Sorry, it took me a while, but I've finally processed the Ilford Ortho sheets, so that I can update this thread and show you the results.
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I did a 3 minutes pre wash and then I developed them in Rollei Low Contrast 1+4 (300ml of solution) using the Jobo CPE-2 and continuos agitation at 20 °C for 9 and a half minutes
The films were exposed at 50 iso.
Michael suggested a blue filter, I'm thinking along the same lines, but Cyan, as the true complement to Red (Blue being the complement to Yellow). I don't know if the difference would matter, but the Blue filter should hold back some yellow, which the Cyan should pass.
I know this is an old thread, but, Claudia, did you wind up using a filter for these portraits, and, if so, which one?
Also, I'm surprised no one has mentioned x-ray film, which is sold as either blue- or green-sensitive. See this lengthy discussion.
Nowhere near the same as orthochromatic film.You could always try a blue filter on the lens.
Some x-ray film is truly orthochromatic, some is nearly so. I use Ektascan for several reasons, one of them being it is truly ortho.I don't know if you would classify x-ray film as actually being orthochromatic. That is the entire portion of the spectrum designated for orthochromatic film. This film has been sensitized to fit the spectrum of the phosphors used in the intensifying screen. There is blue sensitized film and green sensitized film. The particular film I looked at had no sensitivity in the green region of the spectrum. Its sensitivity peaked at 440 nanometers and was gone by 480 nanometers. Certainly it was not orthochromatic. The film was not even fully sensitized for the blue region. It's always iffy to repurpose something from what it was originally intended.
i realized early on into this thread that i was saying "ortho" when i meant something different ..
i meant blue sensitive ( only!) orthochromatic ( not sensitized with dye ) film, like pre-1870s plates ... the baseline .
at present i am shooting paper negatives, a lot of them, and i was wondering if there was a
film equivalent to my paper negatives ... some of the papers i shoot are vc, and some are graded..
i also do some UV exposures, ... so in the end maybe just a bluish ( i will have to experiment, dark , light, greenish/cyanish )
and filter might works best.
as chemical photography marches forward, it seems that we are going backwards at the same time ..
i kind of hope that down the road there is a manufacturer of just plain old blue sensitive ortho film / plates
instead of pan film. i know it is inferior, and difficult to harness the contrast, and "deal with" because
of its slowness ( dyes increase the speed ) but it would be kind of nice to see a drastic change.
instead of chemical photography trying to keep up all the BS that the digi folks want us to worry about,
( we've already lost color image making to the computer ) i'd like to hunker down
and get back to the roots of photography. i know i am probably a minority,
but images from that early time period seem to be much more interesting than
things made in the last 100 years ...
thanks again for all your help, suggestions and information / education ..
john
I guess I'll explore a problem that I have with concepts about what makes a picture look "old timey" and that has certainly been done in these dicussions. Just what gives the prints made from "orthochromatic films" a 19th century look? These films are probably still the best films to use for men's portraits and have been for a long time and you can still buy them new and fresh. Karsh used orthochromatic on many of his men's portraits, probably not because the film was cheaper but because it was the best for the job at hand. But, of course he was "old fashioned". Is that it? If pan films are making BETTER men's portraits today, I have yet to see any......I thank you!!!!!
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