Olympus OM1n battery

[Ricardo Miranda]

The f1.4 is good, the f1.8 MIJ is the best.

Optically, you are right Tim.
From a point of view of repairability, no.
The 50/1.8 MIJ contains one group that is crimped together. If fungus develop inside, there is no way to open this group and repair the damage.
Thus the early 50/1.8 6elemants in 6 groups is better.
You'll find the early versions have after the front element a ring that can be unscrew and that's the clue to what version is it.
You can find the schematics for all 5 version of the 50/1.8 on the Dementix site.

 

[AgX]

The MR-9 adapter is not a bridge circuit, it is just a resistor to drop the voltage of the silver cell.

It is not resistor based. It uses a diode.


The seemingly ultimate text by de Gruijter on this whole issue.

http://www.buhla.de/Foto/batt-adapt-US.pdf

 

[calebarchie]

Good thing I have hearing aids - batteries provided free!

 

[Chan Tran]

For the OM-1 I would use the PX-625 alkaline battery. It would work but the meter may not be accurate. If the meter is not accurate then I rather use it without the battery. I wouldn't bother trying to use expensive Wein cell, adapter, hearing aid battery or modify the camera.

 

[Xmas]

For the OM-1 I would use the PX-625 alkaline battery. It would work but the meter may not be accurate. If the meter is not accurate then I rather use it without the battery. I wouldn't bother trying to use expensive Wein cell, adapter, hearing aid battery or modify the camera.

The alkaline cells voltage or internal resistance alters radically in service so the accuracy of the meter is not contant.
The simple cheap solution is the hearing aid cell and o ring.
But you need to check that the CdS cells and the galvo are accurate in bright and dull light, the meter should be better than 1/2 of a stop to another good light meter.
You also need the manual free to down load as the meter stops reading in low light settings but you can still centre the needle! This does not confuse after you work out what is happening.
Any good condition /1.8 is an excellent performer the early /1.8 five group lenses have serials less than 1000000 (or so) so are more difficult to get and are single coated.

 

[wblynch]

I would pick any 50/1.4 over the 1.8 any day. I have several of each (over a dozen 1.8's)

The artistry of the 1.4 and its out of focus rendering with 8 blades rather than 6 makes a huge difference to me.

If you're worried about soft contrast or flare use a polarizing filter and a lens hood.

Actually it's my experience with all OM Zuiko lenses that a hood should be used at all times during the day (unless you want flare). A well placed hand can help when you have no hood handy.

All of the 50/1.4 reviews I read never considered a lens hood.

 

[thuggins]

It is not resistor based. It uses a diode.

A diode is a resistor.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Diode-resistance.php

 

[Les Sarile]

A diode is a resistor.

http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Diode-resistance.php

Technically speaking, a diode does present resistance but that is where the similarities between a diode and a resistor ends. The link you pointed to does point out that a diode has characteristics of a resistor but it does in no way state it is a resistor. For instance a resistor conducts equally in either direction while a diode does not. In this particular application, the diode is a more ideal component to use due to the fixed voltage drop.

Instead, just get an OM3 as it is not battery dependent as the OM1 and uses the newer batteries as well as the best spot metering in the manual camera world . . .

 

[wblynch]

Yes but the OM-3 eats batteries like no tomorrow. (two at a time)

 

[Les Sarile]

Yes but the OM-3 eats batteries like no tomorrow. (two at a time)

There were updated boards for the OMs that don't drain the batteries prematurely. You can test this by using the battery check. If it stops automatically after 30 seconds that means you have the updated boards. Both of my OM3 & OM4 have updated boards.

 

[wiltw]

For the OM-1 I would use the PX-625 alkaline battery. It would work but the meter may not be accurate. If the meter is not accurate then I rather use it without the battery. I wouldn't bother trying to use expensive Wein cell, adapter, hearing aid battery or modify the camera.

OM-1 meter is definitely wrong on alkaline, and it is not a simple 'offset' to a reading. The amount of error depends both upon the voltage of the battery AND also the intensity of the light being measured, So alkaline in an unmodified OM-1 is 'worse than useless'.

 

[wblynch]

There were updated boards for the OMs that don't drain the batteries prematurely. You can test this by using the battery check. If it stops automatically after 30 seconds that means you have the updated boards. Both of my OM3 & OM4 have updated boards.

As do mine but they still eat batteries compared to an OM-1

Besides the OM-3 meter display is very hard to read for my aging eyes and I can still see the OM-1 meter needle.

Simplicity is beauty

 

[AgX]

A diode is a resistor.

A resistor would induce a voltage drop, but the yielded voltage would not be constant when the drain varies.

And just that was the reason not use a resistor, but a diode.

 

[Sean Mac]

Simplicity is beauty

I have a black OM1n that has only ever been a backup body and I'm just getting ready to put it to work.

A wonderful design if you have nice glass for it.

 

[Steve Smith]

As we are in the same country, have a look at a Poundland for a pack of 4 ZA675 batteries.
They are labelled "Kodak".

In my experience, Poundland Kodak branded batteris come pre flattened. It least, the AA cells seem to!


Steve.

 

[Steve Smith]

It is not resistor based. It uses a diode.

And the same type of diode could be wired in series with the battery wire internal for a permanent midification as mercury cells will never be available again.


Steve.

 

[wblynch]

I found out there is a version of the 675 zinc-air ( hearing aid ) batteries intended for cochlear implants. These have way more capacity to last much longer than the HA types. Look for 675P. I'm going to get a small pack and try them out in my OM-1's

 

[Xmas]

I found out there is s version of the 675 zinc-air ( hearing aid ) batteries intended for cochlear implants. These have way more capacity to last much longer than the HA types. Look for 675P. I'm going to get a small pack and try them out in my OM-1's

The Zinc cells have a limited life after removing their seals, they won't expire on usage unless you leave the OM1 meter on all the time without a lens cap.
If you want you could try blocking some of the vent holes, but my ones last 3-5 months so I don't worry.
They can weep green fluid so I don't leave them in camera at end of days shoot.

 

[jlbruyelle]

This is what I use in my OM-1: http://www.weincell.com/
They last a very long time since all it does is power the meter.

Wein celles are Zn-Air batteries so they will lose capacity even if completely unused, as long as they are in contact with air. This is the big difference between Zn-Air and any other battery technology. You can make them last longer in intermittent use by removing them from the camera as long as you don't use it, and plugging the holes with a piece of sticky tape.

 

[baachitraka]

How about one incident reading with an external meter...
-or-
OM-2n/OM-4Ti

OM-2sp is good but many say that they eat batteries...

 

[Rick A]

Wein celles are Zn-Air batteries so they will lose capacity even if completely unused, as long as they are in contact with air. This is the big difference between Zn-Air and any other battery technology. You can make them last longer in intermittent use by removing them from the camera as long as you don't use it, and plugging the holes with a piece of sticky tape.

I've had the same Wein cell in my OM-1 for over three years now, still get accurate meter readings. Had the same cells in my Soligor Spot Sensor meter for going on ten years, never changed them or pulled them out between uses. I figure they're a bargain.