OM Zuiko 28mm 2.8 impossible to dissasembly from front element

[Neofito]

It feels like glued, also other screws from rear element were quite strong... The lens front element has some small fungus I want to clean, but it seems impossible to open. I have open an 50mm 1.8 zuiko with 0 problems.

I have tried letting isopropylic a few minutes, but no luck. Should I try acetone or there are plastic elements behind?

The lens has some fungus and the aperture mechanismus reopened very slowly, some oil from the helicoide got into the mount mecanismus, but thats already cleaned and working.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

It feels like glued, also other screws from rear element were quite strong... The lens front element has some small fungus I want to clean, but it seems impossible to open. I have open an 50mm 1.8 zuiko with 0 problems.

Would you like to post a picture of the parts concerned?

 

[Neofito]

Would you like to post a picture of the parts concerned?

yes, here you have. I can't unscrew the name ring. The part with fungus is the very first optical element.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Have you already tried the spanner wrench here?

 

[Andreas Thaler]

If the ring is stuck, you can try applying WD-40 to the threads. Let it take effect for a while and then try with the spanner wrench again. But be careful so that it doesn't slip. I don't think the ring is glued.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

The fungus is fully developed. I'm afraid the glass will already be etched. But a cleaning will show it.

 

[Neofito]

View attachment 356449

Have you already tried the spanner wrench here?

yes, I've tried and doesn't move at all. On the 50mm on first try already moved

If the ring is stuck, you can try applying WD-40 to the threads. Let it take effect for a while and then try with the spanner wrench again. But be careful so that it doesn't slip. I don't think the ring is glued.

ok, i will try a bit of wd40!

The fungus is fully developed. I'm afraid the glass will already be etched. But a cleaning will show it.

is actually very hard to see, there ive found the perfect angle to show it with the light reflecting. But is my first time cleaning some fungus so I can not tell by experience. I'll keep you updated. Thank you!

 

[Kino]

Have you tried a friction tool on the outer beauty ring? There may be rings above the slotted/keyed ring holding this ring down.

The front element is pretty small compared to the lens barrel; does it screw out independent of the beauty ring?

Try various rings on the front to see.

A rubber plug, like a sink drain plug, can be used. Also a produce can of the right size with a sheet of rubber can be improvised.

Just keep pressure and friction off of the lens surface as much as possible; only on the ring.

NOTE: some beauty rings, like those on the latter Canon FD line, have beauty rings lightly glued in and will snap off when twisted. Not to worry! A few touches of glue puts them right back in place and they are designed to snap off.

 

[Neofito]

Have you tried a friction tool on the outer beauty ring? There may be rings above the slotted/keyed ring holding this ring down.

The front element is pretty small compared to the lens barrel; does it screw out independent of the beauty ring?

Try various rings on the front to see.

A rubber plug, like a sink drain plug, can be used. Also a produce can of the right size with a sheet of rubber can be improvised.

Just keep pressure and friction off of the lens surface as much as possible; only on the ring.

NOTE: some beauty rings, like those on the latter Canon FD line, have beauty rings lightly glued in and will snap off when twisted. Not to worry! A few touches of glue puts them right back in place and they are designed to snap off.

I've tried with friction too but not luck at all. For the state of the lens in general, plus the state of some of the screws and the oil on the mount, I think this lens has lived many things... so probably something a bit more aggressive like wd40 can have better luck

 

[Neofito]

Have you tried a friction tool on the outer beauty ring? There may be rings above the slotted/keyed ring holding this ring down.

The front element is pretty small compared to the lens barrel; does it screw out independent of the beauty ring?

Try various rings on the front to see.

A rubber plug, like a sink drain plug, can be used. Also a produce can of the right size with a sheet of rubber can be improvised.

Just keep pressure and friction off of the lens surface as much as possible; only on the ring.

NOTE: some beauty rings, like those on the latter Canon FD line, have beauty rings lightly glued in and will snap off when twisted. Not to worry! A few touches of glue puts them right back in place and they are designed to snap off.

Oh, about the structure of the lens, there are the schematic of the lens on the internet and also other zuiko are build the same way. The name ring screw inside the filter screw, so I know fornsure how should unscrew, is just that it doesn't move at all, feels glued.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

… so probably something a bit more aggressive like wd40 can have better luck

You should differentiate between solving and dissolving.

WD-40 doesn't dissolve glue, acetone does. But firstly, you don't know whether there is plastic used here that the acetone will dissolve. And also not whether there is glue here. So I would try WD-40 or something similar first. I have yet to experience a glued-in engraving ring.

 

[Kino]

I have yet to experience a glued-in engraving ring.

Find a late model Canon FD 50mm lens. Freaked-me out when it snapped-off, until I discovered the glue...

 

[Andreas Thaler]

You can use a probe to scratch the engraving ring, whether it is made of metal or plastic. But that says nothing about what material is under the ring. I would therefore not use acetone here.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Find a late model Canon FD 50mm lens. Freaked-me out when it snapped-off, until I discovered the glue...

Here I have one at the table, there was no glue.

But nothing is impossible. Maybe the glue came from outside Canon's factory.

 

[Flighter]

It "should" just unscrew with a rubber cone friction tool - at least mine did (pictures are of my Zuiko 28mm f2.8 s/n 308113)

Whilst the beauty ring is metal, the shape makes it difficult to apply either WD40 or acetone in such a way that it can get to the threads (yellow arrows) between the lens body and the ring. The threads on the lens body indicated by the green arrow are the 49mm filter threads.

The picture above shows the back side of the beauty ring.

I've found the best rubber friction tools are the ones below sold by Japan Hobby Tool.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

I've found the best rubber friction tools are the ones below sold by Japan Hobby Tool. View attachment 357364

I have those too, but I get along better with these because they don't deform under pressure and sit more securely on the lens:

18 Sizes Lens Tool/Filter Wrench Set Rubber 37mm 43mm 49mm 52mm 55mm 58mm 62mm 67mm 72mm 77mm 82mm 86mm etc https://a.co/d/cGD7UL1

One of 1001 offerings of the same product from China.

Philbert, forgive me for my cheeky contradiction

 

[Flighter]

Philbert says 'no worries'!

It's a funny old world, I have the grey ones too … but find the black ones grippier, so they are my first go to. They do deform although sometimes you can leave the smaller cones inside which stiffens them.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

@Flighter

Since we're on the subject of OM, I hope this off-topic question doesn't bother.

Here's an OM-3 in Vienna's best shop for older cameras and lenses. Do you think the price is ok? (Since you already own one and I don't yet …)

Camera31 :: Metz mecablitz 36 C-2 Cameras SLR 35mm

Camera 31 by Franz Gibiser

www.camera31.com

 

[Beevo]

You should differentiate between solving and dissolving.

WD-40 doesn't dissolve glue, acetone does. But firstly, you don't know whether there is plastic used here that the acetone will dissolve. And also not whether there is glue here. So I would try WD-40 or something similar first. I have yet to experience a glued-in engraving ring.

A 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil is a wonderful penetrant far better than WD40. In the auto repair business there is a product called Kroil, the mixture above is essentially what they are selling you.

In this application 10% MMO to 90% Acetone would be better.

I am glad you mentioned making sure there were no plastic pieces involved before using any hot solvent

Bill V
Tempe, AZ

 

[Andreas Thaler]

A 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil is a wonderful penetrant far better than WD40.

What do you mean by „far better“?

 

[Beevo]

Far better, as it works as a penetrant that will loosen stuck bolts and nuts as well as other things.

I spent 25+ years as an automotive technician and over that time I have tried just about all the commonly available penetrants (aka Nut Busters) and the 50/50 Acetone/Marvel (or ATF) is the best. WD40 ranks right at or next to the bottom of the list. I use the 50/50 mix in my machine shop in many applications.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Far better, as it works as a penetrant that will loosen stuck bolts and nuts as well as other things.

I spent 25+ years as an automotive technician and over that time I have tried just about all the commonly available penetrants (aka Nut Busters) and the 50/50 Acetone/Marvel (or ATF) is the best. WD40 ranks right at or next to the bottom of the list. I use the 50/50 mix in my machine shop in many applications.

But WD-40 is safe for this, because you never know for sure whether there is plastic in lenses. And then you don't want to leave acetone on there. I am very satisfied with it for safely releasing stuck retaining rings in lenses.

 

[Beevo]

You are correct and I agree, if there is any plastic in there then the 50/50 absolutely should not be used.

Stuck threads in MOST situations will come apart far easier with 50/50 than WD40. WD40 is a lousy choice on stuck threads and 50/50 will wick in far easier.

I agree on the plastic risk.

 

[Flighter]

@Flighter

Since we're on the subject of OM, I hope this off-topic question doesn't bother.

Here's an OM-3 in Vienna's best shop for older cameras and lenses. Do you think the price is ok? (Since you already own one and I don't yet …)

Camera31 :: Metz mecablitz 36 C-2 Cameras SLR 35mm

Camera 31 by Franz Gibiser

www.camera31.com

The off-topic question doesn’t bother me and hopefully doesn't bother Neofito!

I don't have too much of a feel for prices although looking at Ebay prices for OM-3s seem to have increased over last few months (and increased by more than those for OM-3Tis - although the Tis were higher to start with). It's hard to get an idea of market rates with OM-3s as there are not many up for sale in the first place.

My thought is that the price is at the top of the range that I see on Ebay but on the other hand you are buying from a shop with a physical location so if there are problems it is easier to get them dealt with. The shop seems to be quite conservative in their rating of B+, whilst I can see a few marks in the pictures I've seen other sellers rate cameras in worse condition higher. It’s better appearance wise than mine, which had to work for its living before I acquired it!

In 1995 a few years after I got mine I did have to get the main circuit board replaced due to battery drain issues which cost me just under £350. So I would check what guarantee you get and if you do get it, keep an eye on the batteries at first to see if there are any drain problems.

 

[Andreas Thaler]

Thanks! @Flighter