Olympus OM1/OM2 with 2 series focus screen and 50 1.2... too much bright?

[aquaman75]

Hello.
In my search for the manual SLR camera with easy focus I get an Olympus OM-1. I bought too the focus screen 1-4 since I like plain screens.
My idea is pair the camera with the ZUIKO 50 F1.2 and the 85 F2.

Now I'm thinking about changing the focus screen for 2-4 but have some doubts.
The meter problems I do not care because I always use a handheld exposure meter.

I have read some comments about these screens (2-4 or 2-13) saying that with very luminous lens as the 50 1.2 produce a lack of contrast in the viewfinder that make more difficult to focus.
I love to hear your opinions on this subject.
2 series Olympus focus screens with OM1 or OM2 and lens with 1.2 or 1.4... What do you think about this?

Thank you very much and like always sorry for my bad english.


Alberto

 

[nsurit]

Alberto, I don't use the 2 series screen on my OM 1, however have them in my OM 2S, 3 and 4. In my opinion, for my eyes, they are great. They are rather expensive when you can find them. You might also look for a Beattie Intense Screen. You may also have an interest in the Olympus OM mailing list which is a great place to get Olympus specific information and also find OM gear that you want/need. You will need to subscribe. http://lists.thomasclausen.net/mailman/listinfo/olympus Bill Barber

 

[Hilo]

I believe the OM2 will correct the different value as a result of the brighter screen. I have an OM1 with Beattie screen and have changed the ASA value to the correct metering. I also use the OM4Ti and this one compensates the differences.

Only one way to find out if focussing becomes easier or harder, is to try. For some the brighter screens do not work. For others, like me, they do. The OM1 with Beattie screen is like going to the cinema versus watching tv. But I am a photographer who values the bright viewfinder over easy focusing. I use the 40/2 lens only on both bodies, with the Beattie screen there's more clarity and brightness than with a 1.4/50 and OM regular screens.

 

[aquaman75]

Thank you very much to you both for your comments.
Very interesting the Olympus mailing list, I registered today.
The problem of the light meter is something that does not worry me because I always use handheld lightmeter (sekonic 358).
Hilo is right that the best way to know what screen works for me better is try them.
I hope to find a 2-4 screen without dying in the attempt ...
My best wishes.


Alberto

 

[albada]

A cheap source of bright focus screens is a junker Canon AE-1 Program (not the AE-1) or Canon T-50. Both contain Canon's later bright screens. Remove the top from the Canon, then tear off the electronics, then pull the prism, and finally pull the focus screen. Carefully handling it by the edges, sand it down to the correct length by rubbing it across sandpaper placed on your workbench, blow off the dust with compressed air, and put it in your OM-1. Viola! A cheap bright screen.

Mark Overton

 

[Xmas]

I'm not sure the late screens will fit the OM1 I think the handling tab is bigger you could nail file one but they are way easy to damage.

I've not noticed the brightness makes a difference even with slow lenses, a bit like silver bullets for wear wolfs.

 

[thuggins]

I've got a Beattie screen in my 4t and don't consider it that much different than the standard screens in my other OM's (mostly 1-13's). OM viewfinders are very bright to begin with. I've had no problem composing or focusing when it was too dark to see the meter.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

I believe the OM2 will correct the different value as a result of the brighter screen. I have an OM1 with Beattie screen and have changed the ASA value to the correct metering. I also use the OM4Ti and this one compensates the differences.

Only one way to find out if focussing becomes easier or harder, is to try. For some the brighter screens do not work. For others, like me, they do. The OM1 with Beattie screen is like going to the cinema versus watching tv. But I am a photographer who values the bright viewfinder over easy focusing. I use the 40/2 lens only on both bodies, with the Beattie screen there's more clarity and brightness than with a 1.4/50 and OM regular screens.

Hi
Just to expand a bit on what you said.
The original ON-2 and -2N will not be affected by different screens when they are on Auto. In Manual a correction has to be made for some screens.
That is due to the fact that the metering cells in Auto are in the bottom of the chamber and don't read from the focusing screen. In Manual, these 2 cameras take their readings from the cells on the prism and so they read from the focusing screen.
This is documented in several manuals and also here: http://esif.world-traveller.org/om-sif.htm

The OM-2SP, -3(Ti) and -4(Ti) all have a single cell in the bottom of the film chamber, so they aren't affected by the focusing screen.
The disadvantage i they also have a semi-silver mirror resulting in a darker viewfinder.
That's why the series 2 of focusing screens were introduced.
But, on my OM-2SP and -4 I don't see much of a difference with the standard 1-13 screen between these and the OM-1 and -2.

 

[darinwc]

I have also tried different screens on my OM's. And it does not seem to make much of a difference. In comparing directly with other cameras, I think the problem may stem from other problems. Perhaps the prism is not coated and reflects some light. Or maybe the inside of the camera under the view port is not well baffled. I have not figured out a solution yet.

 

[Xmas]

There is not a problem with brightness of the screen in that your eye's auto exposure system will control the brightness to be just comfy unless the scene is very bright or very dark depending on the maximum aperture of the lens as well.

If you are not a whipper snapper you need your iris to be small enough that your more limited focus adjustment and depth of field allows a sharp image of the focus aid.

A brighter screen will then help with dept of field by stopping down your iris but you should really get a diopter.

The ground glass and micro prism both need good acuity and sufficient adaption the split image is a little less critical.

Some oldsters migrate to rangefinders instead of SLRs.