I see the issue I always see. I think the black plastic housing of the switch body has split and needs to be glued together.

See my post #9 where I tied two red strings (those aren't wire) around the switch body and then added epoxy carefully to hold the body together.

 

[67Datsun]

Thanks Bill. I will try gluing. I also think there may be a short as one of the batteries LR44s is corroded already. Batteries have only been in the camera for two weeks.

On another note, I just picked up another ESII that has a fully functional light meter. The camera came with its original warranty card and manual that look like they were printed yesterday.

I now have three ES II. Two working; one needing help. I think I need help too.

 

[Bill Burk]

Uh oh you’re in trouble. Did you get the repair manuals from learncamerarepair?

They come in handy.

 

[Jan-Peter]

Thanks Baxter, Bill and Dan, - and the others,

for this very intresting discussion of the Pentax ES-II. Some years ago I got hold of one from South-Africa, kind of a brand new model with the 1,4/50mm Super-Takumar that has the yellowsih tint of Thorium surface.
Anyway I had some film exposed and developed fine; however after 8-10 film I had a transport of film issue that was said to be repaired with another shutter unit. - Then the ligh-metering was kind of always different - and the transport of film problem never seemed to be resolved properly.
Anyway I was never really happy with this camera though it cost me a fortune. - Returning to a simple Fujica ST605 I was happily taking any kind of photos in the Italian Alps with pleasure.
Now, the more I am thankful for this discussion as I always wanted to see my ES-II really working. - I have the early Spotmatic, 1964-68 model which works absolutely properly, indeed. - I just recently exposed a film on a Soviet 58mm lens Cosmogon - on a Agfa Isopan, Oct-1956 - at all negatives and prints came out exhilarating, indeed!

Anyway - I will sit down with my ES-II another day and try again.
Thanks to all of you!

Jan-Peter
Lake of Constance and Val Chiavenna/Lago di Como

 

[Chaz222]

Appreciate this thread. I too have an ES-II which has just been overhauled recently because the meter was not working. Looking forward to trying it and seeing how the automatic shutter speed function works with the meter. Shooting with the SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (8 element lens). Can't wait to run some film through it.

 

[Bill Burk]

Have fun! The infuriating part for me is when subject is backlit or bright light is in the frame but not part of the subject. It will underexpose. This is true of any center-weighted averaging meter, but in the ES-II you have to “check without that light” and either use the compensation knob or manual shutter, or compose without that light. While struggling to get exposure right you might forget to focus or hold still.

 

[Chaz222]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll keep that in mind.

 

[aoresteen]

I have a complete set of Pentax ES-2 bodies:

1. ASAHI CHROME

2. ASAHI BLACK

3. HONEYWELL CHROME

4. HONEYWELL BLACK

Three of the 4 bodies needed servicing. I sent them to Eric Henderson who had them ticking perfectly. Eric has also repaired a bunch of Spotmatics and Pentax 6x7 for me.

Eric Hendrickson
PO Box 1145
Loudon, TN 37774

Highly recommended.