Over developped T-Max 100

[pacman1213]

First, I am new to this group, i have been shooting and developing B/W Film for over 3 years now

For a while, i was shooting mostly Ilford Delta 100 with excellent results.

Recently, i switched to T-Max 100 but i just cant get good results with this film. Both rolls i have shot so far appear to be over Exposed (probably over developed) I use the recommended development times and i am very precise with my times and i always develop at 68 degrees.
I currently use D-76 1:1 for 12 minutes.

I Scan all my film and have to do a lot of PP to get the shots looking decent.

Here are my questions:

Should i use non diluted D-76 and not dilute it 1:1?
Should i use T-Max developer?
Or should i simply shorten my development time?

Does anyone else have this problem? How did you resolve it or what would you recommend?

Sorry for the long post.

 

[L Gebhardt]

If it's over developed then reduce the time. I would take 20% off, so try 9:30. Adjust from there.

 

[tkamiya]

I have been playing with Tmax100 and 400, and XTOL 1:1 for almost a year now. I have to reduce the development time -15% or else, I end up with very dense and contrast happy negative. When I use Tri-X, I don't have this problem.

You'll have to experiment as there's more to it than development time. But, reduced dev time is certainly one thing you CAN try.

 

[pacman1213]

Wow, thanks for the help!

I dont know where i saw 12 mns 1:1 but i must have been looking in the wrong place!

Ill try 9.5 mns as recommended.

 

[fschifano]

Page 6 of this document has the small tank development times for TMX. I suggest you read the entire thing. It will answer most of the questions you might have, and probably a few more that you haven't yet thought about.

 

[eclarke]

How are you developing?

 

[Worker 11811]

12 min. is way too long. I develop T-Max 100 in D-76@1:1 for 9 minutes and that's still a hair bit long. I have been considering 8 1/2.

If you are scanning your images and not printing them in the darkroom you can stand to have thinner negatives. It's the same thing if you print on a condenser enlarger versus a diffusion enlarger.

It has to do with the Callier Effect. Am I right?

 

[Anon Ymous]

...If you are scanning your images and not printing them in the darkroom you can stand to have thinner negatives. It's the same thing if you print on a condenser enlarger versus a diffusion enlarger...

I have a condenser enlarger and I like developing for less time than the manufacturer suggests, at least for sunlit scenes. That gives me lower contrast negatives, which are easier to print with a normal grade. That said, if you're going to reduce development time significantly, you'd better downrate the EI of the film, in order to ensure proper shadow density. If not, you'll end up with shadows that are more or less void and tough to print properly.

 

[Worker 11811]

Yes, I do that. It's becoming such a habit that I don't often think about doing it anymore so it's good that you give that reminder. (To me, anyway. )

 

[Vaughn]

Most my readings and experience indicates that the Tmax films react strongly to changes in development -- in other words, 10% overdevelopment of Tmax affects the negs more than 10% more with Tri-x.