Pentax Auto 110 and 110 film

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freecom2

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Hi all,
I've recently got my hands on a Pentax Auto 110 and an 18mm f/2.8 and the standard lens as well. Seems to all be functional, even a cartridge of Kodacolor VR still inside!

As for the long discontinued film - is it even remotely feasible to cut B&W 35mm film down to 110 size, load it in the Kodacolor cartridge, and then modify a Paterson reel to fit the modified film size for home processing?

The instructions for respooling 110 seem to always point to this: http://www.subclub.org/darkroom/roll110.htm

although in these days of picture tutorials, I'm a bit scared off that! :whistling:

Anyone out there respooling 110?
 
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freecom2

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Even so, I'd prefer to process it myself as a low sales film format is going to be expensive both to buy and to process.
 

Jostie

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110 respooling

As a Pentax 110 owner i have thought about splitting a 35mm roll and re-spooling an empty 110 cartridge so that I could use B&W film instead of the available out of date colour film. The only problem that I couldn't resolve was that 110 film has a 'sprocket hole' at the beginning of every frame which a pin in the camera pops into so that the camera knows when it has reached the next frame. If it can't find this hole then it won't let you fire the shutter and you end up winding straight through the whole roll! (I know this from experience as the pin in my camera got stuck in the depressed position and I wasted a couple of rolls before I could work out what was wrong.)

If anybody could work out a way of overcoming this I might have another go at re-spooling.
 

paul ewins

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I use 16mm single perf film. You can use it either way up, but with drawbacks either way. It has around 3.5 times as many sprocket holes as 110 film so if it is sprocket side up (I think) then you have to shoot a few blank frames with the lens cap on as you advance. If you have it the other way up the shutter will be cocked after two strokes, but will uncock again if you wind on again, so it is possible to just advance all the way through the film without realising that you can shoot. This is easy to simulate in a camera with no cartridge installed.
 

removed account4

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hi

i bought a slitter a few months ago and respool
its a piece of cake ...

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

murray kelly here on apug did a visual tutorial
have fun !
john
 
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freecom2

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All looks very interesting! A bit daunting as well, I must say, but it's probably one of those things that once you've successfully respooled a few times, it's almost second nature. Shame there's no video tutorials, but at least the pictures are a good start.
 

nexus757

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I'm planning to try both 16mm MP film and slicing down 120 film for my Minolta 110 SLR. I know the Minolta doesn't require the specific 110 perf to cock the shutter. If the Pentax is the same, it seems like you could tape over, or otherwise disengage the pin designed to stop the film at each perforation. Then, if using regular 110 backing paper, it would be a matter of manually advancing the winder to each number as it appears in the window. Another thought I've had would be to order a custom cutting die to cut a perfectly perforated 12-exposure 120 roll out of 35mm or 120 film. It seems like this would be possible to do on an old fashioned letterpress printing press a few at a time, mounting the film to a guide (you can feel in complete darkness) and slowly advancing the flywheel by hand to advance the die to the cutting position. Very interested in any suggestions or thoughts anyone has on this issue.
 

Steve Roberts

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There's been quite a bit posted on APUG on this subject (including some of my own postings). Contrary to what Jostie says, in my experience you don't need to worry about the perfs for the Pentax 110, but the amount the film advances will be greater as the amount of film on the take-up spool increases, leading to bigger inter-frame gaps (which don't matter).

Steve
 

tjaded

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I sell 110 film at my shop--color neg. PM me if you want some.
Thanks,
Matt
 

bsdunek

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Try Goat Hill Film Supply: http://www.subclub.org/sponsors/goathil3.htm You can buy strips of 16mm film ready to use. Also, NOS is available at The Frugal Photographer: http://www.frugalphotographer.com/ I just ordered 10 cartridges of Agfa from them. They don't seem to have any B&W though. You would have to reload for that.
You can notch the cassett for use in the Pentax so it advances properly.

Also check out Blue Moon: http://www.bluemooncamera.com/inventory.php?menuID=4&catID=500&deptID=543
and resources for the 110 user: http://home.comcast.net/~youngds/110Cameras/Resources110/Resources110.htm

I still like my Minolta 110 Zoom and my Minox B, so I keep searching out this stuff.
 

Jostie

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I'm sorry to disagree, but unless the interior lever is able to engage with the perforation the advance isn't halted and the shutter isn't set. so you end up winding through a whole roll of film with out being able to fire the shutter. I can't believe that this characteristic is unique to my camera only. Thats why I think the perforations are necessary for film that you want to use in a Pentax 110
 

j-dogg

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Oh 110 film, how I miss you, we grew up together in my mother's Minolta 110 pocket camera. I will expose you once again someday.

Also there is plenty of expired 110 on that auction site, which is what it was designed for originally.....obscure hard to find stuff.

Crap....I want some now, found a cheap Minolta 110 SLR....where would you get this stuff developed?
 

bsdunek

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I'm sorry to disagree, but unless the interior lever is able to engage with the perforation the advance isn't halted and the shutter isn't set. so you end up winding through a whole roll of film with out being able to fire the shutter. I can't believe that this characteristic is unique to my camera only. Thats why I think the perforations are necessary for film that you want to use in a Pentax 110

Depends if you have a "Type A" or a "Type B" camera. See http://www.subclub.org/darkroom/roll110.htm

The Pentax and Minolta 110 cameras are Type A and don't need perforations. I think the Minox is also a Type A. You may have a Type B, which does need perforations.

Just FYI.
 

bsdunek

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Another point of interest - Adox may soon have B&W 110 available. http://www.adox.de/english/ADOX Films/page9/page9.html

I would welcome this. It sounds like they are committed, but can only do things so fast, depending on the finances available, and this certainly wouldn't be a high profit product.
 

Ralph Javins

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. . .

Crap....I want some now, found a cheap Minolta 110 SLR....where would you get this stuff developed?

Good morning;

Yes, the Minolta 110 SLR Zoom camera really is nice. I like mine.

For Black and White film, I have been doing my own. I have not yet found a Nikor 16mm reel yet, but now I have two plastic reels that adjust down to 16mm.

Color is a bit of a challenge. I cannot remember the name of the company in Colorado that does old film processing, C-14 and similar, but they also do still have 110 cartridge machines they are willing to run. The only disadvantage is that you are really paying for custom processing now, so there is a noticeable cost.
 

removed account4

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once in a while you can find an photoshop dumping their stock on ebay .
i bought a huge box of 110 film that way, ... and a few months ago a slitter through goathill ..
its for 35mm ... and cuts perfectly ...

if anyone is interested i wouldn't mind selling it .....i am such a clutz i have trouble doing that sort of thing ...
(i've used it 3x )

john
 

Lobalobo

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OK, so, yes, I know that this thread is 7 years old, but it strikes me that it may be relevant again because it looks like Lomography is discontinuing its 110 film. (Don't know this for sure, but it's out of stock everywhere.) My particular question is about a Pentax Auto 110 Super. My plan is to load split 120 film into old Kodak cartridges, so no perforations. I take it from this thread that the Pentax 110 is a "type A" camera and so ignores the perforations; good. But I wonder whether this means I'll be able to continue using the auto film-advance motor, which is fun, or will that just wind the film to the end. Seems if the perforations aren't used, then the motor advance should be fine, but I wonder if anyone knows for sure. Thanks.
 
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