Paper developer like hc110

[lowellh]

You might like to try our Clayton P 90 Print Developer or Ultra Clod Tone Developers.

 

[Ryuji]

I on the look out for a new paper developer. I've used Dektol/D72 in the past, as well as Agfa Multicontrast... Both had a tendency to go a bit brown once the bottle was half full.

Do you mean Ilford Multicontrast developer? Although they (Kodak Dektol, Ilford Multicontrast, Agfa Neutol Plus, etc.) become yellow, orange and then brownish, they often show little change in the image quality as long as the full scaled image comes up within 2min or their normal developing time.

If you are set up to use Dektol, I'd rather collect a bunch of bottles and split up the stock solution. You'll save trouble and time going through another developer. Ilford Multigrade, Agfa Neutol Plus, etc. are also good developers but with greater convenience of more concentrated stock.

Some people remember that I had a print developer recommendation page on my web site. I've been trying to be a bit more aggressive in migrating my old Photo-Tech branch into the new wiki-based system. So the new link is:

Dead Link Removed

I can only comment on the keeping properties of the DS-14 and Tektol developers. On the extreme end, I've kept same working strength solution in my Nova slot processor for all fall-winter-spring seasons without a tight lid (Nova Monochrome doesn't come with a tight lid unlike color models.) I've noticed that the developer goes faster during summer, when my darkroom may hit 80's (or close to 30˚C) when the AC is off. But with full container, I can keep reusing the solution for many months with replenishment.

The way I do is to keep Tektol concentrate handy. Guestimate the fluid loss at the end of each session. Pour 10% of the concentrate, 90% of water to fill up the bottle. Cap. Some people use marbles instead of fresh developer to fill the void (or air to be precise) of the bottle. Of course, any of these would work with Dektol or Multigrade.

Tektol Standard gives warmer side of neutral black if you combine with a warmtone paper. If Dektol works for you, I expect Tektol Standard 1+9 should work right "out of the box." The reason why I asked Digitaltruth to release Tektol Neutral together is that some people dislike this "slightly warmer side of neutral." Indeed, these two developers can be blended at any arbitrary proportion to find the results you like the best.

 

[dancqu]

Also take a look at this:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

I like that. "... Almanac" 1914, page 854. Dan

 

[WillyWizard]

Mr. Gainer and yourself have made a good suggestion.
Marco won't be way out in left field giving HC-110 a try
on prints. After having gotten Ansco 120 results from
D-23 I wonder if there is any film developer which
will not also work well as a print developer.

My work with them shows that those for film are less
active and need some sodium carbonate to speed them
along. That carbonate is easy to come by.

If any care to try their film developer on paper I suggest
testing with 5x7 paper in that size tray. As little as 125ml
of solution is very easy to work with. Test by putting a
few small prints through developers of varying dilution
and activity. Go for the greatest dilution and least
added carbonate that will fully develop ONE print.
You'll then know the limits. Dan

Personally I've never used it with additives as I think that changes the properties of the film developer and you won't get as good results. Sure it might take a minute longer, but sometimes good things come to those who wait. I use either straight or 1:1 for D-76, and extend either dev. time or exposure time...depending on the look I want.

 

[dancqu]

Personally I've never used it with additives as
I think that changes the properties of the film
developer and you won't get as good results.

Sure it might take a minute longer, but sometimes
good things come to those who wait. I use either
straight or 1:1 for D-76, and extend either dev.
or exposure time..depending on the look I want.

D-76 is a MQ developer with a lot of sulfite.
My minimalist inclinations do not allow for that
much sulfite.

HC-110 was mentioned by the OP. After giving the
matter some study at a site posted this thread, I'll
repeat that Mr. Gainers suggestion is a good one.

Personally I'd be going for the minimums then add
to that if there were more than one print needing
the same developer the same session. Dan