Panatomic-X bulk 5" roll question (bulk in general I guess?)

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MTGseattle

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I picked up a random lot of old stuff this weekend.

Some Fuji HR1600 in 35mm
Some Panatomic_x 35mm by 27 foot roll
Old trix-pan 120
etc.

Also is a can of Panatomic-X in 5" by 100 feet. Expiration date is Dec 1968. The can is showing only light rust, but seems to be re-sealed with masking tape. The can seems reasonbly heavy, but I don't think white masking tape would have been the seal from Kodak so I'm guessing some of the film has been used.

I've read plenty regarding testing funky old films, we don't need to tread that path here.

I am curious how to get a few sheets of 4x5 out of something that has been rolled up for this many years?

Any follow on tips for a good cutter that I can fit into a Medium harrison tent. For testing, I could cut some with scissors or an x-acto and not worry about scratching and damage, but if the film is viable, I would want a much cleaner method moving forward.
 

nosmok

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I use a small plastic Fiskars swing-arm* paper cutter for trimming roll film after developing. It's cutting surface is 4" x 6" so cutting to 4x5 would be easy, and it will fit in a medium Harrison tent no problem. Don't have the model # though.

*looks like the ones your teacher used in elementary school, but smaller. Not the roller-blade kind, but that might work too.
 

nosmok

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As to the 'rolled up for years' question, it's the side rails of the 4x5 holder that hold the film down. Measure the distance between them as exactly as you can, and cut the film a hair narrower than that. If it's emulsion-in wound, it'll bend toward the back of the holder and the dark slide should clear it; if it's a thin base, it might rise up and out. You'll probably need to sacrifice a couple hand-cut sheets to get a scheme that works for you, but Pan-X is usually worth the trouble.
 
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MTGseattle

MTGseattle

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Thank you.
In the interim, I stumbled across Jim Galli's old thread, and a few more tips and tricks. I would definitely get my setup dialed in a lighted room before I mess around in the tent. I need to double check the label, but it does seem like almost anything of this vintage and size was intended for aerial use. Is that a fair assumption? (as-in it will be a bit thinner than typical sheet film stocks)

I found more than one recommendation for the Linhof plate/sheet holders regarding thin films.

Should I expect any outer wrapping or anything else to be inside the can?
 

nosmok

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...

Should I expect any outer wrapping or anything else to be inside the can?
I wouldn't assume there are, and then crack the can outside the Harrison tent, that's for sure.
 

Don_ih

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Should I expect any outer wrapping or anything else to be inside the can?

The original tape would have been cloth tape (like medical tape), almost certainly. Assume the film is not at all protected inside the can. Originally, it may have had a paper wrapper around the film, and the film may (or may not) be on a spool.

I can't see cutting this to fit a 4x5 holder working very well in a changing bag, no matter how big. Rolls like that are unwieldy.
 

mshchem

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How valuable is your time vs this stuff? Maybe for respooling wider roll films like 122 etc. Put it in a cool dark place 😎
 

Romanko

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I use a small plastic Fiskars swing-arm* paper cutter for trimming roll film after developing. It's cutting surface is 4" x 6" so cutting to 4x5 would be easy, and it will fit in a medium Harrison tent no problem. Don't have the model # though.

*looks like the ones your teacher used in elementary school, but smaller. Not the roller-blade kind, but that might work too.
And so do I. I also used it to cut 70 mm film into sheets to fit a 9x12 cm holder (with a purpose-built reduction insert). I used a block of plywood and attached it to the arm of the trimmer using a double-sided tape to act as a stop when cutting roll film. The trimmer has a small fence so you should have no problem aligning the edge of the roll. I don't have a tent and used it inside a large changing bag. I usually put a cutting mat in the bag to give me a flat and smooth working surface.
The device is inexpensive and if it fails to do what you want you'll find a lot of other uses for it, like cutting negatives of various sizes.
 
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MTGseattle

MTGseattle

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@Hunter_Compton that is a nicely detailed thread. Thank you.

I wanted this to be my "excuse" for finally buying a Rotatrim, but if you add that to the costs it starts eating away at the per sheet cost. Plus, I think only the smallest Rotatrim MCA4 will fit in the harrison I have.

@mshchem It's all a hobby. I spent most of a weekend finally building my print drying rack after quite a few people suggested a folding clothes rack to support the screens.

I would think even in the worst case it should only take an hour to get cutter/s set up and dialed in, maybe 30 minutes to test a chunk of film for any additional fog, then we're just loading 4x5 holders. I don't know what dollar amount to put on the roll in question, I got 4 full boxes of stuff and a little Ricoh 500G all for $150. The main reason was for some still sealed 4x5 Azo and Velox, plus some other 8x10 papers. I've been using a lot of Ilford Delta films. Currently 100 sheets of 4x5 Delta 100 is $220.

There was also a case (24 cans) of the Acu-1 powder to make 1 quart. I've just barely started reading up on that stuff.
 

MattKing

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Sounds like a great argument for buying those IR goggles that you have always been wondering about ....:whistling:
 

mshchem

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Boy I would be screwed without my trusty apx. $50-60 IR goggles. Makes me completely confident to tackle things without fear of scratching film, getting frustrated etc.
 
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MTGseattle

MTGseattle

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Yay. An excuse to buy more esoteric stuff. 😂 I was previously quite happy to start acquiring laboratory glassware. Prior to having a darkroom, the only valid reason for someone with no real interest in chemistry to have beakers and flasks would be for a quirky set of barware.
 
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