OM problem

[Newt_on_Swings]

I have an OM40/PC and I have put many rolls through it using alkaline batteries (LR44) and it works fine with them. Dying or low power batteries cause the same problems you have. The om4t's that I have are a bit pickier, and like the silver oxide batteries, they are not too expensive either ($6.50-$7.75 for a 10 pack) online from that auction site shipped from the USA, but alkalines are a quarter of the price .

I would first suggest you take out the batteries and check the contacts, clean them a bit, and make sure your bottom plate has all the screws, and they are screwed in tight. You can reset the camera mirror by turning your shutter speed selector to B in manual mode.

I hope it all works out, the OM40 is a nice little gem, it handles great(has a rubberized body with molded grips on back and in front), and has really good OTF metering as well.

 

[S Raff]

and make sure your bottom plate has all the screws

okay so there is one screw missing. With the camera upside down and so the lens faces away from you there is a screw to the left of the battery cover and one in front, same edge as the lens. It is the one in front that is missing. Is this a problem?

 

[Rick A]

Are you sure thats a screw hole? I'm not familiar with that model, but all my OM's that utilize a winder or motor drive have that vacant "screw hole", its an alignment socket for a pin on the winder. BTW, I've always considered the "PC" to stand for plastic crap, handled one once and never picked it up again(the seller only wanted $20 for it). I have owned Olympus cameras since the FTL, which was their first 35mm slr just prior to the OM-1, currantly own three OM-1n's, 2n, and OM-4, threw two OM-10's in the rubbish in less than one years use.

 

[wblynch]

Don't throw OM's in the trash. Even if you hate them or they are unrepairable, the prisms inside are valuable for OM1 repair.

 

[guitstik]

I'll sell my inop OM-10 for $100 then.

 

[Rick A]

Hey Guitstik, as funny as that sounds, that is the going price for busted ones these days and working ones fetch $150 and up on CL--some folks are total imbeciles and buy them.

 

[guitstik]

Really funny considering what I sent you, eh Rick?

 

[Rick A]

Um... er,...ah.........

 

[guitstik]

 

[Allan Swindles]

Almost certainly a battery problem. Try Silver Oxide, SR44, if I'm wrong I'll eat my, errmm........lunch!

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

okay so there is one screw missing. With the camera upside down and so the lens faces away from you there is a screw to the left of the battery cover and one in front, same edge as the lens. It is the one in front that is missing. Is this a problem?

there should only be 3 screws on the bottom plate, one on each side of the body, and one next to the tripod mounting socket. The one you say that you say is missing probably is the winder pin socket so you are ok.

try new batteries!

 

[S Raff]

The new battery hunt begins tomorrow

I developed the film and of the twelve exposures which happened before any issues they were very nice and exposed to the cameras ability, perhaps not mine. The exposures after show the odd good on where I shot in the manual mode and then quite a few overexposed, so consistent with the cameras behavior. So I still would like to get this one working okay but then I'll try and pick up a one digit series body to use with the standard 50mm I have.

 

[John Hermanson]

Yes, but the off switch on the OM-2/OM-2n doesn't cause it to really work all that differently from the OM-2s.

If you pick up an OM-2/OM-2n that has been turned "off" and take a photo, it turns the meter on to set the exposure.

If you leave any of the three cameras "on", they will turn themselves off after a short time.

A 2N fired in the "off" position will give a correct auto exposure if ambient light is high enough for a shutter speed above 1/45th, otherwise a low light exposure will be limited to a maximum of 1/45th, resulting in underexposure. If left "on" meter and drain does not time out, but batteries will last a long time this way any way. Silver oxide cells are the only correct choice. John

 

[John Hermanson]

there should only be 3 screws on the bottom plate, one on each side of the body, and one next to the tripod mounting socket. The one you say that you say is missing probably is the winder pin socket so you are ok.

try new batteries!

The hole on the front edge of the bottom cover is for the alignment pin found on motor drive and winder. It is not a screw hole. I regularly put up overhauled OM-1, 2 and 2S on my site. People buy them, maybe because they're tired of getting stuck with cheap broken bodies and no warranty. John

 

[John Hermanson]

Just noticed that in the manual (just found online) it says "Two 1.5V silver oxide (SR44) batteries or alkaline-manganese (LR44) batteries.

Silver oxide only. Manual was printed before the camera was field tested on consumers. John

 

[S Raff]

Put new batteries in and no change. I'll call it a day with this one for now although will try and clean the magnets some day. I'll look out for a replacement OM body in the mean time.

Thank you