Olympus v Nikon

[baachitraka]

External meter is handy for any situations.

Digiflash/Digisix or equivalent from Sekonic

 

[Bob Bibab]

I have seen a Nikon FM3A for sale. But is is missing the spring that holds the rewind button in place. How big a problem is that? Is it easily fixable?

 

[BradS]

I have seen a Nikon FM3A for sale. But is is missing the spring that holds the rewind button in place. How big a problem is that? Is it easily fixable?

it is an easy thing to fix if you can find the part but I'd take it as a (very bad) sign that some careless fool has tried to repair something deeper inside the camera (took the top cover off) himself...if he/she couldn't even get this minor thing right, what else is messed up. I'd pass.

 

[Bob Bibab]

it is an easy thing to fix if you can find the part but I'd take it as a (very bad) sign that some careless fool has tried to repair something deeper inside the camera (took the top cover off) himself...if he/she couldn't even get this minor thing right, what else is messed up. I'd pass.

Damn. Ok. Thanks. I thought I was going to pick up a bargain.

 

[Bob Bibab]

Check Ebay for prices and you're in London so it's difficult for me in in USA to tell. If you want built in meter don't get the F because your Zeiss lenses don't have the meter coupling for them. Also not the F2 Photomic, F2S or F2SB. For the F2 you should pick either the F2A or F2AS. The F2A price is very reasonable while the F2AS is very expensive. The F3 or F3HP prices are quite reasonable but it's battery dependent if you mind (I don't in fact I like it because of that). The FM2 or FM2n are quite expensive too. The FM is a lot less expensive.

What's with all the different F2 variations? Is it different viewfinders? And how can I tell which cameras my lenses meter with and which they don't?

Are there any disadvantages getting the electronic shutter other than the battery dying mid shoot? Are they harder or more expensive to repair, more prone to breakdown? Could the batteries be discontinued?

 

[CMoore]

There are a few websites that deal with lens capability. One of the members with that in mind WILL be by to give you the links.

Regards the F2....... technically i suppose "The Viewfinder" is the same in all of them. It is the meter and lens link that each one uses that determines the A, AS, S, SB status.
Again, members better than myself......
Jesus, maybe i should have just remained quiet. I hope that was SOME help.

 

[BradS]

What's with all the different F2 variations? Is it different viewfinders? And how can I tell which cameras my lenses meter with and which they don't?

Are there any disadvantages getting the electronic shutter other than the battery dying mid shoot? Are they harder or more expensive to repair, more prone to breakdown? Could the batteries be discontinued?

Many excellent questions here.
The difference between the various flavors of Nikon F2 is, indeed as you guess, the finder. The F2, like many professional 35mm SLRs has interchangeable finders. Much has been written on the internet about the details but, the most important things to consider is that for the F2, the light meter is part of the finder so, different finders, different flavors of Nikon F2 have different light meters. Some have "center the needle" and some have LEDs. Some use CDS photo cells and some use SBC photo diodes. My very strong personal preference is for the Nikon F2AS or Nikon F2SB because these are the only two that use SBC diodes - the others, the F2, F2A and F2S all use CDS cells...and from what I've seen (sample size = 5) all of the ones that use CDS cells are non-linear at this point in their lifetimes.

All of the F2 finders will work with any lens that has the "bunny ears", the F2A (DP-11 finder) and F2AS (DP-12) finder are designed to use the newer AI lenses and are slightly easier to mount for this reason (you don't have to do the Nikon shuffle with these). These last two finders will also work with the older non-AI lenses but, you sacrifice some convenience. Again...lots has been written on these...too much for me to recount here. I'll just summarize by saying that there is a very good reason that F2AS and F2SB enjoy higher resale values.

Hmmm...the electronic shutter thing gets into religion. There are many very good technical reasons why they are better than mechanical shutters but many folks...well they get religious about the subject. Batteries are small, cheap and easy to carry. If the battery dies, replace it...no biggie....but...religion!

Batteries...yes, many cameras (well, technically their light meters) from the 1960's and very early 1970s use a mercury cell. These have been banned in most (all?) developed countries and are no longer available. There are work arounds...but there are also very, very many very good (if not better) cameras that were designed to use commonly available batteries.


I'll try to summarize the F2 finders....
Nikon F2, DP-1 finder, center needle, CDS cells, pre-AI
Nikon F2s, DP-2 finder, LEDs, CDS cells, pre-Ai
Nikon F2SB, DP-3 finder, LEDs, SBC photo diodes, pre-AI
Nikon F2A, DP-11 finder, center needle, CDS cells, AI
Nikon F2AS, Dp-12 finder, LEDs, SBC photo diodes, AI

all of these are powered by two modern, common and inexpensive silver-oxide cells installed in the base of the camera body (not in the meter itself)

 

[Chan Tran]

What's with all the different F2 variations? Is it different viewfinders? And how can I tell which cameras my lenses meter with and which they don't?

Are there any disadvantages getting the electronic shutter other than the battery dying mid shoot? Are they harder or more expensive to repair, more prone to breakdown? Could the batteries be discontinued?

Besides the plain prism finder DE-1, the waist level finder and sport finder (which all don't have meter) there are 5 version of the so called photomic finders that have meter.
1. The first one was call F2 Photomic has Cds photocell and meter needle for pre AI lenses and need the rabbit ear (or prong) on the lens to couple with the camera. Nikon AI/AI-s lenses have this although it's not needed for cameras designed to take AI/AI-s lense. However your Zeiss lenses don't have this prong. The finder is called DP-1
2. The second one is F2 Photomic S (I will drop the term photomic for short) just call it F2S. This one has silicon photocell and 2 LED to indicate exposure. The meter coupling is the same as the F2 photomic. This finder is called DP-2
3. The third one is the improved version of the F2S which is called F2SB. It's the same as the F2S but has 3 LED instead of just 2. This finder is called DP-3
4. The fourth one is the F2A which is very much the same as the F2 photomic but has the coupling for AI/AIS lenses so it would work well with your Zeiss lenses. This finder is called DP-11.
5 The fifth one is the F2AS which is very much the same as the F2SB but with AI coupling. It is called DP-12. And so it works well with you Zeiss lenses.

I bought the F2AS in 1977 and when the F3 was introduced I felt it was inferior to the F2 because it has electronic controlled shutter and is battery dependent. In 1982 I bought the F3HP not because I liked it better than the F2AS but because I could buy the F3HP and the MD-4 motor drive for less than the cost of the MD-2/MB-1 combo for the F2. But the F3HP has grown on me and its electronic proved to be very reliable and being electronically controlled the shutter speed (especially at lower speed) are very accurate compared to that of the F2. So now even with a totally manual camera I still prefer an electronic controlled shutter. But that's just me.

 

[Les Sarile]

What's with all the different F2 variations? Is it different viewfinders? And how can I tell which cameras my lenses meter with and which they don't?

Are there any disadvantages getting the electronic shutter other than the battery dying mid shoot? Are they harder or more expensive to repair, more prone to breakdown? Could the batteries be discontinued?

A most excellent site worth exploring on this is http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/index.htm
Beware that it has extensive coverage of many other cameras and may contribute to GAS . . .

The F2 battery (standard and still readily available) is in the base of the body and powers the metered viewfinders.

 

[Alan Gales]

I actually had a D700. This is why I have some Nikon and Zeiss glass. Didn't really enjoy shooting it much (100s and 100s of photos never looked at again. 20 mindless shots of the exact same scene without giving much thought just in case one turned out to be slightly better - my neuroses probably ...). The film camera and the cost associated with shooting makes me value each frame. Which I what I need I think. And then there is physicality of the product and the suprise of seeing the final result. I also like old gear and mechanical stuff as objects in themselves. So I think film suits me better.

So I ended up giving my D700 to my dad with a couple of lenses. I think he enjoys it more than I would.

Any way, if I was going to go digital again I would go for a mirrorless Fujifilm. Don't see what the point of the mirror viewfinder is on a digital. All the disadvantages of bigger camera and bigger lenses (and optical corrections ...). Any advantage the optical viewfinder would have disappearing as chips get faster...

Yeah, when shooting digital you have to fool yourself into thinking it's a film camera. Otherwise you end up shooting way too many shots.

I used to have a Nikon D200 and then D300 for shooting sports. I sold them both after my daughter quit pitching fast pitch softball. I then bought a Fujifilm x100s which I still have. I liked it so much that I recently bought an Xt3 so I could swap lenses. I shot my daughter's college graduation with it last December. I like old gear and mechanical stuff too and I agree that film cameras are more fun to shoot. For me it's nice to have both.

 

[blockend]

The OM lenses are also usually smaller than their Nikon counterparts

That's true, but not by much. SLR camera lenses can only be shrunk by using optical formulas with a flat profile - "pancake" lenses. The alternative is to save space and weight with smaller front shielding, narrower aperture and shutter rings, smaller focus grip. Or the Canon route which is to manufacture in thermoplastics instead of metal.

I used an OM1 in the 1970s and early 80s. Nice camera, good range of lenses, that for whatever reason never gained the traction of Nikon in the professional arena.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

I used an OM1 in the 1970s and early 80s. Nice camera, good range of lenses, that for whatever reason never gained the traction of Nikon in the professional arena.

I spotted a black Olympus OM series camera in the 2019 film 'The Souvenir' yesterday - set in the mid 80s - looked like the film makers had found a very good example, no cosmetic wear etc.

 

[blockend]

Thanks. I will check these out. But yes, I was looking for a fully mechanical camera. I guess price will play a part. Any thoughts on the FMs v the Fs? I prefer something on the small side. Is there any disadvantage with the FMs?

2020 prices are the best guide to popularity of a camera. Generally speaking, small wins over big. This means plain prism F and F2 bodies are considerably more expensive, than metered head versions. This is in contrast to original prices. The F3 is smaller than both, and prices have risen steeply in recent years. FM and FE models are also popular, and attract a premium in good condition. More technically advanced F4 and F5 Nikons, being larger, are not as popular as the F3.

I'm assuming models in good cosmetic condition and full working order.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

More technically advanced F4 and F5 Nikons, being larger, are not as popular as the F3.

For the very small amount of 35mm photography I do at the moment I'm happy with the F100 and FM2N; however if I were to do more I'd be tempted by a single digit 'F' camera as I appreciate the handling of larger camera bodies. My concern about the F4 or F5 would centre more around the reliability of now aging electronics and future servicing options.

 

[Les Sarile]

2020 prices are the best guide to popularity of a camera. Generally speaking, small wins over big. This means plain prism F and F2 bodies are considerably more expensive, than metered head versions. This is in contrast to original prices. The F3 is smaller than both, and prices have risen steeply in recent years. FM and FE models are also popular, and attract a premium in good condition. More technically advanced F4 and F5 Nikons, being larger, are not as popular as the F3.

I'm assuming models in good cosmetic condition and full working order.

The Nikon F, F2 and F3 are pretty similar in size - plain or metered.

 

[Bob Bibab]

Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!

I had no idea that things were going to get this complicated. Looks like as far as the F2 is concerned I should be looking at the F2A and F2AS.

Now I must do some more reading and research into the F3, the FE and the FM3A (and maybe the FM2N). Not sure if this is slowing down the GAS or adding fuel to the fire.

 

[CMoore]

The Nikon F, F2 and F3 are pretty similar in size - plain or metered.

I have owned many of the different brands of cameras mentioned in this thread.
"Size" was almost a meaningless concern.
Weight difference was much more noticeable....to me.

 

[Les Sarile]

I have owned many of the different brands of cameras mentioned in this thread.
"Size" was almost a meaningless concern.
Weight difference was much more noticeable....to me.

My first slr was the EOS3 with some L lenses. Imagine my surprise when I picked up a Pentax MX.

What was even more eye opening was how gigantic the viewfinder is in the much smaller MX compared to the EOS3.

 

[Chan Tran]

My first slr was the EOS3 with some L lenses. Imagine my surprise when I picked up a Pentax MX.

What was even more eye opening was how gigantic the viewfinder is in the much smaller MX compared to the EOS3.

That is why you started to buy so many cameras?

 

[Les Sarile]

That is why you started to buy so many cameras?

At first I was so impressed with the build, condition and performance of a 1960s era Minolta Hi-Matic 9 listed on a local CL for cheap.

I figure if this is representative of manual cameras what else did I miss . . .

 

[CMoore]

My first slr was the EOS3 with some L lenses. Imagine my surprise when I picked up a Pentax MX.

What was even more eye opening was how gigantic the viewfinder is in the much smaller MX compared to the EOS3.

Good Grief.
Never owned an SLR that was that modern. The cameras discussed above are all pretty much the same size.
That Canon in your picture must be TWICE the size of a "Classic" SLR

 

[Huss]

One small comment to make about the Zeiss lenses. I don’t know which one you have specifically, but if they are later models without an aperture ring, you will need a late film SLR to use them like the F5 or F6. I don’t know specifically which models, but just a small FYI.

All Nikon F mount Zeiss and Voigtlander lenses have the mechanical/manual aperture ring.

As others have said, because you already have these lenses it makes sense to get a Nikon film camera.

W/ re to F2s, I have the DP1 and DP12 metered heads. The first and the last (most modern). They both needed to be fixed because they gave erratic readings due to age and wear. Sover Wong replaced the ring resistors on them.
So, just because it is a Nikon does not mean it may not have issues. Don't get me wrong, I recommend them just being transparent here.

(I also have the unmetered heads - no issues there!)

 

[narsuitus]

The Nikon F4 is my largest 35mm camera.

The Pentax ME is my smallest 35mm camera.

The ME is smaller than the Olympus OM 35mm cameras.


Pentax ME & Nikon F4 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

 

[Huss]

The Nikon F4 is my largest 35mm camera.

The Pentax ME is my smallest 35mm camera.

The ME is smaller than the Olympus OM 35mm cameras.


Pentax ME & Nikon F4 by Narsuitus, on Flickr

I have both those, and they are my favorite SLRs! (I have other cameras too..)

 

[Autonerd]

already have a couple of manual lenses leftover (Zeiss 100mm ZF and Zeiss 28mm ZF - mistakes from my early days of getting into this hobby when I had a little bit more disposable income than sense) that I could use on the Nikon body.

Haven't read all the replies so I don't know if this has been mentioned, but Nikon lens compatibility is something of a mine field. The lenses may mount but they don't all work and some can actually damage the cameras. I have a Nikkor 50 that works on every Nikkormat/Nikon camera I own (no matrix metering with the N8008s) -- but my 28 will mount but doesn't stop down on any but the old FT2. It's a far cry from my Pentax lenses which fit *and work* on every Pentax SLR I own -- as well as my Ricoh and Sears cameras.

Anyway.

If that glass is worth money, and you don't want to switch to Nikon, you could sell it and buy more lenses.

Nothing wrong with Nikon, I like most of my Nikon cameras just fine and the lenses are great. But I'm also happy with my Pentax and Minolta cameras (and those Minoltas are *killer* bargains with great glass). Olympus is one SLR brand I have never owned or experienced.

Aaron