Olympus OM10: advice please?

[Galah]

Hi all,

Over the weekend I found myself an Olympus OM10 at a "junkshop".

It came with a 50/1.8 Zuiko lens (a 80-200/4.5 Hanimex zoom) and a power winder.

Neither the body not the winder was working -ostensibly because the batteries were flat (in the body) and there were no batteries in the winder.

Since I already have several OM Zuiko lenses (and the price was lowish), I thought this could make a "good" second body and was willing to take a chance on everthing working (once new batteries were inserted).

Once home, dusted, and new batteries inserted, everything seemed to be OK -except the selector switch (below the rewind lever) was "flapping" loose in the breeze, although "working".:-(

Is this a common problem and is it fixable?

Any comments/suggestions appreciated.

 

[Excalibur2]

If it's the slider/lever that takes the setting off auto to "b" easily then you have a problem.

 

[Galah]

If it's the slider/lever that takes the setting off auto to "b" easily then you have a problem.

No, its the one on the opposite side, the one that gives you "on", "off", "battery check" and the "delayed release". (It sits under and is concentric with the rewind lever)

 

[Excalibur2]

No, its the one on the opposite side, the one that gives you "on", "off", "battery check" and the "delayed release". (It sits under and is concentric with the rewind lever)

Dumb me you'd think I know the difference from the shutter and rewind lever.....well mine is fairly stiff and has a slight click to on/off postition.

When you pull the rewind lever up, check that the split retaining washer is in place, it's above the chrome washer... the chrome washer seems to be fitted into the selector switch.

 

[John Hermanson]

The defect you mention is common. Probably, metal spring of ZC2085 (which is held on with plastic posts) usually breaks off, making the switch all floppy. My fix is to drill out plastic posts and insert screws with a large flat head. John, www.zuiko.com

 

[Galah]

The defect you mention is common. Probably, metal spring of ZC2085 (which is held on with plastic posts) usually breaks off, making the switch all floppy. My fix is to drill out plastic posts and insert screws with a large flat head. John, www.zuiko.com

Thanks both John and excalibur2 for responding.

Yes, the split washer is in place.

John, thanks very much for the tip. I myself am a bit of a "klutz" at things mechnical, but I will pass on your suggestion to "my" repairman.

Thanks again

 

[Galah]

Great news!

First, thanks to all who made helpful suggestions.

I took my "baby" to the local "camera doctor" and the problem has been fixed: the selector switch operates perfectly with positive clicks and stays in place as it should, the "re-activator" lever (under the shutter release button) now operates and we have new light seals around the rear door. Its all go!

I have already put a roll of film through it, using my latest OM lens (the Zuiko 35-70mm f/3.5~4.5 zoom) and am waiting for the prints to arrive.

 

[Excalibur2]

First, thanks to all who made helpful suggestions.

I took my "baby" to the local "camera doctor" and the problem has been fixed: the selector switch operates perfectly with positive clicks and stays in place as it should, the "re-activator" lever (under the shutter release button) now operates and we have new light seals around the rear door. Its all go!

I have already put a roll of film through it, using my latest OM lens (the Zuiko 35-70mm f/3.5~4.5 zoom) and am waiting for the prints to arrive.

As you have just had it serviced.........without a film, wind the shutter, point camera to something say to get 1/15 sec..and while taking the pic does the shutter speed in the viewfinder drop to 1/8 then 1/4 then back up to 1/15...or pointing the camera at something for 1/250 sec does it drop to 1/125 then backup.....if it doesn't, then mine might have the sticky magnet problem.

 

[Galah]

As you have just had it serviced.........without a film, wind the shutter, point camera to something say to get 1/15 sec..and while taking the pic does the shutter speed in the viewfinder drop to 1/8 then 1/4 then back up to 1/15...or pointing the camera at something for 1/250 sec does it drop to 1/125 then backup.....if it doesn't, then mine might have the sticky magnet problem.

OK, I'll try it tonight & report back asap. I can't say I have noticed this phenomenon as yet.

 

[Galah]

Waddaya know!

As you have just had it serviced.........without a film, wind the shutter, point camera to something say to get 1/15 sec..and while taking the pic does the shutter speed in the viewfinder drop to 1/8 then 1/4 then back up to 1/15...or pointing the camera at something for 1/250 sec does it drop to 1/125 then backup.....if it doesn't, then mine might have the sticky magnet problem.

Well, waddya know! You're right, Excalibur2, the viewfinder reading behaves exactly as you have pointed out (above). I'm amazed I hadn't noticed this before!

However, the negatives seem to come out exposed OK, so it can't be a problem (at least, so far).

 

[RH Designs]

Remember the OM10 has two metering systems, one in the viewfinder which is for displaying exposure information only, and the OTF (off the film) metering system which controls the actual exposure and only starts working once the shutter has been released. If your negs are correctly exposed then the OTF system is working OK. During the actual exposure the mirror is up and so the viewfinder meter can't see anything - hence the change in the displayed exposure.

 

[Excalibur2]

Remember the OM10 has two metering systems, one in the viewfinder which is for displaying exposure information only, and the OTF (off the film) metering system which controls the actual exposure and only starts working once the shutter has been released. If your negs are correctly exposed then the OTF system is working OK. During the actual exposure the mirror is up and so the viewfinder meter can't see anything - hence the change in the displayed exposure.

Well it's just that it doesn't seem to happen with my other makes of cameras.

 

[Excalibur2]

Well, waddya know! You're right, Excalibur2, the viewfinder reading behaves exactly as you have pointed out (above). I'm amazed I hadn't noticed this before!

However, the negatives seem to come out exposed OK, so it can't be a problem (at least, so far).

Well I have the OM20 as well as the OM10, and it moves more than the OM10, but I have never put a film in the OM20 (after the lenses in an auction and got it as an extra) as I've switched to Canon and Konica.

 

[RH Designs]

Well it's just that it doesn't seem to happen with my other makes of cameras.

It won't, because of the way the Olympus OTF system works. Most auto SLRs take a light measurement before the exposure and use that to calculate the time and/or aperture, so the reading doesn't change when you release the shutter.

Olympus auto SLRs measure the light during the exposure and so are able to adjust it if the light level changes during a long exposure, but because viewfinder info is provided by a separate metering cell in the viewfinder, while the mirror is up it cannot provide a reading. Hence the "dip" in the reading during the exposure. Later Olympus auto SLRs, from the OM-2SP and OM-4 onwards, use a semi-silvered mirror and a single metering cell which provides both exposure and viewfinder information.

 

[Excalibur2]

It won't, because of the way the Olympus OTF system works. Most auto SLRs take a light measurement before the exposure and use that to calculate the time and/or aperture, so the reading doesn't change when you release the shutter.

Olympus auto SLRs measure the light during the exposure and so are able to adjust it if the light level changes during a long exposure, but because viewfinder info is provided by a separate metering cell in the viewfinder, while the mirror is up it cannot provide a reading. Hence the "dip" in the reading during the exposure. Later Olympus auto SLRs, from the OM-2SP and OM-4 onwards, use a semi-silvered mirror and a single metering cell which provides both exposure and viewfinder information.

Ah..thanks.

 

[Galah]

It won't, because of the way the Olympus OTF system works. Most auto SLRs take a light measurement before the exposure and use that to calculate the time and/or aperture, so the reading doesn't change when you release the shutter.

Olympus auto SLRs measure the light during the exposure and so are able to adjust it if the light level changes during a long exposure, but because viewfinder info is provided by a separate metering cell in the viewfinder, while the mirror is up it cannot provide a reading. Hence the "dip" in the reading during the exposure. Later Olympus auto SLRs, from the OM-2SP and OM-4 onwards, use a semi-silvered mirror and a single metering cell which provides both exposure and viewfinder information.

Dear RH Designs,

Well, you learn something new every day!

Thanks for this useful piece of information. I must say, without it I would have tended to worry: unnecessarily, as it turns out.

 

[RH Designs]

Well, you learn something new every day!

Thanks for this useful piece of information. I must say, without it I would have tended to worry: unnecessarily, as it turns out.

Dear Galah,

You're welcome . And something else you maybe don't know - the OM10 doesn't even have to be switched on to make a correctly exposed photograph! The "on" switch just enables the v/f meter. If you press the shutter release, the mirror rises and switches on the OTF metering system which then computes the exposure and closes the shutter at the appropriate time.

If you don't already have it I'd recommend getting a Manual Adaptor for your OM10, it gives you more control and is easier to use than the fiddly exposure compensation dial.

 

[John Hermanson]

Behavior is normal for OM-10 (and G, PC, OM-2 etc.) OM-10 meter display you see in teh viewfinder is read off the focus screen which is at a certain brightness when you look at a scene. When you fire the shutter, the mirror goes up, finder gets dark, LED reading goes down. Light is read off the first curtain / film, shtter opens and closes, mirror comes back down, finder gets bright again, LED goes up. Hope this helps. John, servicing OM since 1977.

 

[Galah]

Dear John and Richard,

Thank you both for your input.

Having heard from you about the behaviour of the OM10, I naturally checked out my OM2n, which appears to do the same, as John suggests (above), though not as obviously.

Richard, I do have the Manual Adaptor and do intend to use it because, as you say, EC is rather fiddly on the Auto setting. Its just that I haven't yet got around to it. I will do it with my next film.

Also, its interesting that the camera is designed to operate, even if the selector switch is in the "off" position. This is a great "battery saver" feature. Does this also apply if using the power winder?

Thanks.

 

[RH Designs]

I don't know the answer re the power winder I'm afraid, I've never used the two together.

I found the OM-10's metering rather sensitive to bright skies which is why I got the manual adaptor, to reduce the likelihood of under-exposure. The OM-2n seemed less sensitive so presumably has a more "centre-weighted" metering pattern.

 

[Galah]

I found the OM-10's metering rather sensitive to bright skies which is why I got the manual adaptor, to reduce the likelihood of under-exposure. The OM-2n seemed less sensitive so presumably has a more "centre-weighted" metering pattern.

Yes, I noticed right away that (without EC) the OM10 appears to expose for colour negative film, whilst the OM2n appears to be geared up for colour transparency films. There's about a 1/2 to 2/3ev difference in their responses.

Thanks for your input.

 

[John Hermanson]

Ideally, you should be able to shoot slide film with both OM-2 and 10 and get near identical results. Unfortunately, the OM-10 tends to overexposure, especially on the first frame after the camera has sat for a while. This caused by oil on the magnet. John, servicing OM since 1977.

 

[mjs]

Sorry to interrupt but y'all seem interested in the OM10 and there's one on the South Bend, IN craigslist: http://southbend.craigslist.org/pho/1087178860.html

I don't know anything about Olympus SLR's but you're talking about them so... I have no idea who the seller is and no interest in the sale.

Mike

 

[John Hermanson]

If someone has a 10 that they have questions about or are trying to get to work, I'm happy to help. But if you are looking to buy and are deciding between a 1 and a 10 or a 2n and a 10, the 10 is always second best and IMO should be avoided if you're shooting important work. No offense to people who have them and love them, but I've found that the 10 is just not reliable enough. They are often found dirt cheap and there's a reason for that. John

 

[Doug9345]

If someone has a 10 that they have questions about or are trying to get to work, I'm happy to help. But if you are looking to buy and are deciding between a 1 and a 10 or a 2n and a 10, the 10 is always second best and IMO should be avoided if you're shooting important work. No offense to people who have them and love them, but I've found that the 10 is just not reliable enough. They are often found dirt cheap and there's a reason for that. John

I'll second what John has said. I started out with an OM10 about 20 years ago when a local camera store had and annual sale of some kind and I asked them for a basic 35mm SLR that wasn't too expensive. I bought another one with some lenses I wanted a year or two after that. Around 2000 I discovered ebay. At the same time I decided that I wanted to up grade my camera and started to look at other brands. I made my mind up that I was going to stay with Olympus and in the next couple of years bought an OM 4, 2 OM 1's a OM2sp and an 2n.
After buying the other cameras I haven't used my om10's at all and after setting a few years I don't expect them to work at all. Maybe I'll get them out this week and see. The two cameras I use all the time are the OM4 and my OM 1 that I had John do a CLA on. I it would be very hard for me to have to choose between the two.