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Olympus OM-2n: Shutter sound at higher speeds.

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baachitraka

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In manual mode the shutter seems to work from speeds 1s to 1/60s and I feel the delay between these speeds.
But for speeds from 1/125s to 1/1000s they sound more like 1/60s.

I know something is wrong. May I ask to all of the OM-2n owners here, How do they sound when selecting shutter faster than 1/60s in manual mode and without film?
 
Apologies if you already know this...

On many cameras, from 1/60 to 1/1000 the only thing changing is the slit width; the curtain travel time is the same and the resulting sound is nearly the same.

I suspect this is true of the OM-2n as well.

Trip the shutter while viewing through the back at a blank wall - you should perceive the difference in the amount of light you see.
 
Last edited:
Apologies if you already know this...

On many cameras, from 1/60 to 1/1000 the only thing changing is the slit width; the curtain travel time is the same and the resulting sound is nearly the same.

I suspect this is true of the OM-2n as well.

Trip the shutter while viewing through the back at a blank wall - you should perceive the difference in the amount of light you see.
You may not be able to detect the difference between 1/60 and 1/1000.
It is also difficult to detect capping.
In manual mode the presence or absence of film makes no difference.
The OM2 or 2n will do auto exposure OTF even with the switch in off position provided the speed required is shorter than 1/30. This saves battery life.
The OM10 is similar.
Downloading the user manual is desirable.
 
That's true from speeds 1/60 to 1/1000 in manual mode the slit opening remains the same. I really do not know how things go when I put the film in it.

Yeah I will read the manual one more time.
 
-duplicate post-
 
Th
-duplicate post-
The blinds are on independent rollers.
The first blind runs while the second spring loaded blind is held on an electromaticly released latch.
There should only be a very little difference between 1/60 and 1/1000 in noise.
The fault you suggest might happen but it is unlikely.
At 1/60 latch is released as the first blind gets to the far edge of the gate.
At 1/1000 the release occurs 1/16 of the travel across the gate.
But the difference is less them 1/60 of a second...
 
I will try to test it on bright sunny day with aperture wide-open or speeds faster than 1/60s.

Otherwise, it will go to Derbyshire for CLA. But then I do not really know whether it is possible to fix any electronic camera.
 
Try also this before sending it out for CLA (taken from elsewhere, it addresses a Leica M2, but things are pretty much the same with others):
If you have a digital camera with B mode (long exposures), it will be very easy to perform the following procedure to test your shutter dynamics:

1) Set your digital cam on the back of your M2 (no lens on the M2) so that it can see through the chamber, pointing forward.
2) Make sure not much of high light can enter the space between the 2 cameras.
3) Set the M2 on B mode and lock it with a release cable.
4) take a picture with the digital cam in manual mode through the chamber of the M2 and note the parameters: Aperture and speed
5) the correct exposure obtained with the digital cam gives you the shutter speed you want to set later on the M2.
6) Now prepare to trigger your digital cam on B mode
7) Set your M2 to the previously speed set-up selected for a correct exposure with the digital cam.
8) trigger and maintain your digital cam on B mode and trigger your M2 at the selected speed. Verify that the obtained result is the same as in step 4.
9) repeat the procedure for various speeds at which you want to test your M2.

This sounds a bit complex however when you will do it's very easy. You will be actually using the M2 shutter as the shutter of the digital cam set on B mode.
 
I shot a roll of Orwo UN54+ using Metz 32 CT3 with SCA 321 adapter and got perfectly exposed negatives. This camera seems to work but I have test the faster shutter speeds. OM-1n is my favorite but OM-2n is joy to use too.
 
But then I do not really know whether it is possible to fix any electronic camera.
If the problem isn't electronic, it will be just the same as fixing a purely mechanical camera.
 
I do not know whether OM-2n have an electronic or mechanical governor for timings...

I will test under bright lights on tomorrow. One half of the roll in manual and an another half in auto, possibly with same aperture value.
 
If the problem isn't electronic, it will be just the same as fixing a purely mechanical camera.
If there is a problem...
You need to try a film at 1/60, 1/125, etc to see if there is not a difference.
Or ask for a shutter speed test.
If there is not a difference then ask for quote for repair.
If the quote is more than replacement sell (or donate) for parts.
I sold (or gave away) all my OM2 while they were still working cameras, (for use).
You can still get OMx real cheap.
You can still sell nice OM prime lenses.
 
Above 1/60s you won't hear a noticeable difference on an OM (unlike a Pen). But if you really want to check the speeds run a roll of slide film thru it.
 
It is not just the sound but the slit opening, at-least for my eyes remain the same in manual mode.

I brought the camera to workplace hope I can expose some shots during lunch.
 
I have tested the camera and it seems broken for faster speeds in manual mode.
During the test EV
was 11 and the combination of the speeds,
1/1000 & f/1.4
1/500 & f/2.0
1/250 & f/2.8
1/125 & f/4.0 were over-exposed from 1-4 stops. Since shutter speeds were not changing.

The exposure from speeds
1/60 & f/5.6
1/30 & f/8.0
1/15 & f/11.0
1/8 & f/16.0
yielded identical negatives.
 
Camera repairer Michael from Derbyshire has retired. Said, he is suffering from Parkinson's. :-(
 
I have tested the camera and it seems broken for faster speeds in manual mode.
During the test EV
was 11 and the combination of the speeds,
1/1000 & f/1.4
1/500 & f/2.0
1/250 & f/2.8
1/125 & f/4.0 were over-exposed from 1-4 stops. Since shutter speeds were not changing.

The exposure from speeds
1/60 & f/5.6
1/30 & f/8.0
1/15 & f/11.0
1/8 & f/16.0
yielded identical negatives.
If the problem is a dry solder joint it is a sort of easy fix, cause some of the semi conductor circuitry is static sensitive.
If the fault is a kaput semiconductor then I'd not bother.
I think it is the same latch for 1/15 or 1/125.
Ask a repair person for a quote.
I won't touch any thing later than OM2n myself.
 
If memory serves there are two separate timing mechanisms, one for high speed and another for low speed (but I may have my OM's mixed up). From your description it seems you have been testing in manual mode. Have you tried auto?
 
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