OM-4 with Generic Flash?

[James Carandja]

I recently acquired an om-4ti and already have a simple generic flash (from a Lomo Diana). Is there any way I can get this flash to work with the camera or do I need to get an OM-compatible flash? I thought it might work anyway, but the flash doesn't fire. Thanks for advice!

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Lomo Diana? Don't these things have a different fitting?
Provided the flash has a hot shoe, it should fire in Manual and at 1/60 or less.
Are you sure you have an OM-4TI?
See: http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/OM-4_circuits.html

 

[James Carandja]

Thanks Ricardo - the Diana flash has two prongs but includes an a adapter for a 'standard' hot shoe. I've used it successfully loads of times on a Ricoh 500 st. I'm pretty sure the camera is an OM4-ti because it's embossed on the front of the camera body.

When you say 'in manual' do you mean I set the camera to manual exposure and the shutter to 1/60? Also there are two 1/60 on the camera, one for use when batteries are dead. I think I tried all combinations already but no joy. However if you think it should work I'll give it another shot.

 

[James Carandja]

Sadly no flash from either 1/60. My dilemma now is whether to pick up a cheap generic flash on ebay or go for a more expensive OM branded model ... any thoughts?

 

[wiltw]

1. All you need to fire any flash is that the large center contact of the hotshoe on the camera connects to a similar pin on the hotfoot of the flash, and the 'ground' contact at the edge of the hotshoe contacts the similar edge contact of the hotfoot. That would suffice, for either a manual flash or for Auto photosensor flash.
2. If you want TTL flash metering by the body, then the additional contacts seen on the hotshoe need to contact similar pins on the hotfoot of the flash.

 

[AgX]

My dilemma now is whether to pick up a cheap generic flash on ebay or go for a more expensive OM branded model.

There are generic german and japanese flashes that by switching or by adapter can be set for an OM up to OM2/OM30.

 

[James Carandja]

Aha! I hadn't realised about the 'ground' part. I just reversed the flash on its adapter so the ground is on the other side (aesthetically wrong but physically fine) and it fired! Evidently the Ricoh grounds on either side but the Olympus only on one.
Thanks for your help people.

 

[baachitraka]

Cheap flash: Metz Mecablitz 32 CT3. Works really good with SCA 320/321 adapter.

Hammer heads from Metz is really nice to but hand hold and focus may not be fluent.

 

[MattKing]

The Olympus T20 and T32 flashes tend to be quite cheap on the used markets. And they work really well.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

In the UK you should be able to find a T32 for around £20 and/or the T20 for less than £15.
I wouldn't say they are expensive.
You get the benefit of full TTL in Auto mode and the old fashion auto aperture in Manual.
Please, read the manual for further info.

 

[onre]

One more recommendation for the original Olympus flash units. The TTL metering is very good.

 

[GRHazelton]

Please check with this site http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html ANY CAMERA with an electronically controlled shutter may be vulnerable to high voltages from many electronic flashes. You may be amazed at the voltages presented to your camera by seemingly innocent flash units.

 

[AgX]

A electronically controlled shutter does not necessarily mean that the synchro-circuit is succeptible to high voltage.
The latter may be just a mechanical switch.

 

[Svenedin]

I've had an OM4-Ti for many years and I have the T20, T32 and F280 flashes. I find the T20 the most useful for what I do as it's so compact (but not very powerful). I can carry the T20 in my bag and not notice it. The T20 and T32 are not expensive. The F280 is more expensive but can sync at any shutter speed although it is bit bulky and cumbersome. With an adapter from hot shoe to PC socket I use the T20 and T32 on my old Zeiss folders.