Pencil lead on filter threads - not just plastic reels

[HiHoSilver]

Sirius repeatedly helps us less experienced guys - as do others, but one of his remedies is helping another case - cranky filter threads. On the last trip shooting St. John's bridge, I had some reflected highlights I wanted to view w/ a polarizer. I use encaps on a stack of filters. My polarizer, like the Hoya ND grad - has the knurled grip for the lens side a smaller diameter than the outside ring that rotates. So softjaws in a vise is not very effective. After fidgeting, I got the polarizer released from the stack. Using Sirius' method of running a soft pencil lead over the threads & the front & back bottoming surfaces, they seem a bit less cranky. I thought using moly (molybdenum disulphide) would be more effective on the threads, but would likely also smudge/stain the glass & not come off completely. Sirius originally recommended this for sticky plastic developing reels.

For Sirius & others - your kind help is very much appreciated.

 

[DWThomas]

In particular, anodized aluminum on anodized aluminum can get very difficult. Being cheap, I tend to buy filter adapters and the like made with said material. I generally take a scrape across the threads at three or four points around the circumference with the butt end of a birthday cake candle. (Well, it's cheaper than buying a pound of paraffin sealing wax to get a few milligrams of wax!)

 

[BrianShaw]

Pencil lead - clay and some graphite - and birthday candles is old skool. So is paraphin blocks and nose grease. A more modern approach to consider: Teflon dry lube. Goes on wet; dries dry and invisible... And slick.

 

[HiHoSilver]

'preciate the tips on the other methods, Gents.

 

[DWThomas]

Actually, some of the silicone auto waxes would probably work decently too. Or a wax that is fairly hard like the carnauba stuff -- Mother's Gold or whatever. Preferably not a cleaner/polish which contains fine abrasives. My primary decision factor is usually what I can lay my hands on without leaving the house!

 

[HiHoSilver]

Hmm. Good choices.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I agree with Brian. Teflon dry lube is what I use in cases like yours.

 

[bsdunek]

Actually, some of the silicone auto waxes would probably work decently too. Or a wax that is fairly hard like the carnauba stuff -- Mother's Gold or whatever. Preferably not a cleaner/polish which contains fine abrasives. My primary decision factor is usually what I can lay my hands on without leaving the house!

I would avoid anything with silicone in it. Silicone can damage lens coatings. I know you're only putting it on the threads, but, we know how things can spread. I use pencil lead and it works fine. Molybdenum disulphide can be obtained in powder form. I would avoid a grease, again, just because it can spread on optical surfaces.

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

Pencil lead - clay and some graphite - and birthday candles is old skool. So is paraphin blocks and nose grease. A more modern approach to consider: Teflon dry lube. Goes on wet; dries dry and invisible... And slick.

True dinks! What's good for the MTB's chain is excellent for sticky filter threads. Finish Line Dry Teflon lube is the bomb. Just one drop then screwed on is all that is required. I store a tiny, slender 5cc insulin syringe in my pack with this lube in it for ad-hoc application.

 

[paul ron]

superlube has a dry silicon spray. i shoot a tiny bit in a cap then apply it to the threads with a small brush. it drys clean n slick.

 

[BAC1967]

Anti-Seize is designed to prevent threads from seizing. A little bit goes a long way and like Bruce said, be careful using it around lens coatings. I haven't used this for lens filters but I have for other things. I put a very small amount on and then wipe away as much as I can. It will last a long time.

Dead Link Removed

 

[Hatchetman]

How about a little bit of powdered graphite from the hardware store?

 

[bdial]

How about a little bit of powdered graphite from the hardware store?

It would likely work, but I expect it would be really difficult to not get too much. Applying it with a (sacrificed) spotting brush might work.

FWIW, my dad used to recommend using a soft pencil on shutter blades to keep them running smoothly. I've never tried it though

 

[Sirius Glass]

I had a sticky Speed Graphic shutter, Burt Sanders [retired Graflex and Graphic repairman] who sold the camera to me from his collection told me to use powdered graphite for locks one each side of the shutter [lens removed], fire many times, blow off the graphite. I never had a problem with the lens again.

 

[williaty]

It's worth noting that graphite is corrosive to bare aluminium. For this reason, anti-seize with graphite content (which is quite common) is forbidden in the aerospace industry. I have no idea if the anodization on your filters and lens barrels is sufficient to protect the aluminum in the long run. A modern dry lubricant like LPS1 is a much safer bet, as are some of the modern dry lubricants for firearms.