If you're getting bad results with D-76 & Pan-F, it's not a problem with the developer or the film. More than likely you are underexposing & grossly overdeveloping. Try Ilford's recommended times for an EI of 25 at 1+1 dilution as a starting point. If your technique is halfway competent, changing developer is likely to make less of a difference than working out your effective film speed for the shadow detail you want & a processing time which gives you the highlight density you need.
then let stand in a slow running water bath for 30 min., at the 30 min. mark I do three inversions slowly and then let set for the duration of 30 more minutes. JohnW
Yes, it's just to maintain as close to 68F as possible. With my darkroom the temp fluctuates according to the time of day. In summer months it's cool in the morning and pretty darn warm in the lat afternoon and evening hours. Winter months it is usually cool most of the time. I have a Leedal mixer valve that lets me target a set temp pretty much where I want. Also, water is of no expense where I'm at, but that's not true for many folks on this site. I could probably get by just fine with a large container/tub of water at 68f without a running flow, but like I said, for me water is of no real cost. JohnWIs the slow running bath to maintain the 68F temp of the developer? What might it rise to otherwise in 60 mins? Over the course of an hour and at the dilution used, I wonder how much a rise in temperature that is typical of your location( presumably in the summer months only) would affect the outcome?
pentaxuser
I'm surprised by you getting dismal results with D76; It's typically a great all-round developer for all films.What's your EI for PanF+?'Would like to try a hand at processing PanF+ in Rodinal for the first time instead of D76 - which almost always gives me dismal results, however, never a problem with FP4.
Any recommendations for timing/dilutions?
I use Xtol replenished for PanF+ also, but it's a little harder to get the result you want as far as contrast go. Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand is as easy as falling off a log when it comes to taming highlights in contrasty lighting. JohnWI get good results with D-76 1+3 and with Rodinal 1+100. It sometimes takes awhile to dial in the right time, temp and EI to suit your needs. Pan-F is not the easiest film to get right the first time.
I fear it is likely that the inconsistency is due to factors outwith the D76 per se. Have a go with Rodinal by all means but recognise the problem with D76 may not be the D76I probably should've used the word "inconsistent" instead of dismal.
Ilford recommends 1:25 at 6min or 1:50 at 11min, at 20C.'Would like to try a hand at processing PanF+ in Rodinal for the first time instead of D76 - which almost always gives me dismal results, however, never a problem with FP4. Any recommendations for timing/dilutions?
Actually I use it more related to the lighting of the scene and the subject matter. Sometimes a little coarser grain might be called for or a little more contrast and then I won't use semi-stand. Two films I really like Rodinal 1+100 semi-stand with are Fuji Acros and PanF+. I'm sure it will work fine with other films also, but haven't tried it with all films. Another film that liked it was the last batch of Shanghai GP3, but haven't tried it on the newest batches just released. I use Xtol-R for 70% of my developing, Pyrocat HDC for about 25% and Rodinal for about 5%. Each has it's own purpose in my darkroom. Give Rodinal Semi-stand a try as it's the only way to know for sure if it's what "YOU" like. JohnWJohn, I'm going to try the semi-stand technique. Do you use it across the board, or specifically for certain types of film?
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