Om-4ti and T-32 flash

[Jeffrey A. Steinberg]

I had an OM-1n for the past almost 30 years and recently "upgraded" to an OM-4Ti and T-32 (before I was using a manual Vivitar 283).

Here is my problem: The manual says put the flash on "auto" and select shutter speed of 60 and proper f stop. When I press the camera, the green light inside the viewfinder never blinks (correct exposure) but the light on the back of the flash does. What gives?

Also, do I have to turn around the flash "card" so there is not the calculator but something like "fully automated control by OM-2"

I fear all of my photos are coming out not properly exposed with the flash.

Any help would be appreciated. I am about to send the units to John at www.zuiko.com so maybe I should just send the flash too.

TIA

--Jeffrey

 

[Ed Sukach]

I had an OM-1n for the past almost 30 years and recently "upgraded" to an OM-4Ti and T-32 (before I was using a manual Vivitar 283).
Here is my problem: The manual says put the flash on "auto" and select shutter speed of 60 and proper f stop. When I press the camera, the green light inside the viewfinder never blinks (correct exposure) but the light on the back of the flash does. What gives?
Also, do I have to turn around the flash "card" so there is not the calculator but something like "fully automated control by OM-2"

YES - Exactly!!

IGNORE the "OM-2" label - the T-32 works perfectly withe the OM-4 as well.
The shutter wil be set automatically when the T-32 is in the hot shoe, or connected with the auxilliary cable.

With the card "slide rule" facing outward, you will either have "Thyristor control" or "manual". If you depress the "lock-out" and set the shutter speed to 1/60 "manual", it will invariably be "manual".

Be careful - you MUST have a good, charged body battery to work the flash synchronization. A dead battery will not operate the shutter and flash together!

 

[Earl Dunbar]

And, that means good SILVER batteries, no alakaline allowed! SR44SW or true equivalent.

 

[Woolliscroft]

I find the OM-4ti does work perfectly well with alkaline batteries. Put the tab on the back of the flash to "control by OM-2" and the camera on auto and you have an auto, TTL flash system.

David.

 

[Ed Sukach]

I find the OM-4ti does work perfectly well with alkaline batteries. Put the tab on the back of the flash to "control by OM-2" and the camera on auto and you have an auto, TTL flash system.

Not quite! The Olympus OM-4 system meters exposure both in Flash and ... uh ... "usual" modes... "OTF" - from light reflected Off The Film itself.

The only other camera that I am aware of that meters "OTF" - true Off The Film - is the Hasselblad 503Cx... whatever they are up to, now ... and only as far as flash control.

The Olympus has been described as the most sophisticated exposure meter they have ever built a camera around... Averaging; spot; "spot averaging"; 5%, 18%, 95% selectable reflectance...

 

[Daniel_OB]

How you guys like zuiko lenses. I had 1.4/50, 2/85, and 4/75-150 a long ago.

www.Leica-R.com

 

[Ed Sukach]

How you guys like zuiko lenses. I had 1.4/50, 2/85, and 4/75-150 a long ago.

I love them all.

The f/4, 75-150 has a "history". Originally I had puchased it as "used" ... and it seemed to shift focus as it was "zoomed". This lens was caught in a flood along with all my Olympus gear. Everything was brought to a local Camera Repair shop .... Knock three times and tell them "Scott" sent you... where everything was disassembled, dried out, cleaned ... all remarkably well, except for that f/4, 75-150 fifteen (15) element - eleven (11) group lens.
That had to be sent to Olympus for repair - and it was RESTORED! It is one of the best-performing lenses I have, and I am not excepting the Hasselblad / Zeiss lenses. Resolution and Contrast - throughout the zoom range - is remarkable! It is my lens of choice for producing transparencies of Artwork - for submission to Galleries and Art Schools - and that is done for the most critical clients of all - the Artists themselves.

 

[Daniel_OB]

I think Ed you correct for that Zuiko zoom. OM stuff is actualy very nice to have and use. I always had a wish to buy OM3 but somehow all my OM gears are gone. I regret.

www.Leica-R.com

 

[Simon E]

With the camera on Auto the OM-4Ti (and the OM-2, OM-2n, OM-2SP, OM-4)will all give TTL automatic exposure with the T32. The viewfinder light will flicker because there is a dedicated third contact on the hotshoe that allows exposure confirmation display to be shown. If the light on the back of the flash flickers but the one in the camera doesn't then it sounds like yours isn't working correctly. Mention it when you send the camera in for CLA.

The shutter speed setting is irrelevant when the camera is in Auto mode. Use the 60 (1/60th second) if you switch to manual.

With the calculator panel showing you have the options:
Manual, full power (GN 32 metres)
Manual, half power (GN 16 metres)
3 Normal Auto settings with appropriate max distance for each. These work like an offbrand auto flash unit and use the sensor inside the 'O' on the front (so don't go covering it up) instead of inside the camera.

There are specifications and a PDF of the T32 instruction manual at the bottom of http://olympus.dementia.org/eSIF/om-sif/flashphotogroup/t32.htm which should explain it better (there are specifications and manuals for most OM components there, in fact).

A comprehensive Olympus OM FAQ that answers lots of other questions about Olympus cameras and lenses is at http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/photo.shtml

Simon.

 

[Simon E]

After a quick test I can confirm that with the OM-2n (and probably the other models) in Auto mode it doesn't matter which way round the panel is placed, or even if it is there at all. If the slider is pushed across to the Manual full power setting GN 32 position (which is what reversing the panel will effectively do) the camera controls flash output.

Only when you switch the camera to Manual and with the shutter speed at 1/60 or slower will the flash unit's slider settings matter.

Simon.