Options for shooting on Delta 3200 w/ Mamiya C330

[Helge]

Any discussion of the advantages and disadvantages of film vs. digital in low light conditions needs to specify the ISO or ISO range under consideration. Otherwise, the participants tend to talk past one another.

You are not going to get much past 1600 with film and have meaningful shadow information.
That is EV 3 @ 1/30 and an f2 lens, so just hand holdable.
After that you get into a very graphical look, which might be some people’s jam, some of the time.
You might be able to extent to true 3200 with preflashing and/or latensification, even gas hypering and exemplary development with speed as priority.

You will have to employ and master flash after that point.

One could argue that digital also starts breaking up after 1600, but in a different way. There is a reason flash still sells.

The sensors weaker output at lower EVs can be amplified non linearly per pixel. As opposed to the more global homogenous amplification necessary with a chemical amplifier like developer.
That is the major difference.

If you could selectively develop single grain or grain clumps (including knowing which ones to select), film would have about the same sensitivity as digital.

Efforts in making developer more selective is what is called compensating developers. Unfortunately they are not always good for overall speed.

 

[Rachelle]

If I understand you correctly, you are considering essentially introducing two new variables into what you are doing - a new, larger format, and a new film.
If I were you, I'd experiment first with something like HP5+ and a tripod, in order to become attuned to how the larger format affects your results - how images render at wider apertures on larger film. You may find that you don't need the speed of Delta 3200 to achieve your goals when the larger format is brought into play. If you do need some or all of that speed, you can then take the steps to become familiar with and to optimize the relatively special characteristics it has.

I like HP5+ very much and appreciate the results even more on medium format. So I thought I'd try 1 roll of 3200 to challenge my thinking and approach... feed my curiosity : )

 

[Alex Benjamin]

So I thought I'd try 1 roll of 3200 to challenge my thinking and approach

Perfect attitude, best way to learn new stuff .

 

[Rachelle]

In your 35mm testing, how often are you getting shutter speeds higher than 1/500? I understand a bit more regarding what you seem to be after. do you have the means to test your nd filters with your 35mm gear as well?
It's encouraging to hear that the lab you mean to use has already shown it can deal with 3200 properly.

I've shot on a couple of 35mm Delta 3200 rolls for bright early evening and later evening street photography, no ND filter used, at 1/1600 and 1/3200. I did okay with those rolls. For medium format, I'm thinking about indoor photography with the 3200.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I like HP5+ very much and appreciate the results even more on medium format. So I thought I'd try 1 roll of 3200 to challenge my thinking and approach... feed my curiosity : )

I use HP5+ as an alternative to Tri-X and find the two films behave close enough that I cannot tell the difference on a finished print.

 

[Rachelle]

Wonderful photo!
OP, I still don't understand your reason for picking this film. I can think of two: low light and wanting the grain. Other than that, there's little reason to use it. If you want to shoot at wide apertures in bright light, you're much better served with a slower film.

My reason for selecting Delta 3200 was for my curiosity and desire to learn. I tried it out on 35mm and now I'd like to see how it goes on medium format. I initially thought about shooting on this film indoors and others on this thread have posted great photos.

 

[Helge]

My reason for selecting Delta 3200 was for my curiosity and desire to learn. I tried it out on 35mm and now I'd like to see how it goes on medium format. I initially thought about shooting on this film indoors and others on this thread have posted great photos.

Don’t let anyone stop you with “stick to one film” talk. Intelligent experimentation and adventures guided by the joy of gaining tacit knowledge is too rare these days in general, and I’m sorry to say especially in film circles.

D3200 is a great film.
Two things though.
Don’t underexpose and don’t under-develop.
Expose for the low mids (Zone IV & III) so unless you are doing hand metering probably set the meter for 1600 or 1000.
Better give it a bit more time in the soak than too little. If you use a lab just say 3200.

The above would to some seem general advice for all film, which it is not. D3200 is just especially prone to coming out thin and flat if not given enough of everything.

 

[Arthurwg]

My film lab produced wonderful results for their client who shot on Delta 3200 (posted on IG), so I was convinced that they would do a good job with processing my high speed film rolls.

Very interesting thread. Can you tell us the name of the lab you are talking about?

 

[Rachelle]

Very interesting thread. Can you tell us the name of the lab you are talking about?

Hi @Arthurwg , it's Goodman Film Lab based in Texas. Formerly, the lab was based in California.

 

[250swb]

Hi @Arthurwg , it's Goodman Film Lab based in Texas. Formerly, the lab was based in California.

You could also check out the Harman Lab (Ilford) who you'd think should know how to develop Delta 3200. It is a dip and dunk machine but they do push and pull developing so you can vary the ISO you rate it at.

All Film Developing

All Film Developing

harmanlab-us.com