OM-1 vs OM-2: help me decide!

mdarnton · Dec 8, 2011

I used Oly stuff when it was new, as companions to my Leicas, and there was one thing that always irritated me: the lack of anything to hold on to on the right hand's side. It's really small over there, compared to every other camera, and I always had a problem with that. Somewhere along the line I picked up an OM2n-SP, and in addition to being a really wonderful camera, it had an accessory lump grip you could screw on that side, the smaller version of what all modern cameras have, that really was a help in holding the d!@#ed camera. If the straight OM2n had that, that would decide things for me. Otherwise, if I were looking now, I'd find an SP with the grip. It really makes a difference. After that camera, I bought a winder for my remaining OM1 just to have the grip.

I know the SP has collected a lot of demerits for internal complexity, though.

Grainy · Dec 8, 2011

One (maybe the only) thing I don't like with my OM-1 is that is hasn't got any display for showing the shutterspeed in the viewfinder.

Rick A · Dec 8, 2011

mdarnton said:
I used Oly stuff when it was new, as companions to my Leicas, and there was one thing that always irritated me: the lack of anything to hold on to on the right hand's side. It's really small over there, compared to every other camera, and I always had a problem with that. Somewhere along the line I picked up an OM2n-SP, and in addition to being a really wonderful camera, it had an accessory lump grip you could screw on that side, the smaller version of what all modern cameras have, that really was a help in holding the d!@#ed camera. If the straight OM2n had that, that would decide things for me. Otherwise, if I were looking now, I'd find an SP with the grip. It really makes a difference. After that camera, I bought a winder for my remaining OM1 just to have the grip.

I know the SP has collected a lot of demerits for internal complexity, though.

I put one of those "grip adapters" on my OM-4, and it helps. I have since put winder-2's on all my OM's, no more problems with them feeling small. Naturally, if you hold one properly you don't have that, as you are supposed to rest the body in the palm of the left hand and gripping the lens, whilst the right is for shutter release and film advance, not a death grip..

adam211 · Dec 8, 2011

In anticipation of my OM-1n I went to Goodwill to see if I could find any good buys.

I found an Olympus MC 50mm f/1.8 marked "JAPAN" on the front. Only problem is on the element closest to the lens mount there's a hairline crack. Will this affect pictures? Picked up for $5.99. Still has the inspection sticker on it.

Also found an Olympus 35mm f/2.8 (also marked JAPAN if that matters). This one looks flawless. Not a dent or scratch on the thing. $3.99.

Also found a Vivitar 28mm f/2.0. Glass is good, though metal on mount is scratched. Rest looks excellent. I don't even know if this was OM mount. Front says vivitar and focal length and "AUTO WIDE-ANGLE". Near mount it says O/OM on barrel. Is this an OM lens? $6.99. Worth the price?

Pretty happy with the 35mm, not sure if I did well on the other two. Did I waste my money? They had some others that looked cheap for other systems but these were the ones that looked the best quality.

ColdEye · Dec 8, 2011

Those are not a waste of money. you got nice lenses for such a small amount of money.

John Koehrer · Dec 8, 2011

So for ~$10 you have two wide angle lenses for the Camera you don't have yet. =). Yes the marking on the Vivitar means Olympus mount. I had an OM1 when they first came out and didn't care for the SS around the lens mount. Didn't like Nikkormats either, same configuration.
Depending on the size of your hands any OM may be too small to hold comfortably, then the winder comes in handy, even if you don't want one.
These critters are much smaller than the Canon you had.
The crack in the 1.8 will likely have no visible effect. You're going to need to shoot it to find out.

BTW OM1n would be my choice if I went that way.

Dali · Dec 8, 2011

Go for the Zuiko 35mm if it is a f.l. you work with. It is a very good lens.

Stay away from the Vivitar as it often has diaphragm issue.

For the 50mm lens, it is easy to find a f/1.8 Zuiko for a song. I won't take any risk with a faulty lens.

Back to cameras... The OM1 (whatever flavor) is a very good camera with all you can expect from a semi-auto camera. Get it checked by John Hermanson and you are good for 15 years.

Rick A · Dec 8, 2011

Dali said:
Back to cameras... The OM1 (whatever flavor) is a very good camera with all you can expect from a semi-auto camera. Get it checked by John Hermanson and you are good for 15 years.

What do you mean by this statement? An OM-1 is never "semi auto" they are manual only with fully mechanical shutter, battery only powers a light meter. OM-2 has auto mode via aperture priority, with an electronically controlled shutter that requires electricity to power it, even in manual mode.

RH Designs · Dec 9, 2011

adam211 said:
I'm especially looking forward to the viewfinder as I think it's supposed to be an upgrade from my digital rebel.

It'll be like the difference between a picture window and squinting through a keyhole.

adam211 · Dec 10, 2011

Dali said:
Go for the Zuiko 35mm if it is a f.l. you work with. It is a very good lens.

Stay away from the Vivitar as it often has diaphragm issue.

For the 50mm lens, it is easy to find a f/1.8 Zuiko for a song. I won't take any risk with a faulty lens.

Back to cameras... The OM1 (whatever flavor) is a very good camera with all you can expect from a semi-auto camera. Get it checked by John Hermanson and you are good for 15 years.

I had already bought all three. Turns out that the 50mm f/1.8 didn't have a scratch--it was just a hair that came right off. Glass is perfect. That's the good news. [edit: although the focus ring is a little stiff]

You are right, however, about the Vivitar. On closer inspection the aperture blades aren't closing down. I'll either try taking it apart or passing it on to someone who wants to try fixing it.

wblynch · Dec 10, 2011

adam211 said:
I had already bought all three. Turns out that the 50mm f/1.8 didn't have a scratch--it was just a hair that came right off. Glass is perfect. That's the good news.

You are right, however, about the Vivitar. On closer inspection the aperture blades aren't closing down. I'll either try taking it apart or passing it on to someone who wants to try fixing it.

That is common for Vivitar lenses for OM. They have a tiny spring that closes the aperture blades. When the mechanism gets sticky the spring stretches out and can't do it's job. I have a new-in-box Vivitar 24mm/2.8 that needs the same repair.

John Hermanson · Dec 10, 2011

Most OM-1/1N I've seen "converted" to 1.5v battery have the alkaline cell which is not good. Alkaline battery voltage starts to fall as soon as you use it, so any calibration you had is gone. I'd recommend either a 1N or a 2N. Both have ALL the factory improvements that were ever made to the original model. OM-2N circuit IC's are proprietary chips, they were made for Olympus by Sharp. You won't find them anywhere. I have new OM-2/2N circuits in stock, along with meter movements. The vast majority of the time, OM-2/2N lockup/shutter problems are NOT cause by a "bad" circuit board. You really have to know what to check to determine if a circuit has gone bad. I replaced one recently only because it was damaged by tampering. Just "prying up" the circuit cover can crack the board.

OM-2/2N has an electronically controlled shutter. 2- 1.55V silver oxide batteries power an electromagnet that controls shutter speeds. It has a manual setting (match needle, you set aperture and shutter speed) and AUTO setting. On auto, you set aperture, camera sets shutter speed automatically based on how much light is reflected by the first shutter curtain/film after the mirror goes up). This is referred to as "OTF" Off The Film auto exposure. OM-1 battery is only for the meter movement. Shutter is completely mechanical, no auto setting.

Also, I've seen some big camera dealers simply push new slot foam down over the old rotting foam without cleaning anything out. Buyer beware.

John

Dali · Dec 11, 2011

Rick A said:
What do you mean by this statement? An OM-1 is never "semi auto" they are manual only with fully mechanical shutter, battery only powers a light meter. OM-2 has auto mode via aperture priority, with an electronically controlled shutter that requires electricity to power it, even in manual mode.

To me semi-auto means that the meter is coupled with aperture and speed settings and that metering is done without stopping down (unlike most of M42 cameras for instance). This is how this type of cameras is defined in some countries.

Regarding OM camera behavior, I am aware of it as I own OM cameras since 1983.

Roger Cole · Dec 11, 2011

I've never heard of this definition. In fact I've never heard of a "semi-auto" camera.

Ulrich Drolshagen · Dec 11, 2011

Roger Cole said:
I've never heard of this definition. In fact I've never heard of a "semi-auto" camera.

May be, definitions change over time. My Rolleiflex for instance has been considered automatic as it does find the beginning of the film fully automatic.

Ulrich

MattKing · Dec 11, 2011

Dali said:
To me semi-auto means that the meter is coupled with aperture and speed settings and that metering is done without stopping down (unlike most of M42 cameras for instance). This is how this type of cameras is defined in some countries.

Regarding OM camera behavior, I am aware of it as I own OM cameras since 1983.

I think that I recall that sort of use of semi-auto as well - from about the time of the Olympus FTL

mdarnton · Dec 11, 2011

Rick A said:
I put one of those "grip adapters" on my OM-4, and it helps. I have since put winder-2's on all my OM's, no more problems with them feeling small. Naturally, if you hold one properly you don't have that, as you are supposed to rest the body in the palm of the left hand and gripping the lens, whilst the right is for shutter release and film advance, not a death grip..

Yes, of course, but not having anything to hold onto doesn't help for carrying the camera in the many minutes or hours you're not pushing the button.

wblynch · Dec 11, 2011

I always carried my OMs in my left hand, by the lens, under the body. It's an easy lift to the eye while bringing my right hand to position. Typically I have the strap wrapped around my left hand for security.

Pumalite · Dec 11, 2011

I love mine:

triton76 · Nov 18, 2014

OM1

What a question?
There is no way around a OM1 ... mine survided 2yrs east africa, adjust voltage divider to 1.5v and use SR44 for lightmeter.
Never go out without a 2/85 or a 2.8/28 - you may miss life worth living ;o)

E. von Hoegh · Nov 18, 2014

MattKing said:
I think that I recall that sort of use of semi-auto as well - from about the time of the Olympus FTL

I saw an old ad for the Contaxen II and III, touting them as "autofocus" - the coupled rangfinder automatically adjusting the lens for proper focus.
Then you have semi-automatic (or autoloading meaning either recoil or gas pressure bled off the barrel is used to cycle the action, feeding a live cartridge and cocking the striker. There's also a straight blowback design typically .22rf or small caliber pistols, relying on the inertia of the brecchblock to keep the action closed until pressure falls to a safe level) firearms often and improperly called "automatics".

Old-N-Feeble · Nov 18, 2014

Three-year-old thread...

Les Sarile · Nov 18, 2014

Old-N-Feeble said:
Three-year-old thread...

What's 3 years when the cameras are over 40 years old.

Maybe the "younger" OM-3 would be more appropriate . . .

OM-1 vs OM-2: help me decide!

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