Packard shutters (#6 in this case) installation hurdles and solutions?

[MTGseattle]

I searched the threads back to about 2008 and found bits and pieces of good info scattered about, but nothing all in one thread. @jimgalli has a pretty good Packard thread. Based upon my searching and my own current problem, here is another thread.

The camera: KB Canham 8x10 wood/metal field old style (158mm square lens boards)
the lens: 24" Goerz LD Artar
Shutter: Packard #6

Intended mount: behind the lens (inside the front standard).

Here is a video showing what I am trying to accomplish.

Packard-Ideal has been in business for a long time and is still in business. if one were flush with funds, a custom shutter could be ordered with the exact shutter diameter and overall size to suit almost anything. For this thread (and many scattered throughout the forums), we are dealing with used shutters in sizes that can be made to work.

While my Canham takes 158mm (6.22 inches) lens boards, the interior opening of the lens stage frame is a bit shy of 5" (127mm) that's an immediate loss of useable space.

In my usual fashion, I'm starting on a somewhat technical thread with zero pictures. I will try and rectify that soon.

I have a shutter that fits. My issue while trying to assemble the whole mess is the Goerz retaining ring in relation to the overall size of the shutter and its opening. It looks like I will have to drill a hole in the retaining ring for the #6 pin which also leads to the #6 pin mount flange having to be mounted to the retaining ring. This seems far from ideal, but maybe it's less an issue than I am thinking?

My only other concern is for the lens mounting itself and I think I expressed this concern somewhere else within Photrio and cannot remember the consensus. The Toyo Lens boards that fit my Canham are 3mm thick where the lens mounts. I do not plan on trying to drill and tap threads into 3mm material, instead I will simply bolt the retaining ring to the Toyo board. I'm welcome to any thoughts regarding the pro/cons of this plan.

 

[cowanw]

Are you using a flange or a ring?
Consider having the pin accessible from the inside instead. I shouldn't think it would be that big a deal to dismount the lens and set the pin. Indeed depending on your style of photography you may never change the pin setting.

 

[MTGseattle]

The Artar had its mount ring, so I drilled a large hole in the Toyo board (a mild nightmare for some reason), I enlarged the countersink in the 5 flange holes and bolted it on.
Last hurdle after a few missteps during assembly is as I figured, the pin mount flange.
My gut says to simply machine the negative arc of the pin flange away from the lens flange.
As things stand, everything functions and most importantly it fits in my camera.
My “trick” for the camera air fittings was to source grease zirc fittings and remove the springs and balls and bore them out just a bit for better air flow.
Lastly, do the supplied pin mount screws look appropriate for metal? I’m unsure.
I can post some more pictures of the process once I download my memory card. The ones here are from my phone.

 

[MTGseattle]

Here are a couple more images of my process. I still don't understand why Aluminum is such a pain in the butt for me. I understand its weird heat properties while cutting. I used some stuff called "A-9 Aluminum cutting fluid." I also had some waxy type machining lube on hand. The holesaw was brand new and is rated for metals per the manufacturer. I even used a brand new arbor and bit to get any potential movement/wiggle out of that piece.

You can see my #6 pin suspicions in the photo (pencil pointing to pin hole)

Testing my air fittings

And my benchtop drill press. I had it down on the floor so I could press down on it while manipulating the plunge to try and zero out any vibrations. The holesaw still "walked" about 1/32nd or so but I will accept the results for this iteration. I had to go from a Copal 0 hole to I think 3-1/4" There was a wood "sandwich" so that the pilot bit would not wander.

A better thing would be to have the drill press bolted to a stable and heavy thing. My bench in my "shop" is a solid core door slab mounted to a steel cabinet from a medical office that is on casters (lots of vibration and resonance). Drillpress on floor was my best simple option.

 

[MTGseattle]

I've worked through most of my problems. This thread isn't near clear enough for definitive Packard install information, but hopefully it will help anyone else.
In what is typical for me, I am stuck at the 99-yard line. I took everything apart, machined my recess/arc/notch out of the lens mount ring, reassembled everything, blacked out the internal bright hardware and cut the pin to the proper length.
The pin mount screws as supplied are 1/16' screws. The smallest drill bit I own is 1/16." Fudge. I'll hit the hardware store tomorrow.

 

[jimgalli]

Kudo's on the zirc fitting 90's. I like adaptive re-uses thinking outside the box.

 

[AnselMortensen]

Bravo!
+1 on the grease fittings.

 

[MTGseattle]

Trying to cram through my backlog of exposed sheets, then I can finally load up holders and test this lens/shutter.