OM-2n light meter, always +1 ev

[Davud]

Hi. I am new to the forums here at apug.
I recently purchased a near mint OM2-n. Compared to my OM-10, Yashica FX-3 and mirrorless digitals, it always measures the scene approximately one stop brighter. I know I can dial down the ASA to compensate but I am curious about the behavior.
I am using new AG13 batteries in all above cameras (except digital of course).

 

[Svenedin]

Or you can turn the exposure compensation dial to -1. Why not just run a roll through at what the camera suggests and see what you get before compensating?

 

[Davud]

Or you can turn the exposure compensation dial to -1. Why not just run a roll through at what the camera suggests and see what you get before compensating?

] I can, but I don't want to get a roll of underexposed photos. Especially since there is a Agfavista 200 in it right now and it sucks in the shadows if underexposed.

 

[Svenedin]

Fair enough! I use silver oxide batteries in my OM4-Ti cameras and the light readings seem consistent. Are you using manual or auto mode? I may be completely wrong here but as I understand it, your camera uses OTF (off the film) metering. The viewfinder displays the expected exposure in "auto" but can actually adjust this "in flight" as the photos is taken. In manual you get what you have set but the light sensor can be affected by light entering the viewfinder especially if the sun is behind you. You will have to take a chance and either trust the camera or your other cameras and view the results.

 

[Davud]

Thank You. Is there any difference in voltage between silver oxide and alkaline in the beginning? I know alkaline loses voltage over time but i think there is a voltage regulator in OM-2 and OM10 compared to OM-1 (which is a pain to find a suitable battery for). That is why there is a battery check function in them.
Anyway, since there is no way to figure out if a photo is 1EV overexposed or not with the agfavista film, I think I should try trusting the OM-2n meter for a few shots on the roll.

 

[Bill Burk]

I would definitely take some test pairs - one on auto and it's twin on manual. Then you will know if the in- finder display is off (if the manual shot is underexposed)

 

[Davud]

I would definitely take some test pairs - one on auto and it's twin on manual. Then you will know if the in- finder display is off (if the manual shot is underexposed)

Yeah. I will definitely do that. Is there any particular scenario that can noticeably show 1stop under/overexposure on the mentioned film?

 

[Bill Burk]

Just something overall gray, fill the frame. Then look at the two side by side. If there was a real 1 stop exposure difference, then you would see a difference.

 

[OlyMan]

Don't forget that in Auto (aperture priority) the reading in the viewfinder is just a guide because the camera will use OFT during exposure.

 

[OlyMan]

... OM-1 (which is a pain to find a suitable battery for).

lost track of how many times I've read this over the years, even though zinc-air equivalents have been around for at least as long as the mercury batteries have been banned, if not longer. Just hunt down some 1.4V ZA675 hearing aid batteries (the extra 5mV makes next to no difference). I've been using them for nearly 15 years.

 

[Davud]

lost track of how many times I've read this over the years, even though zinc-air equivalents have been around for at least as long as the mercury batteries have been banned, if not longer. Just hunt down some 1.4V ZA675 hearing aid batteries (the extra 5mV makes next to no difference). I've been using them for nearly 15 years.

Will these do?

 

[MattKing]

Those are the type of batteries, but I don't think they are the correct size.
The original mercury batteries were quite large - size 625. Most approach the issue of replacing them by inserting a current battery that is somewhat smaller - 675 size - and then taking steps to ensure proper fit.
The 675 batteries can sometimes be used with a little bit of foil to improve the fit, but they are easiest to use if you buy an inexpensive adapter that improves the physical fit of the battery.
You keep and re-use the adapter, and buy the easily replaceable hearing aid batteries at any place that sells them.
The adapters are available from a number of sources. I bought mine from Jon Goodman, who is best known as being an excellent source for replacement light seal kits, but sells the adapters as well.
There is a yahoo email address for him here: http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html
Jon also posts here on APUG/PHOTRIO.

 

[OlyMan]

Will these do?
View attachment 186091

Yep MattKing is correct they are slightly smaller than the original, you can buy an adaptor to improve the fit, but I've used them successfully in two OM-1's and a 35RC without adaptor for near enough all this century and never had an issue. The Weincell is also available, but they are over priced and other than being the correct size they offer little to no additional benefit IMO.

 

[mgb74]

A #9 o-ring also works great as a spacer to allow use of the 675 zinc air battery in the OM-1 and many other older cameras that used the 625 battery. As long as the camera battery contacts are on the top and bottom (and not side) of the battery. I find them in the plumbing department of home improvement and hardware stores.

But back to your OM-2. I assume you did a reasonably controlled test measuring against a blank wall using the same lens (or at least the same focal length) on your OM-2 and the other cameras. If so, it's reasonable to assume that the OM-2 meter is off. But keep in mind that it's at least possible that your other cameras are reading 1/2 stop off in one direction and the om-2 reading 1/2 stop off in the other direction.

I would use the iso dial to compensate when exposing the film in the camera. But sacrifice a few frames to do a test and bracket any critical photos. Of course, if your prints are machine processed, the auto exposure when printing might try to undo your bracketing.

 

[Chan Tran]

You just have to test the camera with film unless you have instruments to test them without film. Batteries is definitely not the problem. The OM-2 has 2 metering circuits one for auto and one for manual.

 

[Davud]

Of course, if your prints are machine processed, the auto exposure when printing might try to undo your bracketing.

Yes, they are machine processed and scanned. The only way I can observe under/overexposure is by grain and tonal transition; Which is pretty difficult to detect at 1stop difference on a 3000x2000 scan.
As long as I use color negatives, the problem with incorrect metering is unnecessary slow shutter and blurred photos (for +ev) OR tinted and grainy shadows(for -ev) . But I plan to use some couple of years expired t-max rolls and that is when accurate exposure matters. Guess I should just finish this roll and see the results.

 

[MattKing]

But I plan to use some couple of years expired t-max rolls and that is when accurate exposure matters. Guess I should just finish this roll and see the results.

20 or so year expired 35mm T-Max 100 shot at an EI of 50 in an OM-2s (IIRC):

 

[klownshed]

I've found that my OM-2 (and 2n) likes SR-44 batteries, but not so much LR-44s.

Have you tried silver oxide?

For my OM-1 I use a 675 hearing aid battery which is held in place with a cut down hair bobble I 'borrowed' from my wife. It makes the battery fit a treat.

 

[Davud]

View attachment 186097
20 or so year expired 35mm T-Max 100 shot at an EI of 50 in an OM-2s (IIRC):

Nice one. Stored at room temp?
But mine are ISO 400, and probably not cold stored (Bough them at a bargain price from etsy).
Here is how my lab process and scan color film:
OM1,Agfa 200, 3 stops over:

FX-3, Fuji c200, 1.5 stop under:

 

[Davud]

I've found that my OM-2 (and 2n) likes SR-44 batteries, but not so much LR-44s.
Have you tried silver oxide?
For my OM-1 I use a 675 hearing aid battery which is held in place with a cut down hair bobble I 'borrowed' from my wife. It makes the battery fit a treat.

Yeah, I will try SR44. But I don't think the effect would be as much as 1 stop.

 

[MattKing]

Nice one. Stored at room temp?
But mine are ISO 400, and probably not cold stored (Bough them at a bargain price from etsy).
Here is how my lab process and scan color film:
OM1,Agfa 200, 3 stops over:
View attachment 186104

FX-3, Fuji c200, 1.5 stop under:
View attachment 186105

My film was probably stored frozen for most of the time. I didn't obtain it until recently.
I wouldn't put much weight though on how your lab scanned and printed shots appear, unless you have past experience as a reason to rely upon them.
How do the negatives appear?
Can you try some in-date slide film instead - that is always the best test for a camera.