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joefreeman

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I'm fairly aggrevated, I had this nice long and thorough post, then hit the back button on my mouse by mistake... loosing it all. I'll type it again, just not as elegant.
In my opinion, Kentona is better than Nuance on every level. Assuming you're looking for a replacement to grade 3 azo. Donald, just go buy a box of 25 sheets 810 from freestyle for $19. You won't regret it. No need to wait for anyone else's prints.
Assuming most like warmer colors to their prints, Kentona wins hands down. If you're not so hot for warmer colors, develop the paper longer, which I find really cools it down. Kentmere touts the paper as being very responsive to toning, and lith printing, hence the name; so it isn't a suprise to me that longer developing times really alter its color.
In terms of sharpness, the Kentona makes Nuance look like a joke. No exaggeration. Jim said he thought the paper had more local contrast due to blacker blacks. I'm not sure of that; I think it has more local contrast due to being so much sharper. Donald, I hear you, local contrast is what really makes prints sing.
As far as which paper has blacker blacks, I don't know, didn't look for that specifically. But, the Kentona has much richer low values. Which in looking at prints is really of more importance. That is another characteristic Kentmere glorifies the paper with, dealing with low values very handsomely. I'd suspect in terms of densitometry, the dmax of Kentona is right on par with nuance. Like nuance, kentona's dmax is very responsive to selenium.
In comparing kentona to grade 3 azo (both kentona and nuance put grade 2 azo in the trash bin) I wouldn't say it's better or worse, but different. Greg, I think you asked which azo kentona is closer to, definately 3. Keep in mind I've only made 25 prints on Kentona, but so far, having it around makes me not miss grade 3 azo.
It's not as sharp as azo, but just a hair below. The difference isn't enough to get hung up on however. A stand type negative could do the trick; whereas there's just no hope for the j&c when it comes to competing for sharpness.
In comparing color, for me the Kentona has a much more satisfying color. In fact, comparing azo3 to kentona, taking their differences of sharpness and color, I would trade grade 3 azo's sharpness for kentona's color. At one minute dev time the kentona has a golden brown, at two mins a more of a dark chocolate brown.
Though the Kentona is supposed to be a grade two, or two and a half paper, I find it has more contrast (local and overall) than both nuances. I think it may have just as much contrast as grade 3 azo, though I've not made prints to really evalute the two papers on that level. It's really close however.

I know this post is all over the place and full of typos, I'll blame it on a very bad head cold.
 

galyons

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Joined
May 27, 2003
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276
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San Francisc
galyons, Are you the guy that was not to be found when the Amildol purchase was to be consumated? The very same guy that would not answer pms or emails? Nice of you to show up now that all of the details have been handled.

Donald, what an amazingly uninformed, immature and totally non sequitur response. Sadly, the cyber playground bully behavior haunts the community.

Cheers,
Geary
 

c6h6o3

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Oct 16, 2002
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The local contrast is the really important thing for me too. I do think that paper is only part of the reason for local contrast. The film plays a big part. The light source plays a big part. A condenser enlarger will show enhanced local contrast if all other things are equal. A point light source still more than a opal lamp condenser. A big part is the how well the camera negative matches the paper. That is where testing of materials can make a difference.

For instance I can shoot the same film and the use the same paper and arrive at totally different prints from the same combination of materials. I am sure that you have found this to be true for yourself.

Regarding dmax...I think it is part of the equation...certainly not the only one or even perhaps the most important one. For instance by itself, I found Kentmere VC to be acceptable paper...when I judged it in comparison to other prints and on the densitometer I found that it sucked big time.

We also found that toning in selenium (I don't remember the dilution, sorry) deepened the blacks markedly, much more so than with Azo. I'll send you toned and untoned prints, Don, when I get a chance and an Azo Grade 3 print of the same negative to compare. I'll be interested to see what the dmax is.
 

c6h6o3

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I see that the Kentmere is available in one grade only. Which grade of Azo does it come closest to, and have you tried a water bath to soften it when needed?

Grade 3, and it responds nicely to water bath development.
 

c6h6o3

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Oct 16, 2002
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One thing Joe forgot to mention: it seems to yield much nicer prints in the bulk purchase Chinese amidol than it does the Artcraft stuff. Just an initial impression. I intend to test this to death.
 

galyons

Member
Joined
May 27, 2003
Messages
276
Location
San Francisc
One thing Joe forgot to mention: it seems to yield much nicer prints in the bulk purchase Chinese amidol than it does the Artcraft stuff. Just an initial impression. I intend to test this to death.

Since I'm sitting on a substantial stash of Greg's amidol, this apears to be good news. When you say that the Kentmore seems to yield much nicer prints, can you expand? I need to order some contact print paper. I have not been thrilled with the latest run of AZO, especially the G2, and the Lodima is still in the testing/development stage.
Cheers,
Geary
 

Scott Peters

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Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
359
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Scottsdale,
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ULarge Format
Well, I have some nuance to try so I will try and report findings. Guess I need to try Kentmere and Kentona as well, even though I am hopeful that Lodima will come through.

In regards to the AZO 2, I have found reasonable success in getting some prints close to Azo 3 and for some prints it's better due to better shadow detail, slightly lower contrast. I do need to start with a high contrast neg and then develop in amidol for close to 4 minutes. Perhaps some of you can 'rescue' your newer azo 2 batches with this method.

I find these posts helpful for finding new papers. My issue right now is that the AZO is MUCH slower than the nuance and I need a MUCH lower bulb wattage...haven't quite figured it out yet.
 

Donald Miller

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Joined
Dec 21, 2002
Messages
6,230
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Large Format
We also found that toning in selenium (I don't remember the dilution, sorry) deepened the blacks markedly, much more so than with Azo. I'll send you toned and untoned prints, Don, when I get a chance and an Azo Grade 3 print of the same negative to compare. I'll be interested to see what the dmax is.


Jim,

Thanks, I will be interested to find out what they show.

I think that perhaps it may be helpful, if others are inclined, I would be happy to test a variety of papers for contrast, dmin, and dmax. I would publish the figures here on Apug so that we would have objective facts to compare. I think that using a step tablet would be best for this kind of a test. If any of you have the means to do step tablet exposures and are interested in providing this information to our community at large, PM me and I will read the reflection density of the step tablets, plot the paper curves and publish them here on Apug. Unfortunately I have no good objective way of proving or disproving the relative sharpness of a paper at present. That would require the use of a resolution target that most probably do not have.
 
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