The fix is called a C.R.I.S. adapter. About $35 from the original manufacturers, or $20 for a Chinese knock off. I have both, they both work fine. They regulate the voltage to down to 1.35v so everything works correctly.
Isn't the voltage of a silver cell different than the voltage of a mercury battery? like, 1.5V vs 1.35V or so. Some meters designed to use mercury batteries are notably inaccurate when used with silver batteries (which in turn can be alleviated by re-calibrating the meter.) Can't remember which camera(s) was/were concerned, but neither Olympus OM nor Nikon if I remember correctly. More like rangefinders from the 70's.
The fix is called a C.R.I.S. adapter. About $35 from the original manufacturers, or $20 for a Chinese knock off. I have both, they both work fine. They regulate the voltage to down to 1.35v so everything works correctly.All the solutions are expensive and not good.
F and F2 bodies are quite a bit heavier and larger than the FM's, especially with a metered finder attached. F3 is closer in size to the FM, but still a few hundred grams heavier. The F-series bodies feel more durable, but the FM-series have been proven over time to be very durable.
My chrome FM was my main hiking & backpacking camera for years and never failed once.
The F bodies have interchangeable finders, faster motor drives and manual mirror lockup capability. The FM's have a vertical-travel shutter and thus a faster flash sync speed; 1/250 for the FM2. Also a top shutter speed of 1/4000 where the F2 and F3 only hit 1/2000, if that matters to you. Also, The F3 shutter is electronically controlled, so only 1/90 and B if your battery dies.
Just because i see it in your picture.... did you experience any kind of Problem or Breakage when using a soft-shutter with your OM bodies.?I've been using Olympus OM bodies and lenses for 45 years, and heartily recommend them. That even includes the bodies that require more frequent change of batteries - my OM-2s has been a warrior since I bought it new, and keeping a couple of extra batteries on hand is easy, and in recent years when I've owned OM-1 or OM-1n bodies, the battery adapters are cheap and easy to use.
Does the size difference between the two lines matter to you? The OM lenses are also usually smaller than their Nikon counterparts.
That being said, if you like the Nikon mount lenses you have, and like the Nikon film bodies available to you, than I wouldn't recommend against them for you. I just wouldn't like them as much for me.
To provide you with context, my current OM kit includes my favorite three lens kit - 24mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2, 85mm f/2 - plus my choice of OM2s, OM2n, OM-G and OM-4T bodies, and a whole bunch of other lenses that I use less frequently.
As far as reliability is concerned, other than a bit of preventative maintenance, my OM lenses and bodies have required a total of one repair in 45 years - a mirror that required re-attachment after the glue failed about 40 years in.
Here is a photo of my OM-2s in 2010, on the occasion of my unloading my very last roll of Kodachrome. It shows just a bit of wear
View attachment 246894
Yes - I keep losing them!Just because i see it in your picture.... did you experience any kind of Problem or Breakage when using a soft-shutter with your OM bodies.?
Thank You
Yeah, i have the same problem....but less so (i think) with my Nikon F2Yes - I keep losing them!
Otherwise no.
At one time, I shot mainly with rangefinders and TLRs. To give me more focal length flexibility, I replaced the 6x6cm TLR camera with a 6x7cm SLR (RB67). If I were in your position, I would consider an RZ67 with built-in light meter.
Any thoughts on what is a good price to pay for an F1,2,3 or a FM2? Prices appear to vary widely.
At the moment the main advantage of the Olympus seems to be size and weight. The Nikon's the build quality. Tell me if I am wrong please.
The FM3a would be the most expensive Nikon film camera besides the F6. I do not think it's worth the price tag.Thanks. I will check out the FM3A. Every bit of this hobby requires so much research.
But if I were to go down the medium format route, you would recommend the Mamiya over the Blads?
Thanks. I will check out the FM3A. Every bit of this hobby requires so much research.
But if I were to go down the medium format route, you would recommend the Mamiya over the Blads?
This pushed me over after I read it -> https://imaging.nikon.com/history/chronicle/history-fm3a/index.htm
I even bought the magazine for it but haven't gottern the featured lens . . .
The K3 focusing screen that came with mine is a split prism that never blacks out regardless of how slow the lens is or if it is stopped down. I first saw this type of screen in my Canon New F1. Unfortunately, in a dark setting, it is near impossible to determine critical focus especially on a wide angle lens!
Any thoughts on what is a good price to pay for an F1,2,3 or a FM2? Prices appear to vary widely.
Wow. Ok. That is a big difference in size. Not sure how i feel about lugging the Mamiya around.
As for the Mamiya 7 ... I suspect a bit out of my price range.
I hope I will not be crucified for saying this on a film forum:
if at some point you will have an interest in also shooting digital, the Nikon route allows to re-use your lenses with a digital body.
Heretic!
Just kidding. You make a very good point! Some here say they hate digital cameras but pretty much everyone here owns one in their cell phone. They probably occasionally use them too!
For the OP, I always loved the size of my old Contax 139. It was very slightly smaller than an OM-1. I also enjoyed my RZ67 and my current 8x10. You get used to what you are shooting. Pick what you like, Nikon or Olympus. It doesn't really matter. Since you all ready own a couple Nikon lenses, I'd say go that route. Plus you can buy a Nikon DSLR later if you want. Digital is great for eBay shots and for sending family snap shots on the web. I also prefer it for shooting sports. Film vs digital is like 35mm vs medium format vs large format film. It's all good in my opinion.
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