Over-diluted C-41 dev

[Relayer]

Last time I tried semi-stand C-41 1+9 for an hour, it was good, but very grainy, but you've done more series of agitation.

yes, you right. film is more grainly, but sharpness increased. I think that 1+9 semistand need some agitation like 5 rotation per 10min

Like Dignan NCF-41, but changed around a bit, and using CD-2, developing Vision Print Film (where CD-2 is the correct developer), also threw in some ECN-2 film (CD-3 native). I should just mix up a CD-2/ECP-2 based developer altered to give low contrast (for pictorial results), but this is promising so far (as it's just for a single film).

I found that same method (2batch color developer) described in patent US3869288 by Leopold Godowsky in 1973. so Dignan isn't inventor ))
I was try to make modified 2batch CD with high concentration CD in first batch and one shot solution of Potassium carbonate + KBr as 2nd batch. In my experiments I found that use Potassium carbonate instead of Sodium carbonate give some speed/activity increase. Also I found very interesting trick that activity depended from temperature of 2nd batch (I was try 23C and 44C). 3min recommended in NCF41 isn't correct time I think. I was use 6min with 2-3 rotation after each 2min. in any case 2batch color dev produce images with low contrast. high speed film (400 and more) sometime underdeveloped. some results:
Fuji Superia Reala 100@100 (5year expired)
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7595/imgtst014003.jpg
http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/5271/imgtst014006.jpg
Kodak MAX400@400 (6year expired)
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/1652/imgtst014012.jpg
Kodak BW400CN @400
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/4544/imgtst014024.jpg
Superia Reala 100@100 (expired 2003) medium format
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/5837742658_2130831fa1_b_d.jpg

PS don't worry about CD-agent type. all my developers based on CD-1 because other CD-* not available in my country. usually no major color correction after scan. so don't worry about CD type

PPS I also develop Kodak Vision2 500T, but it need more color correction because balanced for 5000K instead 3200K daylight
after scan
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6878/imgtst019011.jpg
after adjust WB
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5576/imgtst0190112.jpg

 

[Hexavalent]

I give up. You guys do what you wish, but 10 - 20 years from now, when your images are "dust", I will be too.
PE

Ron, with the amount of silver and stabilizer you've absorbed over the years, I expect you to be totally archival

 

[Photo Engineer]

Ian, thanks. I don't think so though! But, regarding the use of incorrect developing agents please just consider it a reminder to use the right color developing agent for the material at hand. I sometimes slip trying to remember all of the mix and match combinations that Kodak uses and that you guys use.

Sorry.

PE

 

[Athiril]

I just let my film sit in Bath B until completion and use a stop afterit, with a few seconds of agitation, and gentle inversion every 2 minutes just to make sure it comes out even. I let it go to completion

Once I tried 0.34g/L KOH for Bath B with some KBr and development was weird and uneven, I could see shapes of stuff, but no definition within subjects and bad colour. You need plenty of alkali (by mass) available, pH level isn't enough on it's own.

The wrong developing agent gives a narrower density range within the image portion I've found as well.

If you've got your hands on C-41, then use the part C or which part your kit has the CD-4 agent in it to make your Bath A.

The films I use don't have iodide specified in their disclosed formulas, but you should try adding a small amount of potassium iodide to Bath B as well. That's also be in the C-41 kit, should be mixed in the alkali part iirc.. so you could make your Bath B from your C-41 part A.

 

[Relayer]

KOH/NaOH as alkali in color developer is a wrong way